beachy Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 Hey all, another question for yas. From what i can gather, reading through all of the previous topics, it's a good idea to use carbon and phosphate remover. How much of each would i have to use for my tank?, prob around 120 ltrs, and how often to replace them? Also do yas think it would be a good idea to use a canister filter, without any media, just to give me a place to put the carbon and phos? or can anyone recommend another way besides just having it in the tank? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 Well you'll get different opinions on this. But here is mine. I don't use either. I've never used phosphate remover, mainly because i've never had a problem with phosphate, that i've needed to resort to putting iron in my tank. You should be careful putting iron in your tank, It causes a lot of interesting things to happen. I use to use carbon occasionally, but have stopped completely now. I use UV instead, it's much more effective in my opinion ( http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/uv-why ... 10335.html ). Carbon is a source of phosphate, even the ones which specify they are low phosphate, still contain phosphate, they just weren't washed in phosphoric acid like it usually is. BUT if you are going to use phosphate remover, then I recommend running carbon straight after it. It helps to reduce some of the not so desirable effects of iron based P removers. If you keep your tank clean, and have a decent skimmer, there is no reason why you need to run either carbon or phosphate remover. Layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachy Posted February 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 Thanks Layton, very helpfull. Are you using tap water? or going to the beach for yours? At the moment i have tap water with instant ocean, but im going to check out a few of the beaches around here and use sea water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 A cannister is excellent for carbon. It will do also for phosphate remover, but you will get more life out of the phosphate remover if you run it in a reactor, such as a Red Sea Phosphate Reactor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 I use ASW. Mainly because NSW is unpredictable, you never really know what your getting. Being in Christchurch most just use tap water, as it is not chlorinate, flouridated, or treated in any way, it's low in phosphate, nitrate, and hasn't caused me any problems. Being in Auckland, i would not recommend using tap water. You need RO/DI, otherwise you are likely to have a multitude of algae problems. Layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachy Posted February 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 Sounds good, nsw is free too How long would phos remover last in a canister? if i have to keep taking the canister apart all the time maybe i should look into a reactor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 How long the phosphate resin lasts depends entirely on how much phosphate is in your system. Some people with clean tanks have some resin & only change it each 6 months or so. But often a person will start using it because they have a phosphate problem, and the resin will need changing every few days until the phosphate is removed down to acceptable levels. If you've been using tap water, and especially if your skimmer is not one of the best, it is very likely your phosphate will be high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 How long the phosphate resin lasts depends entirely on how much phosphate is in your system. Some people with clean tanks have some resin & only change it each 6 months or so. But often a person will start using it because they have a phosphate problem, and the resin will need changing every few days until the phosphate is removed down to acceptable levels. If you've been using tap water, and especially if your skimmer is not one of the best, it is very likely your phosphate will be high. I did a test on my tap water twice on different day and on different tap using SALIFERT PO4 test kit and it turned out there are no phosphate. I filtered my water with those tap water filter with a carbon filter cartridge and after testing it. It contains some traces of phosphate. I suspect the carbon releases PO4 in that filter cartridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachy Posted February 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 If you've been using tap water, and especially if your skimmer is not one of the best, it is very likely your phosphate will be high. Yea i only used tap water cause my lfs recommended it, but after talking to you guys i found out nsw is ok(well prob better than ak tap water). So as soon as my nitrites drop i will go to piha and fill a couple of 20ltr containers, and do a descent water change. I might go out and get a phos test kit. When i top up my tank with fresh water, is it ok to use bottled water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warick hearn Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 Hi Beechy...I wouldn't use tap water in aucland for your water changes or top ups....if you dont have a RO or DI unit go to the supermarket and get (Pure Due) water....its about $6-00 for 10 litres its been through DI/RO and is totally safe for a reef system....I use it for my top up water supply......And the containers are perfect for collecting NSW in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachy Posted February 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 Thanks Warick, i thought that bottled water would be ok, i think i have seen the big containers at the super market. My tank isnt massive so its prob gonna be not to bad cost wise, Are R/O units expensive? i will do a google on D/I not to sure what that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warick hearn Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 cool......dont use mineral water it contains to many minerals that your tank doesnt need....(pure dew) is the best.......it cost me about $24 a week....ive been using it for a year with my reef....no problems....worth it not to have problems with your tank....lol....DI units are costly but Im saving up to get one later this year.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachy Posted February 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 Thanks Warick, i will check it out next time i go shopping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 Speed, a salifert kit does not go down far enough to always detect Po4 in tapwater, but trust me , Po4 is in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie extreme Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 it cost me about $24 a week....ive been using it for a year with my reef warick buy a RO/DI unit it will be a lot cheaper in the long run. also looking at your useage you would have paid it off by now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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