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blueether

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Posts posted by blueether

  4. paratya curvirostris freshwater shrimp

    in Freshwater

    Posted

    The bio-load from 6 shrimp would be very little and I would be tempted to not worry about a cycle - especially if you have a good number of plants.

    I also wouldn't use conditioner in a tank for inverts, have read that many don't like them and have had a koura die the day after a waterchange with conditioner in it - It is a bit of a catch 22 in my native tank as smelt are very sensitive to chlorine and I lost about 12 one w/c and have had them 'floating' after another. After the w/c that left them floating/darting I rushed down to the LFSand grabbed some conditioner and within 10min they were almost recovered.

  5. paratya curvirostris freshwater shrimp

    in Freshwater

    Posted

    I have my doubts that anything sold as Lilaeopsis novae-zelandiae is the real thing going on the pics on niwa and other scientific type sites, and on niwa's site:

    Leaves are linear and cylindrical with reddish-black septae (cross walls). Grows on

    margins of water bodies with short curved leaves, but submerged leaves are longer

    and more erect. Flowers in clusters (2 – 9) on a short stalk. Petals white to pink.

    (N.B. this is a true native of New Zealand, whereas the plant commonly sold in the

    trade under the same name is Lilaeopsis brasilensis, which is also suitable).

    I have in one of my tanks a self collected sample that matches the scientific description (or Lilaeopsis ruthiana)and it looks nothing like what is sold in shops.

  9. paratya curvirostris freshwater shrimp

    in Freshwater

    Posted

    I've kept a few in a small 15L tank for a while but as Sam said by the time you get some moss/plants there isn't much room left.

    30L odd would be a good size. I would add a bit of driftwood, riversand substrate and some plants like Hydrocotyle spp, Hygrophila polysperma, Ludwigia repens etc (most of the plants that you will find in the Waikato are pest plants). They do like a bit of flow but not too much so an air stone should do fine. As for temp - they will die at about 26 deg and will only have a short life at temps above 23-25, but saying that some people clam that the do fine at 25-26 deg. The eat detritus and bio-films (algae and bacteria) so little extra feeding is needed in an established tank but a few grains of fish food wouldn't go amiss.

    As the male ages it under goes a sex change to female - so any that are over about 15mm? * will be female. Females that are in berry (carrying eggs) don't tend to do well in the aquarium and die quite fast after losing their eggs. The young larvae have to go to sea so I don't believe that they have been breed in the home aquarium.

    * Cant remember the size off the top of my head but think it was around that size.

  13. Tanks too hot?

    in The Off Topic Fishroom

    Posted

    2x1x1 ft unheated Guppy/Leopard fish tank 26.4 deg

    2x1x1 ft temp set at 22 deg Guppy/WCMM/Cory tank 25.0

    160L unheated temperate marine (just started to cycle on w/e) 25.1 deg

    340L chilled native set for 19 deg on chiller (I know that it's temp is 1-2 deg out) at 18.2 deg

    ~15L brineshrimp tank 27.4 deg

    Room temp 29 atm

  17. Tanks too hot?

    in The Off Topic Fishroom

    Posted

    Power still draws if its plugged in, just like other electircal stuff. Most of my tanks have 2 heaters in them, I unplug one over summer and plus it back in mid Aprilish

    How do they still draw, the thermostat is just a switch, like a light switch and lights dont use power when not light do they?

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