panda Posted November 25, 2005 Report Share Posted November 25, 2005 Hi all, I'm new here and not a native English speaker so excuse my English. I have a new tank, dimensions: (100cmL, 60cmW, 50cmH) . It has a back sump (is that how you write it?).in the rear 20cm. the whole aquarium is made out of 6mm glass. I found recently that the aquarium's front side is concave. I guess it's not a good sign.. I can I brace it so it will hold? I already have side top braces (one 5cm and other 7cm) but they are a little bit loose. Since the tank is second hand I guess it was ok then and now the braces are loose and this is why I have the concave front side. The top also has a brace to the length of the tank. 88cm long, 2 cm wide but it is chipped and cracked. Its 88cm because it supposed to hold togater with the side braces (100 - 7 - 5 = 88 ) . should I repair/replace the braces? Should I add a center brace to the width of the aquarium (60 cm) ? Do I need any brace to the length of the aquarium? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 25, 2005 Report Share Posted November 25, 2005 If it is bowed I think it would be better braced. People have different preferences but mine would be to brace the top with a 10mm strap around the top edge. If you drop it 10mm below the top and slope it slightly downward, it can support a lid. I leave the long brace about 10mm short each end to get heater wires etc down. I think this is a better way to brace as I have had to repair a number of tanks with a strap accross the top which has broken. There is a stress point where the edge of the strap meets the front and back and there is where they often break. Your English is good, just stay off the bamboo shoots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted November 25, 2005 Report Share Posted November 25, 2005 Looks like the two Alan's are going to be the first to hit you. Empty the tank, you say all the braces are looking a bit weary. Then get two pieces of glass, 50mm wide, one full length, (front) and one 100mm shorter,(for the back), these are glued onto the top edge but down inside the tank, level with the top edge. These will stop any bowing. Then replace the end braces if damaged and glue them onto the top of the tank, and those first braces.leave for several days for the glue to cure before refilling. Warning Make sure that ALL the old silicon is removed before gluing commences. Just reread your post to see if I'd missed anything. One thing is concerning me is the fact that you say the "front" of the tank is bowed. Is that for the full height?? If so, I'd definately strip the tank down completely, and when rebuilding it. Put a strip along the base on the bottom against the back and front pane as well as the other suggestions. Alan NZKA 104 Have adequate ventilation as inhalation of the fumes of the silicon is detrimental to the health. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panda Posted November 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 Thank you Alans. First of all, I have to double check if it bowed all the way down or only on the top (I'm away from my tank for the weekend). Anyway I don’t think I can strip the whole tank and redo it, just don't have the time. If it is very risky I might just get a new one. how risky it is? The rear is a sump which has 4 "chambers" so I think it is some kind of support for the back side. Its the front I'm worrying about. I understand from your suggestions that I should get a 5cm wide strip that will run along the length of the tank (100cm). when the 5cm are parallel to the "water surface". and that it should be glues to the front side rather then being glues on top of it. Is this correct? I am tring in any way to avoid braces to the length of the tank! is it possible to have a center top brace going from the back to the front instead (without any "length" braces) ? Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 It is possible but see my previous posting. The bow will be mainly at the top because that is where it has least support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 Yes Panda it is. I was once told by an aquarium manufacturer that the amount of bracing should be equivalent to one third of the surface area. So as yours is 1000 long, that would be a 100mm brace at each end, and a 140mm for the centre. To give more glue surface area where the centre brace meets the front and back. Cut two pieces 140 (width of brace) and 25mm wide. This is glued to the underside of the top brace and pushed hard out to the front and back panes, of course with glue in the meeting points. This increases the joint's strength dramatically, and is a helluva job to undo if you ever have to. If you are concerned about the appearance of the front of the tank, it can be disguised with a strip of 50mm ductape, black, this will also hide the waterline which is always a plus. Alan NZKA 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panda Posted November 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 Well.. it's true, the reason I don't want any longitude braces is the appearence of the tank. I think it's ugly Let's see if I got it straight, If I want to avoid the longitude braces I have to replace current cross braces which are 50mm and 70mm to bigger ones (100mm on each side) and add another 140mm cross brace on the middle? And my other option is to leave the 70mm and 50mm cross braces (re-glue them tightly because it's weary). and to add a 800mm long, 50mm wide longitude brace on the front which will be glued to the cross braces? Did I mixed it all up? :roll: thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 Sounds about right.. And if it were me... I would also add another longtitude brace across the back also. Where are you from BTW. You can add your location in your profile. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 You are correct about the longitudinal braces looking ugly but they are not as ugly as all that water on your lounge room floor. When I set up tanks there are two main things I do, because they both anoy me. 1 Cover the top water leval, with a lid if possible or tape as suggested. 2 Put the tank low enough so that people look down to it rather than looking up to it and seeing through the water to the floating debri and lights. I have a preference for longitudinal braces as they are far stronger and they can easily be hidden, as well as providing support for a cover. There are a lot of forces in an aquarium which people sometimes forget about, just like there is on the floor it is standing on (but we dont want to go there again) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 Panda said Let's see if I got it straight, If I want to avoid the longitude braces I have to replace current cross braces which are 50mm and 70mm to bigger ones (100mm on each side) and add another 140mm cross brace on the middle? It is obvious that you don't want longitudinal braces. Front or back. So go for what you have quoted above. Clean the fillet off the front on the bottom, and put on the longitudinal brace, 50mm minimum along the front of the base. That'll take care of the bottom of the front from springing. Alan NZKA 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 Alan said: Then get two pieces of glass, 50mm wide, one full length, (front) and one 100mm shorter,(for the back), these are glued onto the top edge but down inside the tank, level with the top edge. Then: It is obvious that you don't want longitudinal braces. Front or back. Sorry... but I'm a little confused here :oops: Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 I understand tha feeling Bill. I forget when it happened last tho. The first quote of mine was for doing the L. braces TOP and BOTTOM. The next quote is just to reinforce the bottom front edge, with cross braces on top, therefore leaving the top free of the L braces. How's that ol'fella. Alan NZKA 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panda Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 ok guys, I decided to go for a longitude top brace and I'm keeping my old cross braces. I'll just cut it of the tank and glue it again. Here is a bunch of questions: what is the best way to take out the braces? should the L. brace be with the same thickness of the rest of the tank (6mm) ? Is [800mm Length, 60mm wide] good enough for the L brace? How high can I place it on the front side? Do I need bottom brace? Many Thanks. You have great forums here.. I'm from Israel.. but I'm not such a bad guy.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panda Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 Sorry.. posted twice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 Here is a bunch of questions: what is the best way to take out the braces? should the L. brace be with the same thickness of the rest of the tank (6mm) ? Is [800mm Length, 60mm wide] good enough for the L brace? How high can I place it on the front side? Do I need bottom brace? Remove with a fine blade, I use a salvaged blade from a BIC shaver. That would be fine. Go as long as you can and ease of getting it in, max length. Width is fine. Place hard up under the other braces, so as the L. brace is level with the top of the front pane. You do if the whole front is bowing. I would. I think that's them all answered. Finished doing it yet?? Alan NZKA 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panda Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 one more, Can I keep the back sump working (full of water) when undoing the braces? thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 Not really sure what you mean here P. about the sump, I can't visualize it. Why do you want to keep it full of water for anyway?? Alan NZKA 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panda Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 I have a "built-in" back sump, the rear 200mm out of the 600mm total width of the tank are used for a sump. It is full of bio-media and just finished a cycle, I didn't want the bacteria to die when I emptied the tank So I kept the sump running (pouring water to itself). I'm a little afraid that taking out the braces is not safe since the braces supports the sump as well... the question is whether it'll hold when taking out the braces. sump size is about 20cm*40cm(not 50 since it's not full) = ~80 Liters. [i can't empty half of the water in it, it wont run. It's either empty or full. ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 I realise the topic here is 'loose braces' but if I may digress a little I wondered, since you say you are from Israel (I assume you are actually living IN it as well), do you have a good selection of fish and corals etc over there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panda Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 well..everything is relative the saltwater tanks are increasingly more popular here. there is pretty good selection to my opinion of fish and corals I personally into fresh water (for now..) . there are some agriculture office restrictions about importing fish (some big chiclids, for instance) that doesn't make sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faran Posted November 27, 2005 Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 Well, you're in a very warm country (from what I remember from Haifa) and the release of large cichlids into your waterways could mean disaster for many local wildlife... MAF (the NZ Agriculture office) restricts many fish that can't even survive in our temperate zone. Now THAT doesn't make much sense, does it? Anyways, good luck with the tank! We're just setting up a 800ltr discus tank and I have this crazy feeling that we'll be going through the same process. Thanks for the thread, very helpful for people in the future with similar situation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panda Posted November 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2005 Guys. The L.brace is set up. not professional work but I hope it'll hold. I hold it with tape for the night. My only concern is that I pushed it too tight into the front side so there is a very thin layer of silicone between the Lbrace and the side. BlueandKim, what were you doing in Haifa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.