suphew

http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/here-vp164290.html#164290 The important thing is to get the right balance of light, CO2, and nutirants. The balance isn't that hard to get but if anything is too far out it either wont work or will cause problems.

Yep thats all you need. I used to diffuse mine by injecting the CO2 into the start of the output pipe of my cannister filter after the pump. CO2 was well diffused by the time it got to the tank. The price is pretty good for bottle and reg, but because of the small bottle it would only last a month or so. Still far easier and better than mucking round with yeast etc.

There will need to be a tap on each outlet anyway so you can shut down a tank, you could control the flow using these

Mine seem to have eggs all the time, I don't remember seeing them without them. I think they must have smaller eggs on the way under the larger ones.

I used to collect rain water and and use this because its very soft water.

Yeah fine for a tank that size, I ran it for a couple of years on my 400l tank with no problems. The technology of the berlins is pretty old now, but they used to be the bench mark for other skimmers and IMHO you would be hard pressed to get a better skimmer for that size tank at that price. But then I'm selling them so have to say that!

I have a couple of berlin classic skimmers listed on trademe, would be a good cheap option for a smaller tank or frag tank etc. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=65696239

From memory I used 40mm for 32mm bulkheads, but I did have to hone them out a little bit to get the fitting to go in. If you can you should buy the bulkheads before the tank is drilled them you can take them to the tank maker and get him to make a hole to fit.

Double bag them all seperately, only put 1/3 water 2/3 air in bag. Pick up a chilly bin or poly box to keep them warmif they are going to be in the boot rather then the car where its a bit warmer you might want to think about buying a couple of heat pads, or a coke bottle wrapped in newspaper. Dont open the box to move the water about for oxygen, this will just stress the fish, and let the heat out. The movement of the car will be enough.

The glass does block a significate amount of UV, but not all of it. I know this is true because I had the UV filter glass on my halide bulbs while I was at work one day and came home to find a number of dead burned corals in my tank. I also heard of people who have looked at halide bulbs with out glass and suffered arch eye.

Yeah have been considering it, can you let me know what types we can get here and if its posible to get small ones. I have heard the larger ones will clear a tank in days and then starve

I'm more interrested in getting something to get rid of mine

The glass will stop the UV light which the turtles need otherwise their shells go soft. Buut this doesn't mater unless you have a light that puts out the correct light in the first place. I used to let my turtle swim outside in a plastic paddling pool for a few hours each week, I think this helped but I didn't realise he had grown enough to get over the side until he disappeared one day :-(

Because they are screw fit rather than push fit, screw fit are less likely to leak or suffer salt creap. Also pressure fittings connect directly to them so you dont have to change from push fit to treads to attach pumps etc

I assume you have tried turning the heater up, and arn't just believeing what the dial says on the heater, they are oftem wrong. Also is there plently of water movement round the heater?? it could just be heating the water round itself and turning off. I would have through 50w would be ok for 50 liters but if he tank is only half full so you have a large glass surface to water area and no tops on the tank it might be letting too much heat out. Is the heater on alot?

Have you double checked your test kit? Maybe it is faulty, they do expire and can be affected be heat etc

Just depends on your tank size, pump size and the size of the rest of your plumbing. My over flow is 40mm, my closed loops are 32mm, but these are pretty big sizes.

Most plumbing shops sell them. I have got them from both Mico and plumbing world before, have even seen them in bunnings.

Ive had problems with all sorts of brands, I use a temp controller now, there are about $120 to buy but I reackon save money in the long run. You can use any old crap heater as long as it goes and less likely to lose fish.

safety glass is different from toughened glass, safety glass has a plastic sheet in the middle so is no good for heat but wont break, toughened is heat treated, its hard to break but when it does goes into a million pieces. I also think the chances of the outer shield glass on a single ended bulb breaking and falling off enough to stop it blocking the UV and the actual bulb still working is slim, but I could be wrong. Anyway the point I was making in my first post is the glass will still smash if splashed, and it makes a real mess. Its probably 4 months since I broke my glass and I still find bits of it in my tank every week. The other down side is the extra salt spray you will get on it blocking the light since it is closer to the water level, but I guess its easier to clean off.

Personally I have had the glass covers on my lights break twice, once while I was at work so assume must have been a fish, the other I splashed while removing a pump from the tank. The glass on my lights is 10-15cm from the surface. But having had it happen I do have to question the wisdom of using toughened glass, it will smash if splashed when hot (mind sure did) and will end up in tiny little pieces all over the tank cause the whole sheet goes and into those little square pieces. The bulb on the other hand would be further away from the water so lesss likely to be splashed and would only end up in a few larger pieces. Of course on the plus side the glass would be cheaper to replace, I guess.

I had the glass break on one of my lights while I was out at work, corals got a bad dose of UV burn. Are the frags newish to your tank? Sometime they just dont adjust well, even if you parameters are all fine.

First 250w comes on at 12pm, third (last) goes off at 10pm T5 blues are on from about 8am till 10:30pm

I have cut frags off my devils finger before and it hasn't hurt it at all. But have never done a major trim. After seeing Bourneman's fragging video I wouldnt worry about it having problems. I would have ever be worries about the toxins it might release, most references say they are toxic to SPS.

They move the water suface which needs to happen to get the oxygen in but there are far better ways to do it.