sandaz

Have given up fish keeping and sold my tank, and now have a bunch of stuff left over from the hobby to give away. Loved the hobby and took really good care of everything, but time to move on. Only condition is that you have to take it all, not cherry pick! Items all together worth over $250 in current condition. Pick up only from Churton Park, Wellington. Includes but not limited to: Blue planet 20L tank in working condition Air pumps x 2 including 1x Eheim Heaters including Eheim Test kits Water treatments, some still unopened including Algae Fix, Paraguard, Flourish Excel Medications including for worm & flukes, Furan 2, Kusuri Wormer Plus, Formalin Tank Filter material for Fluval 506 Isolation tank Hatch/Breeding Tanks Syphon for emptying and filling tank. Using venturi action when connected to tap so no use of buckets required.

Fantastic thank you!

Yep I think I agree with that. Thanks!

Yes, will seel the fish seperately. T-Bars sold today

Can anyone help ID these plants for me please? Wanting to sell as I'm shutting down my tank but need to know what they are first. Picture 2 I need to know the name of the ones on the left

Asking price $800. This auction is for a complete tropical setup which has been my pride and joy for the last few years. Unfortunately my time is more limited now and I have decided to sell it instead of letting it go to the pack. The tank is ~320 litres and comes fully stocked with plants, fish, wood etc. Everything required to maintain this tank will be included in the auction i.e. nets, water treatments, fish food, glass scrubber, syphon etc. Filtration is taken care of by a Fluval 406, as well as an Eheim Air filter. The tank has got quite a variety of fish which have been living together peacefully for a long period of time. The fish are healthy with no disease. Fish include: 1 x red tail shark 2 x female T-bar cichlids 1 x golden algae eater 1 x pair breeding blue platies 1 x black molly 6 x harlequin rasboras 3 x male guppies 1 x zebra danio 6 x rummynose tetras 3 x black line flying foxes 2 x platies 2 x kuhli loaches 5 x dwarf chain loaches 6 x black neon tetras 5 x neon tetras 1 x chinese algae eater 7 x swordtails 1 x tiger Pleco I've sold some of the Anubias (nana) and Sagitarius many times, making a bit of cash on the side to buy food etc. The cabinet has some water stains on the bottom shelf from an accidental overflow when refilling the tank. Viewings welcome in Churton Park. Tank also listed elsewhere.

It's a community tank with all sorts: Dwarf Loaches Algae Eaters Pleco Various Tetras Whiptail Flying Foxes What am I looking for? I noticed as soon as the leave shoots out it's already got the hole in it.

Hi, wondering if anyone can help me identify what deficiency I've got in my tank to cause all new growth to have large holes in them? All other plants seems to be doing well except for this one. Also seem to have green spot algae on older leaves. I use weekly: Flourish Flourish Iron Flourish Potassium Fourish Excel (2 x week)

Just found what may be causing the problem. Was sitting looking at my tank and realised the filter flow wasn't as expected. Opened the filter up and a piece of Java moss had clogged up the intake, how long it has been like that I'm not sure. Filter was last cleaned about a month ago. Any explanation as to why only the plecs died though? None of the other fish seems to be in distress. And should I do an urgent water change or leave the filter to now do it's bit again? Tested the water again tonight and Ammonia=0, Nitrite=0 and Nitrate=10.

About 3 weeks ago I lowered my tank temp to sit around 25.5 degrees as it heated up too much during the day (got to 29 degrees once). It sits pretty stable at that temp now especially since we've not really had a hot summer. I don't seem to have too much evaporation. Certainly nothing noticeable between water changes.

Hi, just wondering if someone can help me get to the point of my bistlenoses dying. I had 2 bristlenoses which died within 2 weeks of each other, They were fully grown but not old as I had raised them. Tank is 320 litres, PH is 7.2, Ammonia=0, Nitrite=0 and Nitrate=10. Tank is heavily planted and have lots of drift wood in it. I do fortnightly water changes of 50%. Tank is shared with other community fish that all seem happy and breeding. I vary the food daily and included flakes, shrimp pellets, blood worms, cooked peas, catfish pellets and algae wafers. I've had the tank for about a year and whilst I've had trouble when I first got it, these guys survived it all and things have been settled for about 6 months now. Why is it that only these guys are piking and everything else seems fine? Must be one thing these guys don't like. I have one more tiger plec left and would hate to see him go (especially as he was so expensive!) So if there is anything I can do to"save" this guy I'd love to know. So my thoughts are that it could be the 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt I add with water changes. Now I know this has sparked many arguments on previous posts as to whether people agree with this or not, but I did lots of reading and seeked lots of advice and and was assured this small amount of salt would not cause problems. But I know catfish aren't that keen on salt. But they have been living in the aquarium with it since babies... I've also recently started adding potassium and iron to the water ( as per instructions on Flourish bottle), but could that be upsetting the fish? Any advice appreciated!

It's been a while but just thought I would give an update to say of course you guys were right. Treated the tank as a cycling tank and did small water changes every 3 days and it settled down eventually. I must have done a water changes and not add the tap water conditioner in. As time went on i could see ammonia dropping and nitrite spiking, and then nitrite coming down and nitrate spiking and then all settling down. All the fish survived the ordeal and tank is all happy now with lots of Molly fry in it!Settled

Sorry confused the names of the products. I used Stability, and use Prime with water changes. So tank can be in first stages of cycling a month after adding fish?

Tank shouldn't still be cycling having used the bottled bacteria. It's been about a month since I've added the fish.

Hi, I was hoping to get some advice re elevated levels of Ammonia in my 38L tank. I've been struggling with a disease tank that did not react to any medication, so finally decided to bleach the tank (1/4 cup per litre of water) and start over again. I rehomed the fish to another tank (which shares the same disease issue as I used some of the gravel from that tank when setting up the new tank). After letting the filter run for a few hours I emptied the tank out and rinsed it with tap water. I cycled it for a week, adding Seachem Cycle daily as per instructions on the bottle. After a week I added some new fish (3 guppies and 3 mollies, all teenagers) into the tank which to date seems happy and disease free. I do weekly 50% water changes. With the holidays coming up I have decided to to check all my water readings. Nitrite = 0, Nitrate = 0, PH = 7.2 and Ammonia = 1 So can't understand why my ammonia levels are elevated? Fish are not darting or gasping. Is it possibly left over from the bleach of the tank? And that the Seachem Prime is removing toxic ammonia hence the happy fish? One of the fish have had some fry a couple of weeks ago which are all still alive and well too. There is no "oily" layer floating on top of the water either. Do I need to be concerned and is there anything I should do more other than my weekly water changes? I just did an extra 50% change today (4 days post previous) and have been adding Seachem Cycle every day since the weekend. But no change to ammonia levels. Any help/opinions appreciated.

My bottle is 2L so probably hence the cap difference

Great thanks very much for the feedback!

Hi, I bought a second hand full set up which came with a big bottle of Prime and the dosage to be used was already written on the bottle. Have never queried it as tank was healthy etc. Just read the label today and it talks about using different amounts depending on whether you are premixing the solution before adding the water vs adding it directly to the tank. "Use 1 capful (10ml) for each 400L of new water. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to the aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume." So now wondering whether I am using the right quantities of Prime. I premix a bucket of water with Prime and add to the tank, and then refill the rest of the tank via a hose straight from the tap. Tank is 320L. I do 50% water changes and would add 3ml at each WC. But should I double the dosage because the water is going in directly via tap after premix? Does the difference come into play when adding Prime directly or when adding water directly?

Thought I'd give another quick update. All seems to have settled mostly. Harlequin and guppy that I quarentined and then put back is still alive and well. Guppy just had some fry over the weekend. I found my male sword tail (that recovered so nicely after the Furan-2 treatment) dead and half eaten last week. Was gutted as I either missed signs of illness or he just dropped dead. Anyhow, hoping some of the fry he produced (and I'm still nurturing in my breeding tank) will grow to look like him as I've never seen anything like him in the shops. There is no signs of bullying, the RTB shark is a mellow fella and the t-bar cichlids tunred out to both be females, so are both spawning inside one of the caves thinking the other will be the male. The golden algae eaters seems to stay out of each other's way too. I think my main learnings from this has been: 1. Always keep on top of your water quality 2. Have a quarentine tank - nothing passes that for at least 2 weeks. It's amazing how much piece of mind this has given me lately as I see fish come and and some die, and know that it had nothing to do with my display tank and that it was never transferred in there. Also makes medication much cheaper as only treating 1/10 of what have had to in big tank. 3. Remove any sick fish before they die and get eaten, therefore potentially spreading the disease further 4. Soaking the food briefly in Epsom salts worked a treat for the long stringy fieces. Have done this in my quarentine tank as well and within 2-3 days it stopped 5. Never use the same equipment (nets, syphon etc) between tanks. It's just asking for trouble 6. Furan-2 and Wunder Tonic was the main two that worked for me. Prazi I think helped with the hole in the head too. Don't think I ever had just one problem. 7. Join your local fish club. Loads of people with lots of experience for many many years. It could be the key. Hoping my experience can help others too. I have learned so much! But hope never to repeat this learning excercise. Thank you to everyone who gave advice or sympathised! Will post a picture of my tank soon. Onwards and upwards! :lol:

How did you get rid of it? Molly had some fry when I got home - all dead. And next moment she's dead too.

Another quick update, the guppy and harlequin tetra seems to have recovered in quarentine tank and after a week in there have put them back in big tank. Larger white patches have gone and they are swimming and feeding. I lost a guppy a few days ago that showed no signs of illness, but all the other fish seems to be doing fine. Even the golden algae eater with brown patches have no signs of patches now and is all golden again. The swordtail have had her fry in the mean time and molly will soon too. Bad news is I have somehow transferred this to my breeding tank. I sterilised a breeding box used to isolate one of the sick fish and to keep the babies in while I clean the one they were in. I either didn't sterilise it properly or didn't sterilise it well enough. All of my 60+ babies have died, dropping off in mass over 3 days. Removed the breeding box and now two adult guppies in my breeding tank have died too. So something wrong in there as this pattern seems very familiar. Have treated tank with Furan-2, here's hoping it will stop what ever is going on in its tracks.

Oh dear, guppy side fin not looking good with the "white" spreading into her body, so have put in quarentine with the harlequin. Harlequin is still alive and swimming. Golden algae eater also has brown spots on it now. Have got some antibiotics off the friendly local vet, won't start treatment yet but it will be the next step. I reckon if that doesn't work my whole tank will be wiped out anyway.

Have put last remaining harlequin tetra in quarantine tank since it's the only one that still not eating. Had nnoticedan extra white sore on it left so have treated quarantine tank with Wunder Tonic. He looks happy enough, will see if he eats at all tonight. Other fish looks happy and healthy with no more signs of disease or sickness at present. I've learned not to count my chickens (or fish) yet though as this could just be a short coincidence. I do live in hope though. Both sword tail and molly about to have another set of fry in the next few days by the looks of it. Long white stringy poo seems to have stopped to. Think the Epsom salt treatment of food has made a difference.

Quick update again. I removed a neon from the tank which had white sore on its tail and put it in a breeding box. On closer inspection it seemed the white patch seemed to have something looking like cotton wool on it. I wrapped it and put it in the freezer straight away. Now if I'm right this fits with the columnaris mentioned on this post. And I read it could be spread by nets etc. So the net I used to fish it out and then to pick up other stuff, is that now infected too? And how do I disinfect everything?

Not having a quarentine tank. Still battling the aftermath of that! viewtopic.php?f=25&t=63426