lduncan

Yeah, you can use the new version calculator here: http://reef.diesyst.com/ You can work out exactly how much to dose. No need to guess like you have to with reactors.

Yeah, I know the thermodynamics never works out for this stuff. But the fact that they can use RF to split high energy chemical bonds, in contrast to the typical electrolysis methods is interesting.

That's just a little baby skimmer. This is what you really need (complete with cleaning lady ):

It's kind of saltwater related: http://s179.photobucket.com/albums/w297 ... 3a9daf.flv An interesting discovery, I wonder how it works?

... only, sometimes it takes some people a couple of years to see it.

I always make sense.

The one thing I would say is that often people get carried away with doing something because that's the way most other people do it. Two questions to ask for every decision you make is: Why am I doing it this way? And is it the best way for me, or is there a better way to achieve what I want? While there are many ways to skin a cat, some are messier than others ;-) Read and ask questions. The more exposure you have to different ways of doing things, the better position you are to get things right the first time. Layton

I would add, however, that books are a good reference for corals, fish, and the rundown of basic equipment. But as far as philosophies and methods go, i'm yet to find one with accurate upto date information. Honestly, for that sort of information, you're best bet is to read forums and ask questions. Layton

Plenty of room for coral grow out. I like it. Layton

The main problem with gravity drip, is that as the liquid level in the container drops, the head height decreases and the drip rate decreases. The best thing to do, would be take the money you were going to spend on a reactor CO2 bottle and regulator etc, and get a couple of dosing pumps instead and automate it. (More than likely you'll have a fair amount of money left over too) On a small tank you can premix enough of the solutions to last for years, without remixing. Layton

Basically it's dead coral skeletons. It's a porous medium for bacteria to colonise. But mostly it's a place to put corals. You don't really need that much rock to house the bacteria you want. So usually the amount you need is determined by how much space you want to put corals on. The bacteria in it do a variety of functions, each to different extents, from detoxifying ammonia, reducing nitrate, storing phosphate, and also producing ammonia from nitrate... plus much more. Layton

If you can keep up with demand using kalk, then that's a good way. However if you find you don't have enough evaporation to supply cal / alk by kalk, then I would recommend a two part dosing system over a calcium reactor. My rational for this is in my post halfway down this page: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/4-vt16 ... c&start=45 Layton

Nano tanks are not very forgiving for someone starting out in the hobby. The small water volume means that water chemistry can change quickly and can negatively effect corals inparticular if the changes aren't good. The larger water volume in bigger tanks buffers these changes, so they usually happen slower. So I'd recommend a larger tank if possible. However, it can be done successfully, if you read plenty and have a good plan and understanding before you purchase anything. Understand that you will be limited by a nano in the fish you can keep. The ocellaris clowns are good option for small tanks. Some other fish might be gobies, hawkfish, small cardinals, firefish. A good protein skimmer is essential, you get what you pay for here. This is you're single most important piece filtration equipment. Don't use canister filters, wet/dry or any other filters used in freshwater systems, they're not useful, and can be detrimental. On the bacterial side, a couple of bits of live rock are more than enough. Lighting, the best option for a nano is T5 lighting. It will allow you to keep almost any type of coral. Metal halide is an option used on larger tanks, but the put out a lot of heat, and can overheat a nano quickly, so they are usually not used. Halides do have the nice effect of glimmer lines in the tank, which T5's do not. Generally with T5's you'd have a mix of 6,500k and actinic, but that mainly personal preference. Substrate, a couple of options. You can go with no substrate at all (barebottom). The advantage in this is that you can see exactly how dirty the tank is at anytime. You know when it's not clean and you need to do some maintenance. Or you can opt for a carbonate based sand. If I was to have sand, i'd go with a largish grain size 3-5mm so that you can vacuum it clean without losing it all. It's important to keep the sand very clean to avoid buildup of nutrients which fuels unsightly algae. Salt. I use either standard Red Sea or Instant Ocean, both are fine. You'll need some test kits. Salifert are the best value for money suitable for marine testing. Ammonia, nitrite, while starting out. And nitrate, phosphate, magnesium, and alkalinity long term if you're keeping corals. pH isn't generally of concern, proper alkalinity level take care of pH in all but exceptional situations. Anemones get large and will outgrow a nano quickly. Best to stick with soft corals, like capenalla, xenia, and maybe LPS like in this thread: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/out-wi ... 21118.html Layton

Back live again. Some nice tanks there. I especially like ones which give acro's the space to grow out into decent sizes kind of like this one:

That happens everynight for an hour or so. Stops the site falling over under the load. ;-)

This is VERY bad news. Importers are struggling to get ANY shipments cleared in Christchurch, for a number of reasons, (not necessarily directly related to this). Authorities are refusing to release shipments from two importers here. The GM factor also makes it even worse from a public perception point of view (whatever the real risks are). This won't help...

Yeah, its a rare colour morph of a yellow tang. Nice triggers.

Very clean and professional.

Another good use for UV... It splits the chem warefare organic molecules produced by corals, rendering them ineffective. Much better solution than carbon in my opinion. Layton

Maybe I shouldn't have skim read it

I agree, just use baking soda. Red Sea buffer, is essentially just a mix of baking soda, and washing soda. So it's all carbonate alk. (Seachem seem to be the main offenders in boosting borate alkalinity, which is not detected by most test kits) Yeah, double check that alk reading with another test kit. Seems to be very low. What brand test kit are you using now? Sure bacteria can be fairly large consumers of alk, but with nothing else in the tank, I doubt they have used it at a rate to bring the alk down that much. Also are you using NSW or ASW? What's your salinity at? Layton

I saw that on TRT earlier today. A veteran keeper in the States, he was involved with Terry Siegal and Aquarium Frontiers magazine, which has since morphed into the current Advanced Aquarist magazine.

Yeah, I like the rockwork too... but my pet hate, is those blue backgrounds , I much prefer black or grey. Layton

A. austera: Hard to see but most likely A. formosa: Probably A. prostrata rather than A. millepora (thinner branches, uniform radial corralites) : Probably A. polystoma : Layton

Talk to Tim http://www.insideoceans.co.nz