evilknieval69 Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Just saw these whilst browsing another forum and thought they would be good to put on here so people who are starting etc. can have a simple diagram of three ways if doing it.... original thread here Rogan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockerpeller Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 thats great info. i was wondering how i would set-up a quiet overflow and all the answers are right in your diagrams. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KP Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Don't forget the full siphon, basically the stockman but with a ball valve under the bulkhead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneo Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Another thing I'd like to know is the dimensions of peoples overflow box. I'm halfway through upgrading and the last thing I need is the new display tank but would like to know the dimensions of others overflows first. Planning to go durso in a 150 x 150 overflow on a 4x2x2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 There is also the cracker pipe. I get continually commented on my silent tank. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilknieval69 Posted October 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Post diagrams of any others there are then peeps!!!! :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stompa Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 whats the cracker pipe look like..... any links to a diagram please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 cracker pipe is a redundant full syphon - would that be the best way to describe it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suphew Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 over flow box should be as small as you can make it and be able to get you over flow pipe in, oh and you hand as well so you can get it back out to clean/adjust etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KP Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Here is Layton's diagram of the full siphon. The idea behind this method is to prevent the valve from ever getting air sucked into it, which makes all the noise. Think of a bathtub, when you pull the plug out its pretty quiet up until the air starts getting sucked in and gurgling ect. To stop the gurgling we need to install a smaller plug hole so that the amount of water exiting our bath is the same as that coming into with the tap (return pump) on so the water level doesn't drop. To get the height where we want it, so no air is sucked into the plughole or splashing from the tap, the plug hole must be precisely the right size to allow the same flow of water out at a certain pressure (water height) than that coming in from the pump. Water level * Valve hole size = Water flow in (constant) So by making the valve hole size smaller (closing) the water level is going to need to be higher for the same flow. Similarly, making the valve hole size larger (opening) this will drop the water level. This is how we control the water level. The pic doesn't really show it, but this is the reason you really need a method of prevent foreign objects (snails, big chucks of food :oops: ect.) from getting down the pipe and blocking the ball valve (making the valve size smaller) or it will raise your water level. Several methods are: - To drill heaps of little (4mm) holes in the pipe with a cap on top - Use a stockman style preventative - Whatever you brain can conjure up. There is another advantage/disadvantage to this is that if the valve size has been set and the return pump changes the amount of water that it pumps (could be due to varing voltage, height of sump water level, old pump ect) this will mean that the water level will change: Water level * Valve hole size (constant) = Water flow in return pump pumps more, water level will be higher return pump pumps less, water level will be lower a summary to setup: Slowly close the valve until the water level stops where you want it, come back later on; if too high open a little; if too low close a little. Continue until no more change. Then your good to go... Sorry if I have complicated the issue but thats how I think of it :roll: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
land_lubber Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Cracker - Can you post up a diagram of the cracker pipe please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilknieval69 Posted October 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 One thing with the full syphon, surely you would keep having to slowly adjust as the pump ages, surely a pump cant run an exactg amount of water non-stop for its whole life-time, its going to slowly reduce flow over time.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 cracker pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbles Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 One thing with the full syphon, surely you would keep having to slowly adjust as the pump ages, surely a pump cant run an exactg amount of water non-stop for its whole life-time, its going to slowly reduce flow over time.... Absolutely. Keep in mind though that these changes are not sudden, and you should notice it over time. I tuned mine when the tank went up about 5 weeks ago, haven't touched it since. For the sudden changes that cause the water level to rise there's always your backup overflow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogmatix Posted October 12, 2006 Report Share Posted October 12, 2006 Having a smaller stand pipe will compensate for this, and if it flows more from some reason or gets blocked the extra weight of the water helps to flush the blockage (within reason) thats why you have to have a safety back up, just a free flow pipe above the normall water level, this way you WILL HEAR IT if it operates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lduncan Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 One thing with the full syphon, surely you would keep having to slowly adjust as the pump ages, surely a pump cant run an exactg amount of water non-stop for its whole life-time, its going to slowly reduce flow over time.... Nope. A full siphon when setup they way I have it, is self adjusting to this, and stays silent through both increases and decreases in pump output (within a surprisingly large range of flows). The physics makes sure of that. You'll see small changes in the water level in the overflow box, but the overflow will stay silent. The range of flows for which the overflow stays silent, is determined by you. No adjustment necessary. Set and forget. Layton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suphew Posted October 13, 2006 Report Share Posted October 13, 2006 within a surprisingly large range of flows Would be interested to know what sort of range you are talking about here? Maybe could you let us know what different pumps you tried this with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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