KH GH PH

[Duke3d]

Alright read bits and pieces but lets see who can talk in terms I understand.

Setting up new tank, have peat in base plenty of plants CO2 x2 Nutrafins going in and 6 Neons + 1 algae eater.

Ok PH 6 - 5.5 somewhere in the middle

KH didn't really register

GH didn't really register either

Used both JBL master kit and a dry tab kit.

Have added a bottle of JBL Aquaakal (you know what I mean) tonight to try and get some better results

So need to increase KH and GH?

How?

Thanks in advance peoples........

[Shilo]

Your PH is already low, by adding CO2 it will end up dropping further. The Peat base wouldn't help either. Worse still without any KH the PH will swing all over the place (caused by extra high CO2 during levels in the night when the plants are using it then back down during the day etc). The KH is a buffer that will prevent these swings from getting out of hand.

But all is not lost. Stay away from those $$$ LFS chemicals - they are not needed. To increase the KH you could add baking soda to the water. Remember to add it with the water changes or the level will drop drastically with each change and cause a PH swing.

There is an easier way. Being on tank water my PH is also very low to start with. Instead of adding chemicals to the water I have just poured some Bird Grit (crushed oyster shell) into the filter. This will dissolve over time thus increasing the KH and GH. How much to use depends on the size of the tank. Experiment - start of with 1/3 cup per 100ltr and increase it over the weeks until the required KH is reached. Over time (months) it will dissolve and the KH will slowly fall away so add more grit as required. Of course there will be a reduction of KH level with each water change but it bounces back fairly quickly (the more acid the water the faster the grit dissolves).

Unless you have fish that depend on hard water, I wouldn't worry about the GH to much. It will increase with bird grit anyway (but not with baking soda).

Here are some helpful links:

http://www.drhelm.com/aquarium/chemistry.html

Good explination of PH/KH/GH relationship

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm

Recommended CO2 level and how to measure.

[Duke3d]

Great. Thank you. Yes can see the potential problem with such a low KH. Will have to get some grit and chuck it into the Fluval.

Thanks for your help

[DiverJohn]

Hi Duke,

You should test the water u are using for water changes, a ph of 5 is quite acidic. What does your water supply taste like?

Shilo is right adding CO2 will only cause pHto drop even further, especially with no detectable buffering capacity (kh). IMO you will need to raise the Kh and GH, I run my tank at about 5dGH and about 4dKh. If you are running 24/7 CO2 (nutrafin?) you will need buffereing capacity so your water doesnt go acidic (pH <7) when the plants reduce their use of CO2 at night.

Anything you do, do it slowly and check all 3 parameters, to a ceratin extent any changes to one condition will effect the others

HTH

John

[Duke3d]

The water doesn't taste too bad - it is acidic due to the peat on bottom of tank more than anything probably. Yes definitely going to have to find some shell to stick in tank to raise the KH - probably better sooner than later.

Yes running 2x Nutrafin CO2 so is constantly getting dosed in CO2. Plants will hopefully start to combat this but I guess won't entirely fix the PH problem.

Only have a few neons in there at moment as trying to cycle tank so while Ill still be a bit cautious, am not too worried if they get a bit of a shock!!

[Shilo]

VitaPet Mineral grit is as good as any and available at the supermarket. So long as the bird grit doesn't have "added minerals & vitimans". The cheaper the better.

As John said take things slowly. Since its a new tank I would use 1/2 the CO2, ferts and less light then I plan to run (shelf one of the CO2 kits for the moment). Pack the tank with as many plants as you can then after a few weeks slowly increase the light, CO2 and ferts to match the plant growth. Doing it this way will mean your less likely to get hit by an algae blow out. Let the plants dictate how much nutrients they need rather then you trying to dictate plant growth by overdosing them.

Nothing worse then starting out with a few plants and trying to grow them up to fill in the tank. I know - thats what I'm doing at them moment and finding the balance between plant growth and algae is near impossible.

[Duke3d]

Algae Algae Algae. Been away for 4 days - come back to see a neon encased in algae type mold and the rest of tank starting to becoming smothered in algae. Have disconnected CO2 now and have planted more plants in. Just thoughts for those reading through this forum - the plants that are in the tank are growing at incredible rates also tho, so now I just need enough to combat the algae

[Bluetom]

just get a couple of algae eaters, give the tank a scrumb then put them in and they should keep it under control.

[Shilo]

Balance, Balance, Balance. Finding it is the main problem. Somewhere in the system you have an excess or a shortage or both. In my opinion the C02 would be the least likely suspect. First thing to do before making any changes is measure the Nitrate and Phosphate levels. If the plants have taken off then I don't think Nitrate would be too high. But algae loves phosphate and when I have problems this is normally the problem.

Now you can cut down on ferts and feeding or you can up the other nutrients without adding phosphate. Since you have been away for a while then I suspect the plants have used up all the other macros leaving an excess of phosphate for the algae to take advantage off. Take a reading to be sure.

IMO the solution is to clean out as much algae as you can find then add more Nitrate while keeping everything else the same. The plants will continue to grow at even a faster rate while sucking up the excess phosphate and starving out the algae.

If you want to slow the plant growth rate then all the inputs (light C02 & ferts ) have to be decreased by the same amount. I.e. Balance.

Hope this helps.