chimera Posted January 24, 2006 Report Share Posted January 24, 2006 Well keeping in line with the other posts thus far, I might as well start a new thread for the tank upgrade. As Layton is doing, Im looking at front-back depth moreso than any other upgrade aspect to give it more realism as opposed to 'just another tank'. The current tank is 1500x600x600 (540 litres) and the new tank Im looking at is 1800x1000x650 (1,170 litres) so a little over double in size. The tank will still be an in-wall tank. Aquascaping will be done with more of a '3d effect' - in other words some rocks in the foreground will hide those in the background so viewing from different angles will give different views. This should add to the sense of realism. I have all the equipment now to run a larger tank without any upgrades - except for the obvious - lighting and potentially a couple more pumps for water movement. I am looking at low-iron for the front piece to give better clarity. I also have a few other ideas up my sleeve and a few 'borrowed' from Steve Weasts tank. Any ideas welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted January 24, 2006 Report Share Posted January 24, 2006 Looks like it's the season for upgrades. It'll be good to get some tips from your design and planning as I go too. Layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Holiday Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Remember this Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2004 1:46 am Post subject: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ha ha haaaa! i'll make sure i monitor them when it goes in i got my new tank today. 1500mm x 600mm x 600mm approx 540 litres(5'x2'x2' or 140 gallons) Shes a beauty, all crystal clear glass waiting for a mass algae buildup to ruin her complexion All the holes i had drilled are in the perfect place and the 35mm holes are spot on for the fittings i have. my only concern is with the overflow which was built smaller than I thought so adding the durso will be slightly more difficult, woops gotta build a temporary stand at some stage for a temporary tank and transfer all fish corals etc then move my current 4 foot (320 litre) out. of course this is after i have finished plumbing up the sump room (which shouldnt take long) and plumbing up and testing the closed loops in the new tank. will post a pic of plubming stages for the new tank for those interested in the placing of the loops (which i carefully calculated by modelling the tank out of cardboard boxes ) Man it seemed like it was yesterday, I'm ecited to see how this upgrade comes along :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted January 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 I dont know about you, but i'll be building/assembling mine entirely in the garage first. that sort of includes plumbing because I want to use as many parts from the existing tank as possible (which i cant take apart quite yet!) im in no major hurry to get it installed either as i have limited budget, but also dont mind taking my time because (other than wanting to do it right) i still want to let my existing tank further develop. there will be plenty of additional features (both tank and environment related) for the new setup. the first stage is strengthening and waterproofing (sealing) the floor. the walls in the room are to be marine ply (costly stuff) and the sealent will go an inch or so up the walls. the centre of the floor will have a drain back to the sump incase of any major leak (even though this has not happened yet, EVERYTHING will be covered this time! dont want to take any chances with the amount of money i've spent rennovating the house!) as mentioned in my other thread, the room will also be temperature controlled kicking in 'exhaust' fans should the ambient temperature rise too high. as mentioned, i've taken some ideas from steve weasts tank. for example, there will be gaps between rockwork and side of the tank for easier cleaning, the lights will purposely be kept away from the sides (and more so) from the back to darken those areas giving a sense that the tank continues further than it's physical size limitation, there will be a piece of (removeable) black perspex that slides down the back of the tank about 30mm off the glass (although there will be further design in this to incorporate/stealth the closed loop). Additionally, I will be designing the closed loop and rockwork together so that the rockwork hides the outlets. The closed loop system under the reef racks will be better than you have ever seen - top secret design for now, to be honest i should go buy shares in mico's... All in all, it will be a mind-blowing improvement from the current tank. The next few months will be tank design. The biggest area of concentration will be around testing the dynamics of water flow, optimising/matching pipe size and pumps, designing the lighting hood, and aquascaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Additionally, I will be designing the closed loop and rockwork together so that the rockwork hides the outlets. The closed loop system under the reef racks will be better than you have ever seen - top secret design for now, to be honest i should go buy shares in mico's... This is an area I will be devoting a LOT of time to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feelers Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Chimera for aquascaping have you considered making your own base rock? From my small experience with diy rock, it would be perfect for tayloring an aquascape. I was thinking it would be good for building a base structure, perhaps raised off the ground so that detrius could be blown out. Then just stick real live rock over it. I had another idea that I would like to try on my reef tank (the one thats many years away) , I loved the look of crackers cube. I was thinking of having the bottom of the tank below the viewing area, maybe by 50cm, perhaps more. This would allow a BB, and you wouldnt have to worry about plumbing/pumps ect being seen(so you can blow the crud away) , and I think rock dissappearing into the bottom would look real cool. Kinda like a spire coming out of the gloom. Perhaps the walls below the line could be painted or something, whilst incorporated into the stand. (Forgive my crappy drawing ) I dont know how practical it would be though. Oh, and go easy on me 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetskisteve Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 the centre of the floor will have a drain back to the sump MMM unsure if I'd want that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianemone Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 what you dont want dust bunnies in your sump if you spill lots of water?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted January 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 MMM unsure if I'd want that ...running past a wool filter before re-entering the sump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 We have done this with Suphews tank, maybee he will post some pics, when I saw it in the weekend it was looking pretty good. Chimera - 650 is too shallow, go 900+. Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fay Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 You will need a snorkle at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slappers Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 THATS DEEP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Snorkels are cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted January 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 yeah maybe more, 750 perhaps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 750? Honestly mine is 730 and its too shallow. Especially for an in-wall where you can have perminat ladder access to the tank anyway. Remember that tank you put in last year and now its too small? Trust me, you will not regret the extra depth. Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 PLan on having permanent ladder access to the bottom of the tank? THAT'S the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted January 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 not so sure on the depth at 1m, 750 perhaps. i'll need to design it in, as strange as it sounds, cardboard cutouts first to at least get a feel for the dimensions. other than that, it means more intense lighting, for example for keeping anything that sits on the substrate like various clams etc. if i had it my way (or rather had the money), i'd be doing that kuwait tank on laytons thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 if i had it my way (or rather had the money), i'd be doing that kuwait tank on laytons thread You'd have to strike oil first . Better start drilling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 ...running past a wool filter before re-entering the sump Personally, Id run it through Carbon rather than wool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted January 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 in the unlikely event of a major leak, water passes through the hole in the floor... running past a wool filter before re-entering the sump... the wool filter used primarily to remove any dust accumulated on the way down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Yeah trap flys and toe nails things like that. I hope you NEVER have to change that filter wool. pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brianemone Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 mmmmm toe nails, are they high in phosphate??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetskisteve Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Chim come over on the weekend & I'll let you work on the Taka tank (765 deep) just maintenence is a pain in the A#$ Killing aptasia pefect example...cant reach the B$%% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 JetSkiSteve - Deeper, some of us don't need to have our hands in the tank every second day. I don't think i've had my hands in the tank since November. D E E P E R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted January 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2006 jetskisteve, some of us are taller than others with longer arms - there are definately advantages to being just under 6' 3" pies, even though arms dont end up in the tank often, there are times that pruning is required where long nose pliers dont reach or just wont cut it (excuse the pun) i think 750 will be my maximum, may still stick to 700. it may look disproportionate being any deeper, if I take into consideration the size of the hole in the wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.