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Discus lost its appetite


DennisP

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I bought some baby discus a few months back. The largest is doing very well. Almost fully coloured etc... one is smaller, but healthy, but the third, very small, very thin now, and still wont eat.

Anyone got any ideas? Please help, I think he's going to starve soon otherwise.

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I do feed three times a day, and lately I've been feeding the bigger ones on one side of the tank, then dropping some food right on top of the little one. He just sits and stares at it. Sometimes it looks as if he wants to swallow some, but then he doesn't. :cry:

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Well, Just now, like 10 mins ago, I filled up the soon to be paludarium tank, put my 150w heater in it, and a few pieces of cabomba floating for confidence. No lights or anything. its a 60cm x 30 x30 tank, or there abouts. The smallest discus is in there now, I can tell its weak because it was pretty easy to catch it :cry:

Now what? I will feed it later when it feels safer, and what happens if it doesn't eat the food? i cbf vacuuming it out everytime after i feed it.

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Problem with sticking a 300W heater in a 30L tank is the water might be boiling by the time the thermostat actually registers the change in temperature because the heating element can heat alot faster than a smaller one. But usually it is ok.. 150W in a 2ft should be fine.

I would probably treat the fish with metro, it is quite common for discus to get these symptoms and metro usually clears it up. Probably something to watch in the future is the number of discus you have 3 is usually a bad number as the bigger 2 will both pick on the smaller one the more you have the more the aggression is spread out, sometimes it can work but others not so well maybe this is what has happened in your case.

Metro is treated one 400mg tablet per 40L of tank water temperature around 30C lots of aeration, dose daily for 4 days with a water change. If the fish is eating you can treat metro orally.

Good luck :)

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Thanks, It probably is a disease of some sort as there (apart from the larger 2 babies kissing ONCE) I have not seen any aggression at all in the tank since i got the young ones, about 3 months ago. :D How often should I water change the 2ft?

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A large clean chilly bin makes a good holding 'tank' as do large plastic storage bins and most good heaters will be fine and not overheat a smaller volume (take care to ensure the heater does not touch the plastic sides of the bin). No need for a filter, just carry out daily water changes if you can.

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Went around lfs, looking like an idiot till someone told me you gotta get metro from a vet... *evil eyes* But the lfs dude, knows his discus, told me to give it a salt bath, so I did that, 4.5 heaped teaspoons for 1l of water. Almost killed it, but he's recovering again in the 2ft. (I wonder if these lfs ppl are members here...) I'll try feeding it some bloodworms later on today, see if it eats it.

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i don't see what slime coat production has to do with appetite in the most direct method any way. PM ron - discusguru and ask him what he thinks.

yes, metro from the vet. i think someone bought liquid metro from HFF?

If you can borrow a UV filter that would work to a certain extent for some things.

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I don't think you can get metro in a liquid form I have heard of people buying liquid prazi (adtape) from HFF. The may well have metro as well, it would certainly make sense for a fish shop to stock it. Sorry that noone could help you source some I didn't realize noone had mentioned it was a prescription med.

I am with Phoenix I cannot see how a salt bath would help, from my limited understanding discus usually go off their food when they get Hex so a UV or salt bath won't kill the bacteria in the gut.

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i've been using a 300W heater in a 50L tank and it was fine.

An electrician told me that it's better for the unit to have a small area to heat as it reaches it cycle quickly, whatever that means. I guess it means it doesn't have to work as hard. Same heater couldn't cope in a tank it was designed to heat but did a good job in mine. No overheating or other issues.

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Metronidazole is a prescription-only medication so you can only legally get it at a pharmacy or veterinary clinic. It comes in a tablet as well as a liquid suspension but as I have said before, it is not very soluble in water so the medication quickly settles out - the suspension needs to be shaken very well before it is administered.

Salt dips stimulate the mucous cells in the fish's skin and concentrated baths can help to dislodge external parasites (including mouth and gill parasites) but it will not treat intestinal worm burdens. Concentrated salt solutions (over 3%) should not be used long term in true freshwater fish as it can cause dehydration and predispose the fish to dropsy over time (usually as a result of kidney failure).

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