Brown algae in tank & white film coat on O!

[racing6pack]

55 gallon. 1 11" Oscar, 1 14" common pl*co ( in 2/3 of the tank) & 10 dwarf puffers (in 1/3 of the tank... awaiting a 46 gallon to complete its cycle). I keep 1 TBS/10 Gal aquarium salt in my tanks. I do 20-25% water change weekly. When I remove water, I add salt accordingly. I keep the temp at 78-80F and have warmed it up a bit today, because I woke up this morning and Ethel has a white film all over. Looks like her slime coat is coming off. She's got her "sad" mood colors on and her fins tucked in tight. Also, she's rubbing on everything, but no white "spots"... ich (ick)?

Currently the tank params are:

ph 7.2

ammonia 0

nitrite 0

nitrate 40ppm

I'm thinking of adding more 1 TBS MORE salt per gallon and raising the temp to 85F for the next week. Is this good treatment?

Problem this may cause: Stress to the 10 Baby Dwarf Puffers. Should I go ahead and move them to their 46 gallon tank, even though it's not completely cycled? The current params in the 46 gallon tank that they will eventually be moved to are:

ph 7.2

ammonia 0

nitrite 1.0ppm

nitrate 5.0ppm

I'm afraid of adding the little puffs to their new tank too soon, and before its cycle is complete, but I'm also afraid of killing them with a disease and/or its treatment where they're at. Also, I think Ethel would be under much less stress if her tank weren't divided and shared with 10 little "mosquitos". (She sits on her side of the divider and just stares at them for hours and trys to tear down the divider by bumping it several times. I have to secure it off an on during the day.)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. (Oh, and don't forget to address the brown algae too!) Thanks in advance.

[Pegasus]

Hi 6Pack

It's just before 5 here in NZ, and hopefully help is on it's way from someone. Your concern is our concern and having seen Ethel I know how you feel.

Seems she might be stressed a little and the salt worries me. Have you done a test for hardness and PH lately. It might be fine for the puffers but the Pleco and Oscar could be in stress over the conditions. Also is the temp the same at each side of the divider, not too cool on the Oscar side.

It's not much to offer at this point, but hopefully you might get a quick answer before the day is out.

The fish are the main concern, and the brown algae will not be a prob I don't think. Fish sometimes shed slime if they are in different conditions to normal, but if your tank has been like this for some time it's hard to say what is causing it. The rubbing usually indicates either ich or a parasite of some sort, but again, fish do have a scratch occasionally, but if it's constant then it could be unfavourable water conditions, high bacteria counts, minute protozoans which get under the skin and gills, or as above.

I'll do a bit of book searching till you get some more replies.

Just got a bit from my book of words. Might not make much sense, but here it is.

Skin Slime.

A slimy condition of the skin, often with the addition of faded colour and cramped fins, may be caused by a variety of infections.

common ones are:

Cyclohaeta domerguei, Chilodon cyprini, or Chilodon hexastihus and Costia necatrix.

ALL are protozoans. Treatment is best with Quinine Hydraclhoride.

It doesn't give dosages etc, so I can't help there.

If possible hang on before you make any rash judgements, there might be more help from elsewhere. Come on you guys, this is urgent.

Regards

Pegasus (Bill)

[Pegasus]

HI 6Pack

just got this off the net. (Hope they don't sue me... Tough bickies)

All tropical fish secrete a protective mucoprotein slime coating that covers the scales and skin. This slime coat acts as a defense against invasion by bacterial, parasitic, and fungal pathogens. Essential electrolytes necessary for osmoregulation are lost through breaks in the skin and slime coating causing dangerous stress. Open wounds and abrasions caused by handling, netting, and breeding behavior are readily attacked by disease organisms resulting in further stress and fish death. STRESS COAT is a special patented formula containing a slime coat replenisher and Aloe Vera, nature's own liquid bandage. This formula not only eases stress but promotes the healing of damaged fish tissue.

STRESS COAT contains a special non-toxic polymer that is attracted to the skin of the fish forming a synthetic slime coat envelope. STRESS COAT also contains electrolytes such as sodium, magnesium, and chloride which helps reduce loss of electrolytes through the skin, gills, and damaged tissue. The Aloe Vera in STRESS COAT reduces inflammation of damaged fish tissue. Independent studies have proven that STRESS COAT aids in the healing and regeneration of damaged tissue. This formulation was proven so unique and effective that it was awarded U.S. Patent 4500510.

STRESS COAT is used worldwide as a tonic when actual tissue damage and stress has occurred as a result of disease or fish interaction. STRESS COAT also neutralizes chlorine and can be used in conjunction with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals AMMO-LOCK®2 to condition aquarium water and neutralize toxic ammonia in tap water. STRESS COAT is used and recommended by fish handlers to add to bags of fish during transporting.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE:

To Replace Fish Slime Coating: to promote the healing of skin wounds and torn fins, add two teaspoonfuls (10 mL) of STRESS COAT for each 10 gallons (37.85 L) of aquarium water.

To Remove Chlorine: add one teaspoonful (5 mL) of STRESS COAT for every 10 gallons (37.85 L) of tap water.

To Remove Chloramine: use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals AMMO-LOCK®2. AMMO-LOCK 2 will instantly lock up the ammonia from chloramine as well as ammonia produced by decomposing fish waste.

STRESS COAT is not a medication and is not intended to be a substitute for any medication.

Hope it helps

Pegasus (Bill)

[racing6pack]

To answer your questions:

The pH is 7.2 and our water is very soft. The water temp is the same all over the tank and is now at 80F. Ethel has stopped scratching, but she's hanging around the top of the tank, fins still clenched. She has very dark coloration and won't eat.

I do water changes AT LEAST weekly (more often than not, 2 x weekly) I have never had a problem with brown algae, but it'a all of a sudden "bloomed" in the tank. I believe this could be due to our tap water having too many nutrients for it to feed off (as we have well-water).

I'm very concerned, because I've had this tank for 8 years, with no problems. Upon doing further research, I believe Ethel may have velvet fungus, but I'm still unsure about this.

I don't like treating with chemicals and antibiotics unless absolutely necessary. It's about 2:00pm here now, so I have about 5 hours before the lfs closes, in case I should have to get them. I will hang around to see if there are any more suggestions on this topic, but will definitely have to start the guessing and dosing game soon. Thanks for the help.

[Pegasus]

Hi again,

Check this link and also enter "body slime in fish" in your browser. Theres heaps of info till we get you some help.

http://www.petplace.com/Articles/artShow.asp?artID=2405

Your brown algae prob could be caused by high nitrates, (More water changes needed) or low light conditions. Furry brown algae is another prob. Is your furry or just like normal green stuff but brown ?

Regards

Pegasus (Bill)

[racing6pack]

Here's what I've done so far:

I did a 50% water change in the 46 gallon.

I'm currently floating the 10 Dwarf Puffers in a ziploc baggie.

(Dang them little buggers were hard to catch!)

I'm doing a 50% water change in the 55 gallon.

I've treated the water with 1 more TBS aquarium salt per 10 gallons of water. (This actually makes the ratio 1 TBS/5 gallons at this point.) My hope is that this will help strip the slime coat and make medications more effective, as well as kill any parasites.

I will go to the lfs to see if they have anything for this "velvet looking fungus".

Ethel is already looking 'happier', having the entire 55 gallon tank back all to herself. I'm sure this will aide in her healing, because she will be less stressed out in that rite.

Any other suggestions? I'm sooooo stressed out about this! I haven't gotten a bit of work done today worrrying about poor Ethel and the babies!

[Caryl]

I wonder if it is something in the water. I gather the algae and Ethel's slime problem occurred at the same time? Is it your own bore water or are you on a system? The council here cleans out the pipes sometimes and sends caustic stuff through. This can play havoc if you have just done a water change.

A fish will overproduce slime for protection. On the other hand, she may have 'velvet' and your store will have medication for that. Does your library have any good fish disease books?

Pegasus's suggestion of using Stress Coat is a good one. Think of it as fishy valium. It will not fix the cause but will help Ethel cope with conditions until they are corrected.

Get some Cycle (or other live bacteria stuff) to help speed up the cycle on the other tank.

Ethel may be at the surface for extra oxygen as the higher the temperature, the less oxygen in the water and she is a large lass who needs plenty!

We have our fingers crossed for you and Ethel.

[racing6pack]

Thanks for all the help. Latest update... I did go get some Stress Coat. Ethel is swimming around a lot and her color is back. No clamped fins and the white "film" seems to be diminishing. I'm thinking she was just fed up with having to share her tank, as it was very cramped for her!

Since I've increased the salt to twice what I usually use, I plan on doing a 50% water change tomorrow and again on Friday to deplete it. I've also got new carbon filter material to place in there when I'm sure she's over this. (I don't want to rob the water of oxygen, as I have the temp at 82F right now.)

The puffers seem to be doing fine too. It's to early to tell if the uncycled tank is affecting them, but they're acting fine. In fact, they're back to normal and are so much funnier to watch in their new environment. (It is much more colorful and "cavey" than their shared quarters!) You can see new photos online at http://photos.yahoo.com/thinner1sb if you'd like!

Let me know what you think! Thanks for all the help!

[Pegasus]

Glad Ethel and Spike are back to norm. Pleased it was'nt velvet. Got your message, thanks, and the new 46 pic on your site look great.

[racing6pack]

Thanks again.

About the brown algae... what can/should I do? I can't find much info on the web and I'd like to get it under control. Is it true that frequent water changes could be causing this? I only have a Millenium 3000 and a heater on my 55 gallon Oscar tank, so filtration is not wonderful and that's why I do water changes AT LEAST once a week (to vacuum the bottom mainly). Is there something you can add (non-chemical) to the filtration system or water that will combat the brown algae? Snails won't help, if I understand correctly.

Also, what can I do to keep the ammonia and/or nitrites from spiking in the 46 gallon? It was not completely cycled when I added the Dwarf Puffers and (there being 10 of them) I'm afraid now the cycle will be adversly affected by them. Would ammo chips and carbon be the best choice here?

I apologize for asking so many questions, but I haven't cycled a tank in over 8 years AND I've never had to add the fish before I was sure the tank had stabalized!

[Pegasus]

Hi 6Pack,

Sorted two or three links out for you that might be useful, one of which is on this site.

They all basically come to the same conclusion, poor light, wrong water chemistry, and in some cases overfeeding. I read an article somewhere, I don't know where, that in severe cases the diatoms could be locked into the rocks and substrate, which will make it hard to eradicate.

We have some folks here that are better clued up in the water chemistry area, but in the meantime these links may help.

http://www.cam.org/~tomlins/algae.html#conclusions

http://www.1research2webdesign.co.nz/fn ... php?sid=33

http://www.pakenhamsc.vic.edu.au/environ/algae.htm

Regards,

Pegasus (Bill)

[racing6pack]

Well, it seems I'm just gonna have a fight on my hands with the algae! They say "beauty is painful", so I guess that goes for keeping a beautiful fish tank too! :lol:

[Warren]

Brown algae is usually caused by not enough light, or lighting for the incorrect time.

If you increase the lighting however you may risk green algae. Sometimes you just can't win. Brown algae usually sticks around for a while then magically goes away. If you are lucky it is not shortly followed by green algae.

Stick with it and see if it does go in a couple of weeks. If not, try increasing the lighing a bit and make sure it is on for 10-14 hours a day. If you have plants, 12-13 hours is the requirement that works well for most situations.