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alanmin4304

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Everything posted by alanmin4304

  1. A fire extinguisher can have contaminants that will not adversely affect a fire but food grade would need to have no contaminants that would adversely affect your beer. The other difference would probably be cost. Ask the gas suppliers what contaminants there might be or use food grade and be safe.
  2. There are probably a number of bacteria that can cause the problem and like verious types of algae would be all over the place and realy only cause problems when things get out of balance.
  3. They are prolific and could have over 1000 but the chances are that not many will survive unless you take special precautions. Easy to breed ----not so easy to rear.
  4. If you are intending to breed them to sell as mature males you will need to seperate them so that they can see each other and flash their fins as this encourages good fin development. Otherwise you sell them for a lot less as unsexed. I made tanks within tanks from glass with stainless steel mesh on the bottom and divided into sections about 75mm square and 3/4 the depth of the main tank. Lift and replace the container once a day and get an instant water change. Siphon the gunge off the bottom daily. They respond well to good food and lots of water changes. You will need lots of tanks as they grow at different rates and are best seperated by size or you end up with only a few pretty average fish.
  5. I am not familiar with the design of the aquarium you have but the amount of light required will depend on a number of factors including the type of light, water depth and clarity. Four hours seams way too little---I have lights on 16-17 hours/day (10 - 12 hours would be about normal I would think). Algae needs nutrient and eventually the plants will use a lot of the nutrient and starve the algae. In the mean time you should do larger and more frequent water changes to reduce nutrient. I do 50 to 60% water changes in well established, heavily planted tanks. Cycling is where the waste products from your fish are converted to other compounds by bacteria and eventually removed by plants or water changes. Some of the compounds formed are toxic to fish and may be killing yours. Eventually the bacteria will grow to establish a balancece and all should be sweet. Only feed what the fish can eat in 5 minutes---no more as this creates nutrient. Good luck.
  6. I would chuck the contents, clean with salt paste and let stand for an hour then rinse in clean water and stand in the sun till dry then start again. Killies are worth it. You might be best to start with A.gardneri or something a bit hardier as the nothos tend to get velvet and it is more likely to crop up with a change of conditions. You see your results a bit quicker also.
  7. I have bred both in an 18x9x9 inch tank (450x225x225mm). I used marbles in a bare tank. They are cheap at the $2 shop but my advice is to make sure the females are well conditioned and full of roe first. It is just as easy to rear 1000 fry as 100 but pays the power bill better.
  8. It is a common soil bacteria and imported fish have usually been kept in ponds. The spa pool problem was caused in a pub by people walking accross a lawn to get to the spa pool and not chlorinating properly--- bacteria soup. That is why it often crops up in goldfish.
  9. Don't worry about them as it is not that many years since every pet shop down here was selling live tubifex worms and we were getting more selling them to the shops than the farmers were getting for prime steak.
  10. Tiger barbs will breed that way also.
  11. They will breed OK at that size. I used to seperate males and females and condition them up till the females are obviously fat with roe before spawning and you should get heaps of fry.
  12. I have lots of tanks with no airstones and no filters and the killies in them are OK. It is about balance. You either have bacteria putting the nitrogen through the cycle or you remove it with water changes. I feed heavily and remove the excess and water change about weekly.
  13. If it is bacterial furan would be cheaper and easier. I tried to get antibiotics from a vet last week and got a definate no. If it is viral try prayer. Tha bacteria is common in the soil but blooms in a heated tank--- also blooms in a spa pool if not managed properly and caused a few rotton armpits down here a few years back.
  14. It was common in goldfish a few years back and I had a friend who was a microbiologist culture the bacteria. Can't find the notes or remember the bacteria but the cure I used was amoxyl. Most antibiotics are used at 1/100000 or 10ppm but amoxyl can be used at a few times more than that and is relatively cheap as antibiotics go, but still prescription only meds.
  15. I found I needed to change the img to lower case.
  16. I have a 1200mm tank divided into 6 permanent compartments--like 6 tanks joined into one. Heated from underneath with a heat pad, no air, no filters. The temperature is controlled by the depth of water.
  17. I use synthetic wool threaded through a small fishing net float and hanging out both ends---easy to sterilize.
  18. Sounds like tubifex worms. The fish should enjoy eating them.
  19. I would have to agree with that. I learn something every day.
  20. I don't think it will get rid of ammonia.
  21. Just realised you are in the US. They may be using ammonia and chlorine to manufacture chloramine as a disinfectant and for some reason the ammonia only is in the system (run out of chlorine?)
  22. I know of no reason to add ammonia to a water supply---sounds a bit strange.
  23. I have never done it but you probably could use riccia and atatch it with fine netting. It should grow through and hide the netting after a while. You may end up like me and have your driftwood completely hidden by java fern or similar.
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