Pies

All the plumbing here is in both (metric and imperial) so no biggie. Whats the verdict? I am thinking of having just 1 bigger hole (40mm) to do the whole tank, as opposed to 2x 30 (or 35mm), but not sure yet. Can't seem to make my mind up! Pieman

Chimera - Last time I give you this link: www.reefcentral.com it has a calculator for hole size. Bends don't make any difference. Pies

I buy my plumbing from Mico, their service is A1 shite down here too...

Mine was sucking up about 600mm but it could easliy suck more, the only thing is that it must be 'wet' to start, it can't self prime. Easy to do. Since your starting out though, drill it. Easier and safer.

Steve - If you don't know, you'll never know

Mine was an hr late... Yes some do run on time, but its my experance that its only the ones you are running late for...

Just got back in, missed my first flight (1 too many beers in the Koru Club, opps), 2nd flight delayed. Typical. Lovley weather you guys have...

Going to have to agree with Alois on this one, which a mess for a new setup, excessive and un-nessessary. 3/10. The tank with the plumbing accross the top of the tank is also shocking. 1/10. Plumbing is expensive too, what a waste. The flexible hosing is something I was looking at, but there are issues with the way it attaches to Pressure Piping, and is not 'rated' for any pressure in that configuration, it needs to be attached to 'bayonet' style attachments with hose clamps. Thats straight from the horses mounth (Mico Plumbing) when I questioned them about its use last week. To dangerous for me.

Don't dissagree with that one iota (eye oat ahhh).

A tap is a must, otherwise when you lift it off it dribbles everywhere! I would put it about 1/2 up the cup, but my factory is right in the bottom, which means its always fill of gunk up to the tap for day to day and is harder to clean. Piemania

Will be in Auckland tommorow, but no time to visit. However I will be back for the 1st week of next month (including the preceding weekend). I will make the rounds and visit Steve, Nick and a few others if I can find the time. Let me know if your about and we can organise a meet somewhere (Chimera?), even if I don't get a chance to visit your setup. Always good to put a name to a face (OK not always, but true in my case Pies

The bend increases the pressure but not because of friction, its got little to do with the water rubbing against the walls of the pipe. If it was a 'closed loop' pump (pump gets equal pressure from the intake as oposed to working against gravity in a sump return) the number of bends and elbows doesn't make any difference to the water flow at all, friction is the only factor that slows things down. Pies

Looks reasonable. 2 questions 1 comment 2 observation. Question - Why have the drip tray for the Ca/Nitrate why not just stick it in the sump? Question - Is the skimmer in the sump? If not, how do you feed the skimmer (obviously via a pump, where is it?). Comment- Because of the 'cascade' you create, the bottom sump controls the 'water level' (that is water added or removed will only effect the level in the bottom sump). Using your water change (drain) tap into the sink, you will not be able change out more than the volume of the 3ft tank (which in reality will be a lot less than this volume). Comment2 - Maybee not in your diagram but you will want to think about baffles in the sump (which will reduce the water change capacity). You should at least have 1 baffle for the heaters to ensure they are always submerged. Observation - I think you skimmer is in the wrong place. It is counter productive to have the skimmer after the refugium. Any goodness that escapes the 'fuge will be skimmed out by the skimmer before entering the main tank. I belive the skimmer should be placed before (feeding) the refugium. Awesome diagram, its obvious you have given things a lot of thought, and done a lot of planing. I am sure it will pay off for you, good luck and well done. I like it Pies

Layton - no.

Friction is not the right word, resistance maybee. Iwaki/Grunfos (sp) have a reputation is the aquirum trade for being able to shift large volumes of water at increased head, something that hobby pumps are not able to do as efficiently. I have no experance with the OR pumps, and people use them a lot of UR for closed loops and sump returns for under cabinet sumps. Not sure that many (not many if any) people use these style of pumps in remote sumps. You don't need to drill a hole to run external pumps, but they will work better if not 'sucking' from the inlet, but you can run them inline by dragging the water up. I have read that this causes cavitations (and thus air bubbles in the water stream) but have not experanced this my self. Big PUMPS! Pieump

My APF 850 (now in the possession of Nick S) had a DIY hole, my new APF902 had a factory hole. Personally I find them to be a real pain, especially when you do get around to cleaning it, as its messy and drips through the hose. Everything Steve said is right. HOWEVER - While in Fiji for over 2 weeks I did 'engage' the overflow system into a 1.5 coke bottle. Just meant that my 'tank minder' didn't have to deal with the skimmer, which as you know needs to be shut off when its emptied. I didn't want him to do it. So they do have a use (or for me). I clean out my skimmer cup every Saturday or Sunday. Its a horrid mess, when I move onto the new tank (and have access to the sink downstairs) I am going to make an effort to do it twice a week. Pies

Not sure if nick is right, as friction doesn't make much difference from what I have read. However turns (elbows and 45s and Ts) do effect the Head. Personally I would use an BIG enternal pump, Iwaki etc. There are a few around 2nd hand, they have a good reputation and don't tranferr heat anywhere near as much. I know you have a chiller, but still... My 740ltr reef got about 7000 an hr (2x Ehiem 1262s) and worked well. Remember the sump pump and sea swirl work together, so the more the sump return is doing, the more the sea swirl is doing. I'd be looking at 5000 ltr+. I want 8000+ for my new tank. Piemania

Ghetto. Do it once, do it right.

In the sump! That way if they leak, drip or stop working they can't cause any problems. I had an issue with my Zeovit reactor. All that equipment should go in the sump, or over it

I am using 2x 3/4 inch Sea Swirls, Nick S brought the 1" version recently. Sounds like a good price though. I have read that their is some noise from the 1" version, where ast rh 3/4 is completely silent. Confirm that with Nick, not sure where I read it. If the 1" is silent (noise prolly not an issue for you since tank in another room anyway) then its a factor of the return pump. Probably hard not to reccoment the 1" (can always throttle it at the injection point). Sea Swirls are cool 10/10. Make sure its setup for 240v not the 110 that the USA uses... Pies

In the sump!

Use the sea swirl, don't drill the sump return. You can always just use an 'up and over' for the short term untill you have the $. If you drill it, ou will be left with a hole with no where to go once you install the sea swirl. I still would consider moving hte plumbing down. It will stick out like dogs bits back or not. Pies

Another thought. Your tank is 1500 long, which is fine, but if you can make it another 40 long you will find that 5ft fluros/t5 fit easier. 1500 is going to be tight. A few more ml makes things a lot easier. I made my tank 1600 long for the exact reason, give me some room for my 5ft T5s. Pies

You are much better having the holes through the bottom of the tank, or if on the sides nearer the bottom. As holes are brought higher, the glass is moving more (bowing) so holes could have a negitive impact of the strength of the glass (creating a weak spot to start a crack). If it was me, I would be drilling in such a way that I couldn't see the intakes and exausts. The big advantage of drilling is to hide the plumbing. How big is hole 'G'? I suspect the ideal size for the closed loops is 20mm (Eheim 1260/1262). The sump return should be 25mm and the overflow should be 30-35 (or bigger if you can swing it). If you are not using a sea swirl to feed the tank and are going to drill. Why not drill 2 'returns' and put a 'T' joint or a 2nd SCWD to create more flows? Just a thought. If you are going to use a big pump (say 5000+) then it may be a good idea to split it off. If your going to use a Sea Swirl (reccomended) then no need as the current from the big pump will sweep the tank and create 'true' randomness to the current as the sweeing current intersects. Very cool. Looking good though, right on track.

I don't think you will see much difference between the T5s and NO fluros. Why not use the NO fluros for now, and then revisit lighting when you know exactly what it is your going to do? Save money now to better select lighting later. A lot of corals (mushrooms, leathers etc) should be OK under NOs. It will cut out SPS corals and anemones, but you will be able to have some LPS which typically prefur less light anyway. Pie