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my new desktop nano for work


Brianemone

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Absoulty not. Remove the rubber 'rings', silicone has trouble fixing to rubber and doesn't bond to it correctly. Remove the rings, just use silicone, also means less places for leakage. Screw them 'hand tight'. Make sure the the nut goes on the 'outside' and the screw goes in the 'wet' side, this is optimal to reduce leeking.

Also remember that when your fixing your PP threads to use LOTs of thread tape, LOTS and LOTS. so much you can barely see the thread.

Good luck

Pie

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I use both rubber o-ring and silicon. I found that the o-ring dispersed the silicon quite nicely and when the silicon dried, it held the o-ring in place nicely. either way, just make sure the holes you drill are at LEAST 5mm bigger than the diameter (to the outside of the thread) of the hansen valve. that way you have at least 2-3mm on each side of the valve to fill up with silicon. too tight a fit wont give you enough room to add silicon. just go hard with adding silicon and wipe off any excess. as pies says, use lots of teflon tape but NOT too much that you dont see any visible thread. as a rough estimate, i wrapped it around about 7-8 times.

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By a hole bit of Ebay for $10.00 and do it yourself or get a dremal into play and do it yourself. In the end for $12 its hardly worth the effort for them anyway. Be drama for them if they broke it.

Pies

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Yep and give it a good clean with meths or if you can get it isopropanol. The scraper you can buy for a couple of $ to clean paint off glass works really well and as a bonus you can use it to clean algae off the glass (but guess you know this already, just got out of the begginers forum, sorry)

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so im thinking ill use a fluval 304 for circulation/filtration on the nano.

now my question is would you set it up with a scwd :-? or just break the inlets into two that collide providing a little randomness??

how would the fluval standup to the added resistance of the scwd

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i got the last few bits of plumbing today, (minus the last bulkhead which they didnt have anyof) ill be siliconing the back onto the tank and put in the bulk heads

spraypaint the back and give her a test run once i figure out how to attach the fluval to the 15mm pvc

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I'd be very surprised if the Fluval could drive a SWCD, they are built as a closed loop so the motor isn't designed to have any back pressure. Try sticking your finger over the end of the outlet and see how much pressure youve got?

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all setup now, i put in a few mushrooms zoos and my orange fungia (so it doesnt have to compete with my wifes monster purple fungia)

need to tweak the aquascaping to hide the heater but other than that its all go.

i also treated it for flat worms just to be safe (i dipped all the rocks either in fresh water or water from the main tank treated with Flat worm exit).

hopefully that should be the end of the little beasties for the nanonano. if not im sure there is enough live rock/pods to support a mandarin :D

ill put up some pics tonight if i can be bothered. after a week or so of trailing it should be good to take to work.

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plumbing goes bulkhead>pvc pipe>ball valve>more pipe> filter hose for fluval>shutoff valve on fluval>fluvalcannister

then back up in more the same in reverse.

so there are two ways to cut off the pipes, one at the ball valves in case any work needs to be done on the fluval or its tubes and then if i just need to change the carbon or something in the cannister then i just use the shut off mechanism on the fluval

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well since im probably the only one in the country that can post at the moment.....

fungia is loving the new space not getting nagged by my wifes fungia. :D

at leats on of the snails is alive and doing well, i have afew more bits and peices in there now but still need some fancy zoa's so let me know if youve got anything

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