kinnadian Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 API is fine for ammonia, nitrite, pH. If you are doing softies only, you can get away with just Salifert nitrate and alkalinity. If you are doing LPS or SPS, you'll need Calcium and magnesium too. If you plan to use any phosphate remover (phosban, rowaphos, purigen, etc) you should probably get a decent phosphate test kit too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 API is fine for ammonia, nitrite, pH. If you are doing softies only, you can get away with just Salifert nitrate and alkalinity. If you are doing LPS or SPS, you'll need Calcium and magnesium too. If you plan to use any phosphate remover (phosban, rowaphos, purigen, etc) you should probably get a decent phosphate test kit too. So a full list of test kits I need is: Ammonia Nitrite pH Nitrate & Alkalinity Calcium Magnesium Phosphate (I know I dont need it, I just want to be prepared) I may just bite the bullet and get all Red Sea / Salifert. I know I wont regret it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 You won't use Nitrite much so that could be one you buy only if you need it. But all others you will need, including phosphate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Just thought I would give a quick update, I am picking up my 200L barrel tomorrow night and should have the tank filled sometime this week or next week. My next question is, how loud is the AquaOne stock return pump? Will it be audible? Cheers, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I switched out the stock pump for an Eheim but ended up going back to using the stock aquaone because it was a LOT quieter. And yes the coral box LEDs work good, they are what I'm using at the moment and I have good sps growth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I switched out the stock pump for an Eheim but ended up going back to using the stock aquaone because it was a LOT quieter. And yes the coral box LEDs work good, they are what I'm using at the moment and I have good sps growth. Awesome, I really wanted to grow a scrolling montipora as the "feature" coral so the CoralBox looks like they should manage it. And how loud was the AquaOne one anyway? Cheers, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Very quiet as long as it isn't touching the glass or anything else. Only reason I originally changed to the Eheim was for more flow but I ended up wanting more silence than flow so went back to the Aquaone. I got more flow by adding a WP-10 wavemaker instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Awesome. Out of interest si, do you sell/swap your frags? I would like to have a local place to get them. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 I will eventually but for now I am just growing my corals out a bit. Just let me know if you want anything and I will let you know if I can make a frag or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 Just thought I would add a quick update. I have bought my wavemaker (WP-10 from fishstreet), and all I have left are the lights and test kits. I have a couple of questions about cycling, Im really conscious that the tank will start smelling if I use shrimp or similar for the cycle. And with the tank in the lounge that would be a huge issue. I was thinking of using the Red Sea Marine Care Program which has a set daily dosing and lets you add a fish at day 7, corals day 21 etc. Is there any cheaper option because I don't mind waiting. Cheers, Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 A single piece of frozen shrimp will barely give off any smell at all. I used 3 pieces in a 60L tank and couldn't notice any smell unless I put my face directly over the water, and even then it is quite minor. It won't be any worse than when your tank is running normally (smelling like the sea). I wouldn't believe any bacteria seeding product's instructions, 7 days for fish and 21 days for corals is absolute rubbish. There is probably an asterisk on that claim saying it is for 1 fish in a 1000L tank or something silly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SanityChelle Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 How's the WP-10? I was told to buy two WP-25s for my 350L tank, and I've discovered that just one on H3 50% + Nightmode is plenty! It's like a freaking washing machine set any higher than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 How's the WP-10? I was told to buy two WP-25s for my 350L tank, and I've discovered that just one on H3 50% + Nightmode is plenty! It's like a freaking washing machine set any higher than that. I haven't got it yet, I will let you know when I have. A single piece of frozen shrimp will barely give off any smell at all. I used 3 pieces in a 60L tank and couldn't notice any smell unless I put my face directly over the water, and even then it is quite minor. It won't be any worse than when your tank is running normally (smelling like the sea). I wouldn't believe any bacteria seeding product's instructions, 7 days for fish and 21 days for corals is absolute rubbish. There is probably an asterisk on that claim saying it is for 1 fish in a 1000L tank or something silly. Ok I will go with that. So basically add 3 pieces of frozen shrimp then wait until after the algae bloom to add fish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Ammonia will spike, fall away, nitrite will spike, fall away, nitrates will start to build up. Occasionally add a bit of fish food to keep the ammonia->nitrite bacteria alive, say weekly. Increase this towards the end of your cycle. Once all ammonia and nitrites have gone (roughly 4-8 weeks with an unseeded tank), try adding another small piece of frozen shrimp and your ammonia and nitrite spikes should last only hours, then you know you have a decently cycled tank. Using "cycle" can't hurt I don't think but it also may not do anything. I personally used it. Don't do water changes in the first few weeks, and only later if nitrates get above 80ppm. You don't need light but you do need flow and heat. You can add local invertebrates from the rock pools after a few weeks, if you want some activity in your tank. Once you are ready to stock, add 1 fish at a time. You can start with softies (xenia, zoas, mushrooms, etc) after the 4-8 week cycle period, but you will still get algae blooms etc. I would stay on top of phosphates at the start by running GFO in a media bag or reactor, or purigen, as soon as you start stocking. You'll thank yourself later for having no excessive algae growth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Cheers Kinnadian. I should be able to kickstart my cycle sometime soon then. I've been revising my test kit plan. Will I be safe getting API Ammonia, pH, Nitrite, Nitrate and Salifert KH, Magnesium, Calcium and Phosphate? Cheers Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livingart Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 yes API should be good enough to let you know for the cycle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Cheers Kinnadian. I should be able to kickstart my cycle sometime soon then. I've been revising my test kit plan. Will I be safe getting API Ammonia, pH, Nitrite, Nitrate and Salifert KH, Magnesium, Calcium and Phosphate? Cheers Will Yep, API is fine for those parameters. Magnesium test kit is only worth it if you intend on dosing, otherwise you will sustain the appropriate level through regular water changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Yep, API is fine for those parameters. Magnesium test kit is only worth it if you intend on dosing, otherwise you will sustain the appropriate level through regular water changes. So getting all API except for magnesium is ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 If you plan on keeping softies and easy LPS, you can get away with an API test kit for Ca, kH and phosphate in my opinion. If you ever want to get SPS, you will need to dose Ca (and hence kH), and you will need to use phosphate removers (GFO or purigen) so you will also need a good tests. So it is up to you, really. There is always the risk of your API test kit going off and you crashing your tank, costing you hundreds or thousands. There is theoretically also a risk using Salifert as well. API is generally in the same ballpark as Salifert tests, you just might get up to 20pppm discrepancy for Ca or 1/2 alkalinity difference. You also have to think how often you are actually going to test your parameters. If you have the best intentions initially and move to monthly testing (or not at all), well there probably isn't all that much use in getting Salifert. Either way, buy overseas test kits as they are like 1/2 the price of NZ ones (incl shipping). I'm sure we've been through this exact discussion before in your thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 If you plan on keeping softies and easy LPS, you can get away with an API test kit for Ca, kH and phosphate in my opinion. If you ever want to get SPS, you will need to dose Ca (and hence kH), and you will need to use phosphate removers (GFO or purigen) so you will also need a good tests. So it is up to you, really. There is always the risk of your API test kit going off and you crashing your tank, costing you hundreds or thousands. There is theoretically also a risk using Salifert as well. API is generally in the same ballpark as Salifert tests, you just might get up to 20pppm discrepancy for Ca or 1/2 alkalinity difference. You also have to think how often you are actually going to test your parameters. If you have the best intentions initially and move to monthly testing (or not at all), well there probably isn't all that much use in getting Salifert. Either way, buy overseas test kits as they are like 1/2 the price of NZ ones (incl shipping). I'm sure we've been through this exact discussion before in your thread... Yeah sorry. Anyway I am now sure on the test kits and can move on. Whats the salinity of NZ Water? I think that its a bit above the optimal reef SG am I right? What % RO should I have in with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted August 29, 2014 Report Share Posted August 29, 2014 http://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/ResultingSalinity.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 http://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/ResultingSalinity.php So am I right in thinking filling the 55 liter tank up with 49 liters of NZ saltwater (1.028 sg) and 6 liters of freshwater? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted August 30, 2014 Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 If you want 1.025, yep! I prefer 1.026 Is 55L the exact tank water volume, or water volume excluding the top inch of void space at the top of the aquarium? You're using RODI water, right? Not tap water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totara Posted August 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2014 If you want 1.025, yep! I prefer 1.026 Is 55L the exact tank water volume, or water volume excluding the top inch of void space at the top of the aquarium? You're using RODI water, right? Not tap water? Oh I'm not sure, thats just what I know the tank as being from the box. Yep I am using the RO water from Countdown. I will get myself a RO/DI Unit later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinnadian Posted August 31, 2014 Report Share Posted August 31, 2014 Those are almost always filled to the brim, so in reality water volume will be less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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