2fishy Posted May 14, 2006 Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 I heard that u should add a "cichlid" salt (its manufactured by Seachem), is this necessary? and also I heard u can use marine salt instead of the seachem? Is this true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiden Posted May 14, 2006 Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 It's probably only necessary if your water parameters arent quite where they should be I believe, somebody correct me if I am wrong. But you can make your own "african rift lake salt". Have a look at this site: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/buffer_recipe.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fishy Posted May 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 Thanks heaps 4 that, ive copied it for when im ready to set my tank up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted May 14, 2006 Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 Well my Africans don't have anything added to their water and seem fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herefishiefishie Posted May 14, 2006 Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 Nope you don't have to. The most important thing is carbonate hardness. This will keep your ph steady, which is the most importan thing. All depends on what the water is that comes out of your tap.eg; Your water may come out of the tap at a 7.5ph, but if the water is soft{low carbonate hardness} then over a period of a week or 2 the ph will drop, and once it starts its a dramatic decrease; therefore harming your cichlids. Just test what the water is out of the tap, or see if your council or lfs have any idea. Can use a littl bi-carb soda, limestone rock or similar as a buffer. Can use rock salt, but don't need much at all. If you do want to raise the ph, only raise in small amounts & always do this with a water change. eg;30grams bi carb soda per 100litres of "new" water. Frenchy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted May 14, 2006 Report Share Posted May 14, 2006 My fish were bred in a pH of 7.0 - 7.2 so don't know their pH is supposed to be higher. Our tap water is 7.0 and I have limestone rocks in the tank which bring it up to about 7.4 max over time. When I do a water change it drops to 7.0 again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herefishiefishie Posted May 16, 2006 Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 Here is a link to Carbonate hardness. A very good read.Remeber there are 2 types of hardness. ph is a measure of ions. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/hardness.php Here is an answer I gave when someone asked about ph readings for cichlids, taken from an Ad Konings book. What type of cichlids? They are all different... Tanganyika, lake itself is 8.6-9.5, keep them in tanks at. 7.8-9.5 temp 23-27. Temp can be lethal over 29 degrees. Malawi, lake itself 8.3, keep them anywhere from 7.0-8.5. 23-28 degrees, lethal over 32. Victorians, lake varies alot in parts, tank 6.9-9.0. Carbonate hardness is lower in the lake compared to the other 2 rift lakes to 2-8dGH African, Riverines vary, 7.0-7.5 is good. Central Americans are above nuetral, 7+ & dGH 5+ South Americans can vary to where hey are from, Uaru's do well at 5.5-6 Oscars natural habitat is around 6.5 Rivulatus, acara's... <7.5 Eartheaters 6.5-7.5 Dwarfs range from 6.5-7.5 depending on type too Discus5.8-6.8 All guide lines, the most important thing is stable ph. Frenchy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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