Diver Posted November 23, 2004 Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 I have to move flats this weekend and thought I should get some advice so hopefully nothing goes wrong. My tank is 1.4 by .5 by .6. First the new flat has wood floors in the lounge and as the house is on a slope the floor is about 3 m off the ground. I only had a quick look at the supports and it looks like it just wood beams. I’m wondering if it will be safe to put the tank on this. Is there any thing I should look at top determine the strength? Otherwise I will have to put the tank in the garage or in my room which has concrete floors. Second I need to attach a chiller to the tank as it is cold water marine. Currently there is an overflow on the right corner of the tank and the return in the left corner. My plan is to drill two holes and operate the chiller in a closed loop. For position I was thinking of locating them both at the surface to protect against potential flooding with the outlet on the right side facing in and the inlet in the middle. Will this work ok? Both pumps will be pumping 3000lt each. Third who in Auckland can I get to drill the tank? and how much is it likely to cost. I’m on the north shore, so will I have to take the tank somewhere or can it be done at my place? Thanks Diver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted November 23, 2004 Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 i wouldnt put the chiller in the closed loop, the flow rate is too high it wont have time to cool the water properly. im going to use a 802 powerhead to run mine. thats a big tank dude, check that the beams are directly under or at least near the tank above, and also that the beams are supported by posts near as well. that much weight is likely to bend the joists a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caryl Posted November 23, 2004 Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 Has the tank got a flat 'foot' base or does it stand on 4 narrow legs? Put it against a load bearing wall and running crosswise to the joists then keep your fingers crossed. Hopefully the floor is already well supported. Surely the tank would be all right for a short while without a chiller? After all, rockpools get very warm in between high tides. It is constant warmth that is the problem. Good luck with the move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diver Posted November 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 I’m adding the chiller as it a good time to do it i.e. the tank will be empty. Also I will do the other things I forgot to do when I first got it like paint the back. Cheers Diver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted November 23, 2004 Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 the flow rate is too high it wont have time to cool the water properly It will cool the water just fine, the outlet temp will be a little warmer, but you'll get more of it, the total cooling will be exactly the same. If anything it will be a little more efficient because the temperature of the water near the end of the chiller's system will be a bit warmer and so easier to remove the heat from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted November 23, 2004 Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 completely depends on the chiller ira. for most chillers, 3000 litres per hour (790gph) is probably too fast. i do agree that there should be a minimum flow rate though. the flow rate should be within the minimum/maximum spec's as detailed by the chiller manufacturer. as an example, my chiller (1/2hp) has a recommended maximum flow rate of 300gph from memory. however, i have seen some chillers with maximum flow rates of up to 900gph so as i say, depends on make. see here for some general information: http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_chillers_heaters_teclima_information.asp?ast=&key= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted November 23, 2004 Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 That's probably more due to physical limitations within the chiller. The pressure required to pump 900 GPH throw tiny pipes inside it...Well, you don't want it to spring a leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted November 23, 2004 Report Share Posted November 23, 2004 who knows what the coil size is in a particular brand of chiller? a 1" inlet could split off into several smaller coils! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diver Posted November 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2004 Thanks for all the help so far I had another look at the house yesterday. About the only place I can put the tank is pretty close to the fire, about .5m . The supports under the floor are 4 by 2 and the joist run parallel to the tank (hope my builder terms are correct). I think I may have to end up flipping a coin to decide if I put the tank in this spot. Someone in Auckland must know who I can get to drill some holes in my tank. What type of business should I ring, do the people who fix broken windows have this type of equipment? Cheers Diver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted November 25, 2004 Report Share Posted November 25, 2004 Call Rod, (09) 232-9781. Best to call him at about 9:30am - 10am. He built my tank for me, and drilled the holes. Great bloke, wont cost ya much. Tell him James or Steve recommended you to him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted November 27, 2004 Report Share Posted November 27, 2004 I would be more inclined to try and run across the joists if you can. This will spread the weight out more evenly. You are somewhere around .6 to .7 of a tonne with that tank. If you run along the joists, be wary of the age of the house. Do you know the age. I am a builder also, so can prolly help here a bit. The joists sit on the bearers. Do you know the distance between the bearers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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