amtiskaw
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Posts posted by amtiskaw
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I had a red tailed shark that was ok in a smaller tank. Moved him and the rest of the community to a 450 l tank, and he went psycho. Had to euthanize him in the end :tears:
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I've seen them on Kensfish I really wish you could program them. As far as I can tell you have to manually activate the modes like sunrise/sunset, is that right, David?
edit: oops, you beat me to it :facepalm:
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You can buy a jersey like Sarah Lund's for €280 ($462 NZD)
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It's hard to comprehend the amount of energy required to do something like that, let alone the energy released in an entire quake. Quite humbling really :-?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hr3HTkkpvtU. I wonder what the dynamic load limit was, and if it was being exceeded?
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"Hunting anyone?"
Not since the restraining order
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Not Brutus I hope?
+1 for Furan2, but I'd go see a vet asap and describe/show pics and get something stronger.
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Great pics
For those of you looking for settings, just right-click and save an image. Then you can right click the saved image and see the settings under the details tab. It helps having a nice bit of kit like an EOS 5D when the ISO is cranked up to 1600 !drool: -
Well done :dnc1:
Don't suppose you can tell us what the water parameters/lighting, etc, are? I'd love to have a go breeding Ottos :bounce:
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I'm a sucker for a nice bit of cake :digH:
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Computer UPS?
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Yeah, Sharknodo was cringe-inducing so-bad-it's-good-ness :dead%fish
Luther season 3 is "available". Episode three this week :bounce:
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I've had good results with a three day blackout. Remove as much BGA as you can manually, then totally cover the tank so no light gets to it (I use the garden rubbish sacks from the supermarket) and leave it for three days. No peeking! Then give it a good vac/water change.
Repeat a week later if there's still traces of BGA.
I tried the BGA remover from HFF, but it only reduced the BGA rather than removing it.
Long term, the cyano may come back, and you'll need to address the underlying cause (I agree with blueether on causes)
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I wonder if my fish will get bad teeth now there's no fluoride in Hams water? :nilly:
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I think you've got it round the wrong way, a change in hardness would be far more likely to alter the pH, but a change in pH isn't going to do anything to the hardness (though it could be a symptom of a change in hardness). If your tap water has a very low hardness (GH=0 you said?) then the pH will easily fluctuate due to any number of factors, and as long as the extremes are avoided it doesn't really matter. My old east Auckland tap water was very soft yet would come out of the tap off-the-scale blue (pH), after 24 hours in a barrel with an air stone, a heater and some prime it was back down to mid-sevens.
I agree with the wrong way round aspect, but my understanding is KH is what helps buffer against pH swings, not GH. GH does measure carbonate, but also several other minerals, so it's more accurate to consider KH when worrying about pH swings. Plus gemelee wants soft water...
gemelee - I wouldn't worry about a few degrees of KH. Every time I've tested Hams tap water the GH has been zero (as far as an API test kit can discern), so if your pH is stable then just keep doing what you're doing. If it isn't, then try raising your KH a few degrees. I run some lime chips in my filters to bump up the KH. There's a landscape supplies place in Frankton that'll sell you a few handfuls for a dollar. It takes a bit of trial an error to figure out how much you need, but they last for ages and ages. If lime chip don't raise it enough you can try crushed shells, which have more surface area. The same place sells them too.
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What are KH and GH? I'd only ever heard of PH. Is it something I should get a water test for?
This link should explain it
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So the kh has gone from 0 to 3? Will this affect my fish in anyway?
It's been ages since I last tested, so I can't say if this is a sudden change.
If anything it's good for your fish, as higher KH helps buffer against pH changes.
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this has to have made its way onto here at some point, its so good!
:slfg: at 1:00
Just went on a half hour Ze Frank binge on Youtube, he's hilarious :rolfl:
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Just tested with my API kit - KH=3 and GH=0. My pH meter is at a friends place at the moment. Last time I tested the KH was zero as well.
Seems about right for Hams, soft and lots of phosphate
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Nice work. Can I claim dibs on 6 @ $10 each then?
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Sharknado is on telly in the U.S tonight, so should be on the torrents tomorrow.
Is exactly what it sounds like, a movie about a tornado full of sharks :rolfl:
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Can't help, sorry &c:ry Hopefully some of the more experienced members will chime in.
They are cool fish, I have six of them. Good luck with yours
Edit: I did a bit of google-foo, and dropsy doesn't always have protruding scales as a symptom, so it could be dropsy. You could try the standard dropsy treatment of epsom salts. It helps relieve pressure by drawing excess fluid out of the fishes tissues and cavities. But you'd only be treating a symptom, and sadly, most times treatment is ineffective. Furan2 might help, it's an anti-bacterial you can get from fish shops.
Another cause of swelling is constipation. Try feeding it shelled peas and see if it helps.
I'm no expert though, I've just been researching on the web. Good luck
Black-lined Flying-fox behaviour
in Freshwater
Posted
SAEs are much more placid, although they do better in schools of >3 My 4 are fine in my community tank. They are a little aggro at feeding time - no nipping or anything, they just swoop in at great speed and don't show any fear. They still graze algae most of the day, even after a feed of flakes or bloodworms.
If the OPs fish is a genuine SAE I'll take it