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tetra_nz

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Everything posted by tetra_nz

  1. I got aquaworld to import it for me. I also entertained the idea of hiring a quarantine tank, that way you get to choose exactly which farm you want to buy your fish from. However i think it's more straight forward to ask somebody with quarantine facilities to import a fish for you.
  2. Adrienne, it's somewhere between 250 and 300mm, eating hikari sticks and prawns. David, it's a "24k cross back golden", (such a tacky name, especially the "24k" haha). Supposed to be a gold-base fish, but I'm starting to think maybe it's a blue-base, given such a prominent blue hue even with light background. Fish is from a Singaporean farm. This fish is not from redwood aquatics.
  3. It is a golden arowana according to the farm where it was bred.
  4. Just wanted to share a couple of pictures. All pictures taken under natural sunlight only. Enjoy!
  5. Sorry to revive such an old thread. I was wanting to get a asian arowana earlier this yr but life got in the way so didn't end up getting one. I'm once again looking for an asian arowana. 1. Anybody keen to jointly buy arowanas to save on shipping and split quarantine fees? 2. Anybody know of retailers in nz who can get in asian arowanas? Approx how much would an RTG cost if bought from a retailer in nz? Thanks
  6. Thanks for the advice. To be honest I'm not too fussed on the colour. For the same price I'd probably take a green with what I think is a nice body shape over a red with a slightly poor body shape (blasphemy, I know ) How did you manage to source your green David R?
  7. Really? I don't think they do greens. Correct me if I'm wrong but i'm pretty sure they only do golds and reds
  8. Hi, I'm looking to get an asian arowana. Looking for maybe a Green. Willing to pay up to 1k. How do I go about sourcing one? Thank you!
  9. The kh and pH should not have changed in response to your removing rock. kh depletes gradually with time, and I think your low pH is the result of the low kh. Your pH is critically low at the moment so you better do something about that! So you are going to have 2 tanks now? Or you transferring everything to the new tank?
  10. If you don't plan to overstock (for 80L) I see no problem cutting down the rock by 30%.
  11. Like the scape, but if I were you I would make sure none of the rock is touching the glass. Coralline alage will grow on the glass, and having rock placed closely to the glass will make scraping very tricky.
  12. tetra_nz

    New 60l

    Interesting setup! So what's the plan for livestock?
  13. After rock displacement etc you could keep one small fish like a fire goby, but not a bigger fish like an ocellaris clown. Unless you are willing to test parameters almost every, don't add corals. 10g of water will not remain stable enough. It's much easier to start off with a bigger tank.
  14. tetra_nz

    New 60l

    amount of rock looks good
  15. Nice setup! I would advise against having the damsel. They are really aggressive and will harass the much more peaceful clowns. I've seen damsels bite onto the fin of a clown and not letting go! If your tank is covered, then consider gobies like the firefish.
  16. I've used both API and salifert. I think for the purposes of a FOWLR, API would be more than adequate. If money is no issue at all, then go for salifert. Magnesium, calcium etc are important because they influence the solubility of carbonates, which dictate pH, which affects clownfish. But you don't need to obsess over calcium, carbonate, magnesium levels like coral keepers do; just know that they affect your pH (and coralline growth )
  17. All the readings are expected. Don't test for GH, as GH is a measure of mostly calcium and magnesium ions. Most SW keepers keep calcium around 420 ppm and magnesium around 1250 ppm.
  18. I like the aquascape! :bounce:
  19. Yea def don't add the cleaner shrimp until parameters become stable. Cleaners are very hardy, but don't tolerate parameter swings. Clowns should be fine; they are just so hardy and can tolerate all sorts of crap. Reason why WC should be done on a stable system in the absence of nitrates, phosphates, and other commonly feared chemicals is because there are many things that we don't test for that could otherwise build up. Using a FW analogue, it's kinda like why WCs are vital for a tank of juvenile discus even when there are no nitrates if you know what I mean... Nano reef keepers also use WC as a chance to "top-up" elements like calcium, corbonates, magnesium etc. Even though you don't have corals, keeping these elements in check is still important (e.g. for the stabilization of pH)
  20. If you were keeping nothing but the clown then everything would be so easy! It would just be like keeping hardy FW species! But since shrimp are sensitive to nitrates, I would say that you need to be at least a little careful about nitrates. Giving the sponges a good rinse weekly sounds like a good idea to prevent the nitrates from creeping up. The more often you rinse the sponges, the better. Morcs I would be more than happy to spare a piece of LR, but unfortunately my current tank has a minimalistic aquascape design, and in order to achieve that I had to epoxy all my rock together so effectively, I have one big strangely shaped rock in my tank . I all honesty I think your tank should be super easy to maintain . Without corals you don't have to worry about lighting, dosing etc. If you do experience an algae bloom it's pretty easy to just take the pieces of rocks out, give them a good scrub (with salt water of course), and put them back without much trouble.
  21. Yea I think nano-reef is an awesome resource, I'm obsessed with that website LOL. You're right I don't think you will need to worry about WC for a while. After you're happy that everything is working fine and you've achieved the appropriate salinity, I think your priority would be to cycle the tank. I strongly suggest you pick a piece of live rock off somebody as this will speed things up tremendously, not to mention introduce some nice critters! Organisms like coralline algae wont grow if they weren't introduced to your tank in the first place! So will this be a fish only tank? It would be easier to give advice if I knew which direction you were headed
  22. Let it sit for a few days to make sure everything is working properly, check if tank overheats with your current setup, and get an idea of the evaporation rate. I really don't think overheating would be an issue at this time of the year. I also don't think evaporation will be significant since the tank has a hood. When you are happy that everything is working properly, I think you can chuck in a piece of live rock. :bounce: Oh and just to add, I think artificial seawater is much better if you have access to pure water and a good salt mix. You don't have to worry about malicious things being introduced into your tank!
  23. Depends on what type of rock you got. If it's quite porous (feels light compared with other rock) then it would be enough to support 1 or 2 clowns. I think it would be a good idea now for you to fill the tank with salt water, and get a piece of live rock from somebody to kick start your tank. If you go for a pair of clowns (an actual pair, as opposed to just any 2 clowns), I would say you are at your stocking limit. A fire goby is probably too timid to thrive in a little tank with an established clown pair. I think you could add a cleaner shrimp provided you don't mind your stomatella (beneficial snails) population being massacred What is marina water? Is it natural sea water?
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