Betta's Gouramie's and freinds

[Pegasus]

This untouched section was tooooo much to resist.

Where are all you Gourami and Betta lovers.

This section is just waiting for you

Cmon people, post your stories and probs here.

[Ira]

I've got a betta! He's blue and seems to be acting like an old man, how long do they live, anyway? Seems to be living happily with my cichlids even though they all outweigh him by at least 20 times...Except for the little juvenile blue ram.

[Pegasus]

Hi Ira,

Not too sure how long the Betta's live, but I've had them for three years or so, perhaps someone else might have more info.

Could be your "Old Fella" is a little intimidated by his big tank mates, or perhaps needs a bit of female company in a seperate tank where they might provide you with some fry

Does he look healthy, and does he get a chance at the food?

[Ira]

AUGH! It wanted me to log in after I hit the submit button and didn't post my message. Gotta see if I can remember what I typed.

He was originally in a tank full of tetras. When we first got him he was quite active, he'd swim up and down the tank about 3 feet, it's a tall hex. A few months ago he started just hanging around at the top. The PH in the tank had gotten up nearly to 8 so I thought maybe he didn't like it and put him into the tank with the cichlids because its PH is around 7. They must be pretty unintimidating, they're geophaguses, severums, electric blue and yellows, silver sharks...Even the tiny little juvenile blue ram isn't intimidated. He seems to be getting enough to eat and has gotten more active in that tank. BUt he still just hangs around the top. I did notice yesterday that he swam an inch or so below the surface and then bobbed back up. Don't know if that was the current, intentional or if he's got something like a swim bladder problem.

I did try to breed him. Unfortunately we didn't get any eggs, they tried though. Don't know if the female was too old or what.

[Caryl]

My books say Bettas live about 2 years but if Pegasus has kept them for longer then obviously the books were wrong! Longevity is affected by a lot of factors from water conditions to genetics so stating how long a fish may live with any accuracy can be pretty difficult (and hit and miss). Perhaps if enough people send a post stating how old their Bettas were when they finally died, we can get an average overall

They like a pH of around 6.8 - 7.0.

Most Bettas I have observed don't move around much, they just hang around at the surface (that's why I prefer the Africans as they are always on the move). They need to get extra oxygen from the air as they are labyrinth fish so perhaps they don't like the depth of the tank. Their natural habitat water level is not very deep.

[Pegasus]

You are quite right Caryl, my books also say they only live for two years, but they also state that the expected life of these fish is greatly extended in cooler climates than Siam.

I came across another type of Betta that I had no knowledge of. It's name is B.brederi (Myers) in my book, and it is a mouth brooder, or breeder as it says in the book. Very similar to the splendens, but with completely different nesting habits It apparently collects the eggs in a nook in its anal fin. Interesting reading.

Regards

Bill (Pegasus)

[Pegasus]

Moved this post into the relevant section in the hope it may inspire members to tell us about their Gouramies or Bettas or other Anabantoids.

Dark made the original enquiry.

Success with Gouramies (and Bettas) is dependent on breeding condition. If you start with poorly conditioned fish, you'll get poor results. I've seen males almost kill the female after spawning, yet others that were perfectly happy being left together, so situations may vary.

Before even considering breeding, the female should be in top nick, and in perfect health. Feed her and the male up on live foods for a while. I personally separate the pair using a glass divider, allowing them to "see" but not "touch" each other.

The male will be just about going crazy by now, especially if the female is full of roe.

You sex them by their dorsal fin, the females is rounded at the end, and the males pointed slightly. Raise the temperature to 80 degrees and this will spur them on.

He'll begin to build a nest of bubbles on the surface, usually attached to the corner, or a surface plant, or even an internal filter.

The little Dwarf Gourami (Colisa Lalia) will use bits of plants, or anything that's not fastened down in his nest building. He'll even rip a plant to bits or uproot it if he has to. Great fun, and few are more colourful at breeding time. Great little fish, and prolific breeders, but if anything gets in his way at breeding time, they are in for a scrap, and chances are he'll win.

Back to the Moonlights. The male will colour up with a pearl type sheen with a sort of bluey cast to it and become quite agitated, but keep them apart until the female is at her prime. Putting them together too soon is a big mistake, and will give you poor results, or a dead fish.

When you feel she is ready, (absolutely bursting with roe) release her early in the morning if possible so that you can watch the events, it's great fun, and a sheer rush to watch. Be very quiet, and don't disturb them, no glass tapping and such. He will chase her around the tank, (Best on their own by the way, as the male will probably fight even the most aggressive fish if it gets in his way) and will wrap his body fully about her as he squeezes the eggs from her, but before they (the eggs) sink to the bottom he will rush around and gather them up in his mouth, then rush to the nest and spit them into it. The nest may grow to a couple of inches above the surface.

Just a note. There's no need to clear the tank or anything, (except other fish) best to leave it as is so they don't get upset. Plus it leaves somewhere for the female to hide when it's all over.

He'll then chase her once more, and repeat his death roll as they used to call it.

This also happens with the Betta Splendens (Siamese Fighters) so it may be useful.

He will do this several times until the female is fully depleted, so watch her carefully, and him, for he may, or may not attack her after her depletion with a violence you wouldn't believe, so take care, and if in doubt, shift her or separate them once more.

The male at this time is very possessive, so don't disrupt him in any way. She needs rest, and a good feed of white worm or other live food to get her back to health quickly, it takes a great deal out of her. The male may refuse food for a while, so don't overfeed hoping he will eat what you put in the tank. Use live foods if possible as he will most likely devour these. Use a floating feeder and keep an eye on it to see if he's eating. If not, remove it.

Meanwhile, the male will tend the nest, and he'll do this till the eggs begin to hatch. He'll also consume any that are bad, if he's a good dad . If not, he could just eat them, but don't prematurely move him out, he knows what he's doing.

Let's just linger here a moment. He will eat them if he feels threatened, or if he feels they are a bad clutch, or if you didn't feed him up enough before the whole thing began. Usually the male Gouramies are good fathers, so don't upset him. If you have children, drape a sheet over the front of the tank to keep him from being disturbed. No shocks or bangs, doors slamming etc, as these may cause problems.

Now, BEFORE the eggs hatch out completely, lower the level of the water slowly to about seven or eight inches. (Bettas, I suggest 4") Do it gradually so you don't break the nest up too much. The reason you are doing this is that the Gourami and the Bettas are Anabantids, which in simple terms means they breath surface air. The fry once hatched have to take that first gulp of air, which must be warm, so keep the hood closed. Another important factor with these fish types is that the surface of the water must be scum free, and a good idea is to drag a piece of paper over the surface once or twice a week. This will keep it crystal clear, and ideal for your fish. The fry can't break this scum if it's present, so check it daily while the fry are small.

Once the eggs hatch, his job is done, so move him out, but leave the fry if possible where they are. The fry are really fragile, and very tiny, and need Infusoria, but not right away. This is a big mistake hobbyist make in thinking they need food right away, they don't.

The egg sac they broke out of will sustain them for a while, so keep a watch, and eventually you will see the glass smothered in fry. (about 48hrs) Now is the time to feed.

Don't ruin your efforts, (or the fishes) by overfeeding. They need very little at first, so feed sparingly, and only Infusoria until they are big enough for BBS, (Baby Brine Shrimp) It is hoped you prepared for this big event by arranging for the right foods.

If looked after, they grow quickly, and just look like any other fry, and don't have the long thin protrusions.

Not much more I can say, (As if this isn't enough already)

While your waiting for all this to happen you could be writing a post for this board. We need new posts and need to hear what members are doing with their fish.

So, to finish up. Be prepared with infusoria, baby brine shrimp, micro worms, you'll need them as you could have several hundred babies to feed.

Watch the temperature, and don't overfeed, and you should do well. Any probs, contact the board and I or someone will get back to you ASAP.

Best of luck.

Bill (Pegasus)

[*Virgil]

Good Post Bill

Ive never done any work with Gouramies. You've inspired me. I'll have to go shopping sometime soon.

Virgil

[Pegasus]

Thanks Virgil, but before you start we desperately need help in the quiz Real hard one this time