Squirt Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Hi I'm in the process of building my own stand. The dimensions will be 1700 x 550w x 500h. It will be supporting about 500kgs due to the tank not being completely full. The top and bottom frames Everything in the above photo will be made from 100x50. This is the front view/frame I'm not sure how clear it is, but the shaded area is the side on view of the top and bottom frame. The vertical supports will be 100x100. Ie the back left, back middle, back right, front left, front middle and front right vertical ones are 100x100 I plan to use 9mm MDF for the front and side "walls" and cupboards. This will only cover the bottom frame and the vertical supports. I plan to add a lip to the top frame made from whatevers going to be strongest. I will then add a metal brace on each corner, so 8 of them to add strength. I'm not sure how I'm going to stick it all together yet. Not sure wether to use a wooden dowel or nails. If anyone has made a stand could shed some light on this. On the bottom frame, would it be beneficial to add a piece of plywood so there is more area on the floor so there is less pressure? Without the plywood is 5000/.41= 12195 Pascals. Or with the plywood providing it is dead flat 5000/.935=5347 Pascals. Of course I'll add something to the top frame as well. Is there any benefit of MDF vs Plywood in this situation? Of course MDF will rot with water, but it is cheaper. Or is plywood less bendable? Oh and I calculated the total cost at $132 so far. Thanks in advance Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 I looked at some other tank stands and it looks like I'm doing this wrong. Instead of the top and bottom frames being on its front, it should be on its side? I originally was thinking about doing it this way, but then you can only have 50x50 vertical supports.They don't seem that secure compared to a 100x100 vertical support. Is there any downsides to doing it my way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 here's how i did my 2.0m one http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=48784&hilit=+tank+stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Thanks smidey A few questions. What happened between picture two and three? And how tall is your stand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 you could use 100x50s for the corner legs, you don't have to use 50x50s. like this... also just a 100x50 as the center leg will keep it tidy and more room inside. (as above pic) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Hi Thanks Si Sphinx, What did you use to hold your stand together? And how big is it? I see it is pretty standard to have the top frame like Si's and have a flat base. Did you end up putting an MDF or Plywood "lid" on it? So there is an even distribution of weight. And in regards to both stands, did either end up having a lip? I hear it will help save a tank in an earthquake. Thanks again Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Thanks smidey A few questions. What happened between picture two and three? And how tall is your stand? just turned it over, i did add the bracing at the ends after that pic. it is 800mm to the top of the particle board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 I see it is pretty standard to have the top frame like Si's and have a flat base. Did you end up putting an MDF or Plywood "lid" on it? So there is an even distribution of weight. And in regards to both stands, did either end up having a lip? I hear it will help save a tank in an earthquake. having two pieces of timber like that creates a beam which allows you to spread the legs out further. my legs are 500mm apart and the timber is 70x45 for the platform and 70x35 for the legs. no lip, do you mean around the base of the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Using the long members on edge rather than on the flat is stronger and a lip around the top has become very popular in this part of the woods since the shakes. We are none of us immune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 just turned it over, i did add the bracing at the ends after that pic. it is 800mm to the top of the particle board. Oh ok thanks for that I was quite confused there :sml1: having two pieces of timber like that creates a beam which allows you to spread the legs out further. my legs are 500mm apart and the timber is 70x45 for the platform and 70x35 for the legs. no lip, do you mean around the base of the tank? Yeah, apparently it stops it from slipping. Even though itd be hard to move a 500kg tank with a low centre of gravity, I believe a big one would quite easily break it. And so I flip all of the pieces of wood on their sides, would I still be able to get away with only having 6 vertical braces or would I better off with 8? I think I would still use 100x100 vertical braces as its still just as safe if not safer. I would then add a block on the inside of the frame where the vertical braces meets the top frame so it connects them together more. I'm not sure if that makes sense and I'll get some drawing up soon. Using the long members on edge rather than on the flat is stronger and a lip around the top has become very popular in this part of the woods since the shakes. We are none of us immune. Hi Alan, So what do most people use as a lip? I was thinking of attaching plywood to the top frame so it sits just a bit above where the tank will fit in. Of course this makes the tank harder to move due to being have to be lifter over this lip. I had a dream about a stand with wheels... :facepalm: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Using the long members on edge rather than on the flat is stronger and a lip around the top has become very popular in this part of the woods since the shakes. We are none of us immune. if those are 140mm pieces in Si's stand, they are rated (loaded dimension of 6m) as being able to span 1.4m as a window lintel for a house with a concrete tile roof, 1.7m for a longrun steel roof so you could likely be safe to park your car on Si's stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 And so I flip all of the pieces of wood on their sides, would I still be able to get away with only having 6 vertical braces or would I better off with 8? I think I would still use 100x100 vertical braces as its still just as safe if not safer. I would then add a block on the inside of the frame where the vertical braces meets the top frame so it connects them together more. I'm not sure if that makes sense and I'll get some drawing up soon. i have 5 verts, mine is 2.0m long and i used 70x45 timber so its longer, less verts and smaller timber. With 100x50 on its flat I would go 4 as the tank is not going to point load on any of the horizontal framing, especially once you have a sheet of MDF/PLY/PB and poly on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Okay a quick new drawing Okay so if I have 8 total vertical braces, 100x100 with the block on top in each corner and 4x 100x50 braces in the middles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 if those are 140mm pieces in Si's stand, they are rated (loaded dimension of 6m) as being able to span 1.4m as a window lintel for a house with a concrete tile roof, 1.7m for a longrun steel roof so you could likely be safe to park your car on Si's stand. Yes it is very strong (maybe two cars strong) especially when I added the ply cladding. I could of easily gotten away without the center leg but oh well. It is all just screwed together. its 2m long, 900mm high and 650mm wide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Hi Si Okay thanks for that. I see you only have a lip on 3 sides? Haha it's a high stand. I needed a short one either wise I won't be able to reach the bottom Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 nice cab si, very well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Hi Si Okay thanks for that. I see you only have a lip on 3 sides? Haha it's a high stand. I needed a short one either wise I won't be able to reach the bottom Thanks Yea I have to stand on a small ladder to reach the bottom of my tank. There is only a lip on three sides so I could slide the tank on from the back. the lip is really just for looks more than a structural thing. If an earthquake hit down here it would break it and slide right off if it was a decent quake. The lip really needs to be fixed on quite strong. I have seen pics of a tank that had split the lip open at the joins because of an earthquake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Oh ok, so one lip would be the wall as well I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanmin4304 Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 You can make it so the back lip screws on later and wont be seen against the wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Hi all I've been looking at building a stand out of 100x100s and it would cost me about $150 all up. Wood would cost about $100 ($70 for the 100x100s + a sheet of MDF for walls ect.) and probably about $50 for screws and paint ect. But I'm having trouble finding 150mm screws. Does anyone know where to find these? Or is using liquid nails enough (I doubt it but worth an ask)? Or maybe liquid nails + a thick piece of dowel like Bishop used to make their tank stand? I'll get a picture of what I mean in a second. Link to the stand 3rd or 4th picture down I think? http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=56567 Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepsnana Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Your Local ITM should be able to get whatever building requirements you need. If it was my tank, I would want screws rather than liquid nails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 if your using 100x100 you'll need to use a 8g tex screw or a coach screw if you want that length. what size is the tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirt Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Yeah, I was thinking of using two screws per 2 corner or 4 per 3 pieces of wood intersection Ill get a picture of what I mean in a second. @smidey, the tank is 170x55x58 but will only probably be filled 30-40cm/58cm Yeah it was the coach screws at mega 10 that I saw, but if I use them in the same structure above its going to cost me $60 in screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cricketman Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Glue AND screw is the way to go bru... :thup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 personally i would use tex screws. that is heavy timber, is it the look your after? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.