Quesitons re: testing?

[Caper]

I have not tested my tanks in a long, long, very long time :oops: But, have started to do again. Now, keep in mind I have not made any major changes to my tanks re: adding anything new except maybe a fish or 2 & the odd new artificial plant.

But anyway, I've started testing again so here are some questions.

Nitrate:

Thanks to Caryl who sent me a nitrate test kit; I can now test my nitrate: does nitrate have to read 0? Caryl, since you know the test kit, do I hold the test tube "just in front of the card" or "right on it". The reason I ask this is I realized today that if I hold the tube directly on the white card I get a reading of 20, whereas, if I hold it in front without it actually being "on" the test kit I get a reading of 10???? Oh, hope I explained that good :-? :oops:

Nitrite:

They have no kits in at present time.

pH:

When I tested in the past for the pH it was always the same. I think it was roughly between 7.4 & 7.6 (if I'm remembering correctly :oops: ). Anyway, the only test kits they have in are the strips. Tested today and except for the goldies tank (7.2) the other 10 gallon & 20 gallon were 6.8!

How do I test my tap water? Do I have to leave it sit for awhile in a cup?

Caper

[dimebag]

hi caper, yes leave tap water to sit for a while before testing.

with the nitrate, sounds like yours is spot on. when i test mine(not often) i hold the tube up to the white beside the coloured squares. not sure if this is right or not but thats what i do. nirate at 10-20ppm is fine.

personally i wouldnt bother with nitrite test, i have one that came with my test kit, that i have never used.

[Ianab]

What Dimebag said.

Nitrate around 10-20 is normal and perfectly OK. Your filters convert the toxic ammonia and nitrite into nitrate, which is less toxic. So the nitrate slowly builds up, and you do your water changes to keep the level low. If it goes over about 40 then you should start doing more or bigger water changes. Nitrite and Ammonia should be 0 as long as your filter is cycled and working properly. If they aren't, then you need to find out why and fix it fast.

You pH sounds OK too. Most common fish can handle pH of 6-8. It's better to have it stable in that range than to have it fluctuating as you try and adjust it. Some fish are more fussy, Amazon species generally prefer acid, closer to the 6. African lake cichlids prefer alkaline, more like 8. But most fish can handle a reasonable range.

Cheers

Ian

[Caper]

Thanks

The ammonia in all 3 tanks is zero.

Okay, so the nitrate 10 - 20 is ok then. I know the kit says below 40 is ok but I didn't know if I should have been aiming for 0 or not.

I will test my tap water to see what kind of reading I get with the test strip. I don't know if I like these but that is all they had. I know a consistent pH is acceptable in comparison to one that fluctuates. I just thought it was strange to get the lower readings with this one.

Caper

[Caryl]

Hold the test tube on the card.

[Caper]

Hold the test tube on the card

Ah, so that the tube is actually touching the card? Guess is sounds silly but really holding it right on (touching) the card I get different reading then when I hold it directly in front of the tube (not touching) :-? :-?

BTW Caryl, I posted pics of my grandsons in the off topic section.

Caper

[Ianab]

Okay, so the nitrate 10 - 20 is ok then. I know the kit says below 40 is ok but I didn't know if I should have been aiming for 0 or not.

Lower is better, but you probably wont get 0 unless you have very clean tap water and change 50% per day :roll:

20 is 'normal', as long as you can keep it like that your fish will be fine. :bounce:

I just thought it was strange to get the lower readings with this one.

The furnishing of the tank can change the pH, driftwood will generally lower it, while a bit of limestone, seashell or coral in the gravel will raise it. Not a problem as long as it doesn't get to extremes. But if you do want to adjust the pH a bit, those are fairly natural ways to do it.

Cheers

Ian