High Amonia

[dee_jay_01]

Hey all In my partners 2ft, 105L tank she has 4x Fantail Guppies, 3x Swordtails, 1x Platy. for some reason the Amonia levels keep skyrocketing. We have tried Ammo-Lock, and a few others. We have been doing 25% changes every week to help. The Filter we are using is a Aqua One 102F Maxi internal Filter which cycles 500L/Hr, and now where trying a corner filter filled with carbon as well to try to eliminate the problem, but still not working.

Has anyone got any advise I could give her for this problem, Here is a link to her tank to show you the fish she has. Sorry about the quality they were taken with our webcam.

http://photobucket.com/albums/y252/jamjam82/

Any help would be greatful, as the fish are slowly dying off one by one.

[misnoma]

Do you have another tank in the house that's cycled? If so, steal some media out of the filter (if it's external, or able to be done), stick it in a stocking and pop it in the 2ft tank (even better in it's filter), nothing like kickstarting the bacteria colony with real live bacteria.

If you have a nitrite test kit test the water - are you getting high levels of nitrites as well?

Also, I would be doing the water changes every 2 days or so, possibly more than 25%, but not disturbing the gravel when doing them, important thing right now is to get the ammonia level down or the fish will keep dying whilst you wait for the bacteria levels to grow and deal with it naturally. So long as you don't disturb the gravel/decorations you shouldn't effect the bacteria colonies in the tank, but you can dilute the ammonia content a heap and make the fish more comfortable.

[Alan]

I have heard on other forums, that using the ammo-lok on a tank,

takes you straight back to square one.

ei. An un-cycled tank.

But then; who the heck am I to say anything,

I don't use ammo-lok.

Just a thought to consider tho.

Al 104

[misnoma]

I have no proof, but I'll agree on anecdotal evidence... my first tank took nearly 2 months to properly cycle... I was well new to things and kept adding such things to try and control ammonia, when really slowing down and doing more regular water changes to control it would have been better (in hindsight )

[Snowman]

I myself would be doing 10 litre a day water changes, no added chemicals or ammo-lock, don't clean the filter either as a clean will kill off some of the good bacteria.

Just syphon the water, don't clean the gravel.

Do this for a couple of weeks and should see some sign of the ammonia dropping.

[dee_jay_01]

Thanks all, I will let her read your comments tomorrow so she will know.

[Maxy]

Hi dee_jay, I have just had the same problem, see posts Beginners Corner, and everyone was very helpful. I was sold ammolock also when I bought my tank and was told to use it. It doesnt give you a true result when you test for ammonia, and I found it raised my ammonia levels even higher. I have since ditched it and taken the advice here and my ammonia is dropping significantly. As everyone will tell you, the less chemicals you add the more like their natural environment your tank becomes. Cheaper too! Good luck

[herefishiefishie]

hello Dee,

As the others said with the water changes. Also feed the fish only every other day & small amounts. Never clean the filter under tap water. Add some salt, 1 tbsp per 60 litres.

What part of brissy are you from?

If you have any queries I help Aquariums Alive(Gold Coast) from time to time, give them a tingle.

Ammonia & Ammonium:

The first stage of the nitrogen cycle, in aquarium water, begins when proteins break down into ammonia. Proteins are found in fish wastes, uneaten food, and other decaying organic matter (detritus from plants or dead fish). The conversion or decomposition of these materials begins the necessary and natural cycle of the home aquarium. However, if left unchecked, this cycle can be one of the most detrimental.

Ammonia is easily and rapidly dissolved in water and can quickly cause a variety of problems. Ammonia is readily found in a pH level over 7.0 (neutral) and increases as the water’s pH and temperature increases. Ammonia produces low levels of ammonium, a relatively non-toxic chemical. Ammonium is predominantly present in lower pH environments (6.9 or less) and doesn’t carry the multitude of problems associated with the more toxic, ammonia. However, it should still be kept in check. Due to high salinity levels, ammonia is 30% less toxic in salt water.

Ammonia contributes to a large number of physiological problems in fish and invertebrates. Some of these are: 1) The reduction of hemoglobin’s ability to carry oxygen to the blood. 2) An increase in respiration activity contributing to more ammonia buildup. 3) The irritation of gills caused by the deterioration of the mucus layer. This leads to swelling and in some cases the formation of new cells on the lamellae (known as hyperplasia). This further impairs the up take of oxygen.

High levels of ammonia can also lead to the sloughing off of the mucus membrane on both the skin and the intestines creating lesions or external bleeding and internal bleeding of the organs. The brain and central nervous system can also be permanently damaged. Stress related illnesses accompany high levels of ammonia and poor water quality. If left unchecked, such conditions can prove fatal to your fish population.

Frenchy

[herefishiefishie]

ooppsss :oops:

:roll:

Frenchy

[DiverJohn]

Hi Dee_Jay

I agree with what has been said already, but notice you have not mentioned 1 thing... What are you using to remove the chlorine from the water just before you do a water change??

I there are many products out there for doing this. I use Aqua Plus.

You need to de-chlorinate the water before putting it in the tank, otherwise i suspect you will be fighting a loosing battle as the chlorine will kill the bacteria you are trying to "grow".

Good luck

John.

[dee_jay_01]

sorry I thought I added that, We are using Aqua Master Chlorine Neutral.

[Alan]

Here again DJ is another unneccessary cost/chemical being added to the aquarium.

If the water change is an emergency one, ok.

But if it is planned, you will know he amount of water required.

Squirt it hard into a holding recepticle a couple of days before use.

Use an airstone in it, and it will have the chlorine "gassed" off and be ready for use without any additives.

Just have to bring it up to the required temperature.

Alan 104