lduncan

Don't you just love software projects... there is always just one more thing to fix! Looks like we're all a bunch of computer geeks here. Chimera, Pies, Me. Layton

Yeah, I don't bother correcting people any more, everyone does it. Layton

The sand isn't that fine. Layton

Barebottom is a good methodology, really came about as a response to research done on sand beds, and nutrient cycles they go through. Since my tank move, the display has been sand less, and it's amazing the amount of detritus and crap which accumulates on the bottom. The only reason for no sand is really because I haven't got around to putting it in. I don't really like the look of barebottom tanks either. Layton

Pies, it doesn't help download time at all, it just makes the pic show on small screen resolutions without having to scroll.

FNZAS has a little embedded javascript to resize images on the fly. Take a look at the page source. For all those people with lower resolutions. The tanks looking great Pies. How's that purple acro looking? PM and i'll sort out some frags for you. Layton

That would be rust

I think it will more than likely make your tank look better, but WAY too risky for my liking, there is potential for damage, and there are too many uncontrollable variables involved. I also don't believe it is healthy for corals either. This is assuming my theory is what actually happens. Layton

it's one group, there are others though.

My theory: The metals contained within zeolites, including iron and aluminium provide one food source for metal eating bacteria, which create a biofilm around the zeolite, which in turn creates a micro environment for sulfur reducing bacteria (Desulfovibrio species) which produce (among other things) hydrogen sulfide. Which kills algae, and aparently some by products can interfere with the cadmium reduction method used for testing nitrate. Zeofood i think also plays a big part in promoting the growth of these metal eating bacteria, by providing acetate which is readily used by them. Of course, just a theory. Have fun researching that, there is some interesting stuff about those metal eating bacteria. Layton

You would believe Habib over me?! He didn't provide evidence, just said it. I said it was because that "free" iron was bound with organics or in small amounts as iron hydroxide, that was good enough explanation to me. However, it you were say to add an unchelated (unbound) iron solution to your tank, then yes you would get rust (hydrated iron oxide, iron oxide/hydroxide whatever you want to call it) precipitating. I also said the paper doesn't have MUCH relevance, not any. Mainly because the processes i think are going on are different to what is described there, and have some nasty by products. Layton

Hard question. Kelvin ratings are not standard across all manufacturers. Trial and error seems to be the way to find the bulb you like best. Everyone's taste is different. Layton

I'll give you a token 1/2 brownie point. Because I did say that iron in tanks was bound organically or in small amounts as Fe(OH)2. For what it's worth wasp, i don't think that paper has much relevance to how zeovit works. Layton

Like i've said for a while now, adding bacteria is a waste of time. It really doesn't surprise me that they have found nothing other than a few soluble compounds (although not really conclusive). The key to the system is a couple of different bacteria strains (already present in our tanks in tiny populations), the zeolite, zeofood, and good maintenance.

:lol: Those zeoheads aye, they're all crazy!

For our purposes you can consider them to be the same thing. Total alkalinity includes other buffering salts like borates, as well as the usual carbonate / hydrogen carbonate ions.

I'd run the skimmer outlet through it. It will help prevent the bed filling as quick with detritus. Layton

Don't know, but it's typical silica beach sand sized grains. Flow rate is the amount of water being pumped into the tank it is in. Layton

Mine is 2" of river sand (well washed), and has done a great job in reducing nitrates. It's roughly 2 square foot, which would make it 1/3 of the area of my tank. Flow rate is around 200-300L per hour through it. Just a warning though, as great as they are, they are bound to "crash" at some point, releasing phosphates. The trick is to know when to fold, and dump it and start from scratch. How do you tell? I have no idea.

Interesting... http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=510427

Hey Pies go here www.nzreefs.com/phpBB2 i've got 500 meg of space so you can upload to your hearts content. It's my new website, despite the look of it, it is intended more as a library of information than a discussion forum, but feel free to post anything you want. You can upload files into the "Wellington" section. I just started it yesterday, so there is a lot of work to do on it. Those regional forums, allow people to create their own thread, but only the thread starter can post replies in it. So people can use it as a tank log of sorts. Layton

1. Maybe 2. Don't know. I don't think that is what the manufacturer claims it does.

You know what I mean. What about purigen?

Wasp, don't stoop to RC regurge. So, unusually low zooxanthellae levels in corals is not a problem? Overdosing of what? What does a normal dosing do, keep the corals at the brink of death?