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Return pump strength and getting tank re siliconed.


Feelers

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Well, have a 300L tank, which has been very poorly siliconed, it dosnt leak, but it looks pretty crap. The centre brace is huge and has been stuck on with black silicone, looks shocking. I wasnt really too worried, but I'm thinking about the future, as I might be able to sell the whole thing as a complete saltwater system, possibly making a bit of money.

Does anyone know anybody who could dismantle my tank and rebuild it? How much should something like this cost? I'll try to post some pics, I really want to know if I can move or fix the stupid centre brace, I want to be able to put large rocks into the tank, and also I cant put a durso standpipe in as there isnt enough clearance from the permanant glass lid.

Oh, I can get a new jebao 12000lph pump for $220, ( I need a return pump)

I estimate that the height required will be 2 meters, unfortunately I havent seen the falloff graph.

Is this too much flow? I like a bit of overkill(when I can afford it) and I like the idea of having lots of flow. Would this be like having a tornado? Too much? I was also thinking I could just ball valve it to vary the flow rate.

Would ~ $150 be enough to get a 4500lph+ pump second hand? If anyone has an old pump they would consider selling pm me or list it here.

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I don't know what the Jebao pumps are like, as you prob know salt water is really hard on pumps so make sure doesn't have ANY metals parts.

I wouldn't be worried at all about the flow, you can alway split it into two outlets, or a SCWD, skimmer etc etc etc etc.

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Would ~ $150 be enough to get a 4500lph+ pump second hand? If anyone has an old pump they would consider selling pm me or list it here.

i have two eheim 1060's - one being held for someone already but you can have the other for $120. does 2,280lph, flow rate under what you've asked for but perhaps still sufficient for what you want? in good condition.

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Hey I thought I might update on how my systems going.

At the mo I have the tank, my 90L diy sump (with refugium) with 3000lph weipro 2014 skimmer. And the pvc parts necessary for plumbing. Still need to get the tank drilled and need a bulkhead.

I found the most likely octopus I will be able to keep, is the club pigmy octopus, called octopus Warringa.

I plan on making a trap out of coke cans, all on a fishing line and sink them. I'll just leave them for a week and will hopefully have some inhabitants when I pull them up.

There is no info on the net about this species, although I have one book with one page on it and a photo, ill try to copy it in.

Or I might get a small O. maorum, now called pinnoctopus Condifrmis. Problem is this will get very big, 2m armspan. Ill cross this when I get to it.

I have been offered a pump by jetski steve which I'm considering.....

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Are you in Aussie , Feelers ??

have kept a few ockies in my time ... most bad points are that they move small rocks etc around ... pull filter bits apart ... have a massive ......... ummm.."excrement" moment every few days( and I mean MASSIVE) ... good filter intakes needed here .. plus they destroy any other thing in the tanks ..

On the good side they are the most interactive species you could hope for ... real personalities ... you gotta luv them ...

make sure the lids are weighed down other wise at the worst they will tank hop at night :o , at the best they will lift the lids and squirt you with water as you walk past to tell you they want food :D 8)

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I live in Christchurch NZ, both species are found in aus too I think, at least in the south east, tasmania area.

Yeah my tank is gonna be designed for the octo only, (possibly fish , maybe a sea urchin and some star fish, possibly brittle stars). Basicially not anything I would care about being eaten. It would be great to have a few more live things in there.

They have 3 hearts so apparently they make roughly 3 times the amount of waste a fish of similar mass would create.

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I'd think twice about the fish ,.... ockies hunt at night so expect carnage there , they see fish with "food" written on them.. :D ..... as for kina etc .. should/could be safe .....one thing you can do is throw sum paddle crabs in the tank ... watch the ocky react with colour and skin texture changes..

have kept ockys with head size of a rock melon and they are the coolist to keep ( need large tank thou) ...

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The coolest video ever...........

http://www.abum.com/?show_media=6339&file_type=Movies&file_id=OCTOPUS.wmv

http://www.abum.com/?show_media=10899&file_type=Movies&file_id=oct_vs_shark_050831.wmv

it might take a while to load, but both videos are awesome......

It would be great to see more people getting octo's

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I thought you already had an octopus?

Not yet, I'm waiting till I move flats at the end of the year, which is good as it allows me to plan, and to start/finish my tank stand.

Hopefully tomorrow I'm gonna try my octo trap, and pull it up on friday.

Does anyone have any suggestions about getting my tank resiliconed? I think diy is outa the question.

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Read about this at Wet Web Media, re-siliconing was not recomended, by them, anyway. Had to do with the difficulty of removing that last microlayer of old silicone. Not sure if that was just one guys opinion though.

However, it won't cost much in the overall scheme of things to get a new 3 foot tank, and would certainly have more of a sleep easy factor. The cost may be offset somewhat by selling the other tank as a turtle or lizard tank or similar.

BTW, you showed an octopus pic back a few months ago, I thought it was yours.

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People re-silicone tanks all the time. Don't worry about it at all. If any silicone is left behind, great, silicone sticks to silicone :) Its only a small tank, not like its under any real pressure.

If you going to buy a new tank, then why buy a normal tank. Start looking at something drilled with overflows etc. With no top braces for good light and easy operation without lids.

Pie

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Ive kinda got two sides of the coin, my tank basicially has to be sealed to make it "octo proof", but I also dont want huge braces so I can put rocks in ect.

It would be nice to get one with overflows ect already put in, but since I'm on an extremely minimal budget (by your guys standards at least :oops:(go the student loan),

I would probably do things like that myself to help keep costs down.

I would love a new tank, of similar volume with the overflows and drilled, but how much would that cost? Anyone know the right people? :wink:

I know that the cost of a new tank is hugely different depending on who you go to,

Its hard for me to figure out, I'm kinda in limbo............. :cry:

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Perhaps one of the people who re silicone tanks all the time could chip in.

Or alternatively, Layton knows everything, and lives in your town. If you drop him a pm, I am sure he will know the best options available in Christchurch. He will be keen to offer advice.

Just don't ask him anything about iron :D

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Perhaps one of the people who re silicone tanks all the time could chip in.

Or alternatively, Layton knows everything, and lives in your town. If you drop him a pm, I am sure he will know the best options available in Christchurch. He will be keen to offer advice.

:lol: Critter Kingdom is probably the best place to go with tank building / rebuilding. Hole drilling is around $12 / hole from memory.

Just don't ask him anything about iron :D

:D I saw metal eating bacteria hit the news the other day. Apparently the Titanic wreck is being eaten.

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I have done tanks for myself and also others in the same situation.

DON'T get a shop or other, where you are paying, to do the re-siliconing,

unless you strip it down yourself.

The cost of removing the glue would equate close to a new tank cost.

This job, to do properly, is slow, and does have a few risks.

I use a "bik" shaver that has been pulled to pieces.

The blades are so small, they fit in all but the best joints.

I break the blade-holder sides from off the handle of the shaver, and use the handle and the stub,

to push the blade thru the silicon, if you don't do this, expect cut fingers, or wrecked finger-nails.

The job of disassembling is not so time-cinsuming, it's the removal of the old silicon from all joints.

The final part of the way I do it is to roll off the fine amount left with the palm of my hand.

If I'm not happy, I use my spit-stone that I aris the edges with to get to the glass.

I'll also use it to buff the glass for better glue bonding (fine scratching).

Now you have it this far, the easy part it there, It should take an expert less than quarter of an hour to do the gluing.

Now about the octo in the tank, I am sure I have read that if they "ink". they can make the tank so toxic, that they can kill them self.

Don't know if this is true, but it's worth looking into.

I went to Portobella Aquarium, and they told the story of a self-help-octo that climbed from it's tank at night

and went food hunting in another tank, and to return home before the staff arrived to work.

It was only discovered after cameras were set up.

To octo safe the tank, I'd make tops that would slide into a gap created by a couple of pieces of glass,

glued on each end brace, to form a Z.

Get what I mean??

Alan 104

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