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Evaporation


ghostface

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wouldnt the size of the coils in the chiller slow it down? requires 1200lph minimum.

Of course the flow would be restricted but gravity is doing exactly the same thing as a pump. e.g. my skimmer wants 3000 litres an hr, which is driven by gravity. My fludozed reactor for phosphate resin, same deal.

If I have to buy a chiller (ack!) I certaily will be powering it by gravity. Gravity and a pump are doing exactly the same thing.

It seems wastful to pump water all the way up, let it drop down, the pump it back up to the chiller then back down again? Work the IWAKI.

Pie

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I pray I don't have to buy a chiller.

Pie

I bet you will have to unless you get fans blowing across between your water and your lights.

When I had my tank in Newtown it used to hit 32° on occasions, before I added the fans. Afterwards, 28° even on a really hot day.

Steve

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Of course the flow would be restricted but gravity is doing exactly the same thing as a pump. e.g. my skimmer wants 3000 litres an hr, which is driven by gravity. My fludozed reactor for phosphate resin, same deal.

the way i see it is gravity is approx 10m/sec/sec, only the area of the pipe into and through the chiller would dictate how much volume you get through. a pump is mechanically driven forcing flow at a greater rate/acceleration thus could push the water through quicker?

gravity feeding the chiller is possible (I would have to relocate it - thats the tricky part) but i dont know what sort of flow rate that will be getting (specifically because i dont know if the small diameter coils would impede flow only fed by the acceleration of gravity). it would obviously need a bypass if being fed from the display tank overflow for two obvious reasons, if the chiller got blocked and second if i want to remove it from the system (yikes, more plumbing and more ball valves!)

i will configure it this way (im sure most of us would rather do this than have yet another pump) but want some evidence of what flow rate i'd be getting through it?

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Test it out before you plumb it if you not sure.

As for ball valves and Ts. You would be a kamakazi pilot not to build in a way to bleed of extra water flow and cope with the chiller failing or needing to be disconnected.

You can use another pump, and I am sure that it will work fine. But it is wastfull, having all that energy from gravity wasted.

In my setup I guesstimate approximatly 6000 litres an hr is pushed through my system via the return pump. Given that, I must be able to use 1200 litres of it to run a chiller. Worked for me so far.

using your return pump to feed your chiller??? no?

yes and no if I understand you question correctly. Leave the return plumbing alone, and plumb the chiller into the return from the tank. This is what I mean. You pump water up to the tank, it falls back down, then you use another pump to pump it up and through the chiller and it falls back down, why do this? You can achive the same thing with the 1 pump.

(I would have to relocate it - thats the tricky part)

You have a custom built and dedicated sump room.

Pie

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yes and no if I understand you question correctly. Leave the return plumbing alone, and plumb the chiller into the return from the tank. This is what I mean. You pump water up to the tank, it falls back down, then you use another pump to pump it up and through the chiller and it falls back down, why do this? You can achive the same thing with the 1 pump.

i realise this, just whether the rate of flow will be sufficient is what im questioning.

You have a custom built and dedicated sump room

it means mounting the chiller higher up (above the sump so water can flow out and into it) currently it's sitting under the sump (but not hooked up) Time to build a shelf i think :D

i like the idea of running the chiller and fluidised reactor from gravity, will feed them direct back into my sump rather than fuge, this will reduce the flow of water through my fuge which i think is currently overkill.

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i realise this, just whether the rate of flow will be sufficient is what im questioning.

Won't be an issue. Gravity doesn't care (there will be small reduction, but I suspect you have ample left over energy.

it means mounting the chiller higher up (above the sump so water can flow out and into it) currently it's sitting under the sump (but not hooked up) Time to build a shelf i think

ummmm why? I don't think you get it. Water is falling down. Pressure is applied. There is no reason why the chiller can't be on the ground, water will be forced in the top, pass through the skimmer and be pushed back up. Leave it on the ground, water can go up hill as well, it will just eat a bit of energy. No reason to build a shelf, it won't make much difference I wouldn't think? Also the further the water falls, the more pressure there will be to drive the water through the restrition of the chiller.

Pie

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....

it means mounting the chiller higher up (above the sump so water can flow out and into it) currently it's sitting under the sump (but not hooked up) Time to build a shelf i think :D

....

It would work even if you dug a hole in your sumproom floor to put the chiller in, as long as the piping was sealed. In a gravity driven sealed water flow (i.e. a syphon) in is only the diference in height between the inlet and the outlet plus the internal resistance (determined by length, diameter, restrictions etc) that matter. The only advantage of putting the chiller on a shelf would be (possibly) a shorter path.

Steve

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cookie extreme runs his at 27 and his tank is sharp.

actualy its 22-23 at the moment, goes up to almost 24 on warmer days.

will go to 28-29 during the summer months. i lose at present 7-9 liters daily which is replaced with kalkwasser during the night (good thing). this i guess will increase to approx. 10-12 liter per day in summer

my tank has dropped a bit in temparature since removing all the crap (4 different fluro light fittings) that were sitting on the tank. also downsized my M/H which should help with keeping the tank cooler in the summer (and saves me money on my power bill :D )

hey Pies had my tank last summer around the 30 mark which was very nerve wrecking and lost a couple of nice acro's due to high water temp. :( so 3month ago installed an aircon to cool the room with the tank in it (also nice for the human occupants in the house during summer) and moved my sump under the house with lots of cool airflow.

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as long as the piping was sealed

yeah, 'sealed' obviously being the key. still, the less piping, the less joins, the less chance of problem :D

cookie - now that poor dude must be well pissed. something so simple losing all that time, effort and money. always makes you look at the highest chance of failure in your system and build redundancy around it - if at all possible!

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My tank evaporates about 5 liters a day with the covers off the tank. So my topoff is a 25 L jerry can and runs dry around 22ish. I burn through that in about 4 days. With them on I can squeeze about 6 days out. So call it 3ish with the lids on. That's over winter.

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My tank evaporates about 5 liters a day with the covers off the tank. So my topoff is a 25 L jerry can and runs dry around 22ish. I burn through that in about 4 days. With them on I can squeeze about 6 days out. So call it 3ish with the lids on. That's over winter.

Oh, and as far as the chiller, If you've got the water coming from the tank down through the floor to the chiller you've got 10 feet of head. That'll give you all the flow you need.:)

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