breakaway Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Hi Guys, I have a terrible algae problem as you guys know. Its really driving me up the wall, so as a last resort Ive decided to turn to chemicals. Ive heard some success stories, and would like to try these algae killers. Now what I need you guys to help me with is what brand to buy. There are a few brands, and I dont know which one to buy. Ive got a 600 x 300 x 300 mm tank (±54Litres) Secondly, I wanted to ask you gusy if its OK to get a CO² generator for this small a tank. This DIY CO² Generator looks like a good choice. Thanx for your help in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livebearer_breeder Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 the Co2 will drop ur PH. why not get some alage eating fish? Shae 250 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucid Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 I have c02 running on my tank and it does wonders for the plants, also I am adding iron to the water. As Shae suggested try algae eating fish first, oto0's are always popular and same with the Bristlenoses. Oto's as I hear told are probably the brest bet as the tend to eat most algae. Failing that if things to too bad then I wouold move to a chemical, I have always used algae rid and never had a problem with it, always dosed below the recommened and for a longer period to have a more gradual effect. B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakaway Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 So CO² is a No No? And I had a Bristlenose but it died. It did not eat the algae. And I asked if those siamese algae eaters are compatible with other fish, and the attendant told me that its a bad Idea, so I forgot about that. Im not familiar with oto cats, I will ask around for that. And I might just buy some Algae-Rid. The algae is not so much an aesthethic problem, but it grows on plants and covers the leaves, therefore cutting off their light, so they canot photosynthesise and die and wither away. So I wanted a quick cure for this. Im sure once the plants start growing, the algae will be starved of nutrients and will go away. How do you deal with pH differences if you have a CO² system? Do you add pH Up or pH Down? But isnt this a temporary fix? Any help appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooky Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 With my DIY CO2 system I don't have any measurable pH shift. Partly it's the good buffering of Dunedin tap water and partly its the crappy amount of CO2 my system actually mixes into the water. Still, the plants like it. So I say give the CO2 a go and if the pH starts to shift too much take it out again rather than trying to compensate. It's not as if its expensive or difficult to set up. As for Otos: look them up on Planet Catfish (http://www.planetcatfish.com), they have a catalog entry and a catfish of the month entry (down the bottom of that list). They are good with algae and don't grow unexpectedly or attack other fish. One word about my advice: I have never got my tank completely algae free, make of that what you will . :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Siamese algae eaters and otos are different fish. And SAEs are fine with other fish. Helps to know what kind of algae it is, also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakaway Posted December 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 The algae is a brown film covering the plant leaves, and in some places a thick green film growing on entire plants and filters. I guess I will try an Oto Cat. Thanx for the help guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critter_guy Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 green algea means to much light brown algea means not enough light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plantman Posted December 3, 2004 Report Share Posted December 3, 2004 Hi All i agree with spooky, if you have plant, you have algae. the secret is how to keep it low. i have learn through the hard way as i experience algae boom. the water turn green. that is too much fertiliser and light. Never, never, never use chemical for treatment to get rid of the algae as it will lead to other problem, like hurm you plant too. three things i have to watch out for: regular water change, sufficient fertilizer w/ iron and sufficient CO2. i am currently running a vitron UV light throught the water. i never had an algae problem ever since and my fish do not have any bacteria problems. (i lose alot of fish to disease.) I am also running two set of CO2 numtrafin in my 300 litre tank for 3 months now. there is always bubbles in my tank as the plant photosynthesized. i bough extra and wanting to sell it below fish shops price. let me know if you are interested. all the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suphew Posted December 6, 2004 Report Share Posted December 6, 2004 If I was you I would be looking at my lights and stepping up the water changes. Brown is often caused by lack of good light, green 'algae' is often too much light (i.e. tank getting direct sun light) but there is another thing call cryno bacteria (sp) that looks just like algae but doesnt need the strong light, it grows in thick 'mats' over rocks plants etc, it not really possible to get rid of (every one has it, just can't see it) it but improving your water quality should control it. There is a rule of thumb for light which is something like 2-3 watts per liter (can't remember numbers for sure so look it up on the net), plus the tubes fade over time (you can't see it but the plants can) so should be replaced every 6-12 months. You could also look into getting some tubes from a hydroponics shop, they sell proper plant grow tubes cheaper than a pet shop. I agree about never using chemical treatments, they will only treat the simptoms you need to findthe cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
livebearer_breeder Posted December 7, 2004 Report Share Posted December 7, 2004 green algea means to much light brown algea means not enough light Thats not true, i have a tank that has the light on for about 15 hours a day and I had a huge problem with brown alagae, it wasnt a new setup either. Shae 250 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plantman Posted December 12, 2004 Report Share Posted December 12, 2004 How do you deal with pH differences if you have a CO² system? Do you add pH Up or pH Down? But isnt this a temporary fix? Any help appreciated. CO2 is definately a yes yes for planted tank for strong growth. 100% DIY CO2 is good but there is no way of controling the amount of CO2 entering into the water. Expensive CO2 system uses bubble counter to control the in take. the Nutrafin is also a DIY CO2 with sugar and yeast. they sell it in prepack form and it is readily available in most LFS. the Diffuser is the one that diffuse your CO2 bubble into the water. this diffuser can be control according to the instruction given in the box (range 20 to 180 litres of water in your tank). Most LFS is selling it for lowest $59 and highest $80ish. i bought extra and have decided to clear it. thus selling it for only $49. it is brand new never being open. got a few set left. i can be reach at 021 178 5450. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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