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Any Electronic guru's on here?


Bilbo

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I have had my PS3 now for quite a few years but hardly ever used it but recently I decided to give it a go. It had always worked on the rare occasion that I tried it so I went out a bought GT5.

First game I have bought since I got it.

I played it once and the dratted console died. It wont read any type of disc. Its out or warranty so I pulled it to bits and cleaned the laser and re soldered the laser assembly but still no go.

I have swapped the entire laser assembly but it still wont go. The disc feeds in OK but it wont spin even with a new mechanism.

No YLOD, no error messages just takes the disc in and then on the screen it shows that its trying to read it but it wont. Disc wont move at all. I was going to re-flow the main board but I thought I would ask for advice first. Its been quite a few years since I did component level repairs.

Does anyone know enough about how these work to give me some ideas. No "have you tied unplugging it" or "did you format the HDD" sort of comments as I am well past that stuff. Its a hardware issue not related to the drive assembly.

I don't really want to lose it as its a backwards compatible model. Sony will fix it for $350 but I cant afford that at the moment.

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can buy a cheaper xbox than repair a ps3 just kidding anyways.if youve swapped out the laser was it the same model etc i know with 360s you have to have exact model or it wont play.have you tried system restore?i know the backwards compatibles are around the 2007 mfd and are known to have problems i only do 360s so just thinking that it might need to be reformatted

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here is the best outcome you could achieve its.........................................a..........................................................................................................XBOX :slfg:
I actually think that's kind of funny, that is exactly what my brother said :)

I have a friend here who has re-flowed his PS3 a couple of times, apparently they don't handle the heat of hrs continual gaming.

I will ask him about it and get back to you.

That sounds sort of like what I was thinking. They use lead free solder now on most things and its useless. When we used to repair cordless and cellphones and couldn't find the dry joints we just covered the boards with flux and used a mini blowtorch. That usually either did the trick or completely destroyed it.

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Lead-free isn't useless. I actually prefer it. The only thing is people have to be re-trained on how to deal with it.

People got used to seeing shiny smooth joints and judged the quality of their work on that. Lead solder is very forgiving and can look OK from the surface even when it is a poor quality joint. Lead free however is not so forgiving and until you can do it right, it will sure let you know that it wasn't so good. This leads to process improvement and a better quality of work all round. Generally any products that have been made using lead free processes will have gone through this and now be producing a top quality solder joint each time.

My background to making this claim: I used to run the PCB manufacturing line of an electronics manufacturer during the switchover from lead to lead free, was also one of the only trainers in NZ on the 3 main international standards for electronics manufacturing.

As for your PS3 issue, it could be anything. If it was me personally, I'd bring it in to where I work and run it through one of our reflow ovens. If you've replaced the laser, chances are it's something else, something you haven't seen.

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