Pies

Nice work Yeah I have zillions of them at the moment, my tank is 700ltr and therer is over 120kg of live rock in there, so heaps of places for them to hide. Aipstasia is just one of those things... Trickle filters are EXCELLENT in freshwater, a much better place for it. Do you have any fish in you tank yet? I STRONGLY suggest adding some hermit crabs and snails. lots. They will eat waste and algae, work the sand bed and generally help with the health of the ecosystem. You need LOTS of circulation for the marines. In my tank I have 1x 5000ltr return, 1x 3200ltr closed loop on a SCWD, 2x 1250ltr closed loops and a 400ltr powerhead, + overflows. And would like a little more water turnover, but more likley to use a 2nd return pump to work the overflows. (increases waterflow kinda). See above post on getting some phosphate remover too. Well worth it, algae can be a pain. I would also recomend getting some calcium and some Kalk. If you want a book, I STRONGLY reccomend "Natural Coral Reef Aquirum" or 'Corals' by Bourneman. Excellent and uptodate reference. Also www.reefcentral.com seems to be the best site bar none, but I also read all of www.thereefweb.com which was very helpful too. Good luck and cook those Aipstasia!

I personally would do it slowly but in all honesty it shouldn't really matter. Maybee you should leave it on for now, cause you will want to add somerock as a replacement for the bio-balls or whatever media is loaded in thetrickle. Anenome problem. These anenomesare called Aipstasia. And rightly you need to get rid of them. But its really hard work. If you cut or pull them off they will regenerate into 1or more new ones. also any bits that endup floating around will attach to the glass orrock and grow new too. There are only a few options to kill them. The first is with fish likeCopperband Butterflys... Notthe answer for you though. The other is with a Kalkwasser paste. Inject the paste with a syringe right into the stalk through its mouth. The Kalkwasser needs to be thick and concentrated. Also don'tdo more than afew a day acause of PH issues with the Kalk. I don't think you have Kalkwasser so you can use HOT HOT water. Use a Terkey baster or a syringe. Take the rock out, cook the anemone, scrub off whats left with a toothbrush and some running fresh water. Then replace the rock into the tank. I know it seemsextreme but they are hardwork. I am in theprocess of sourcing a Copperband for my own Aipstasa problem. I am gettingboredof killing them, and they keep commingback! Eat em out I rekkon! Good luck. Pies

Thanks for that! I know pwoplw who use the hot water method as well as the KALKWASSER paste. Both are a real pain but I guess there is litte you can do but try and stay on top of it! I am thinking about getting a copperband butterfly. He/she will eat them! But I hear mixed things about this fish. Your thoughts? Thx Pies

Get into it Aqua! hehehehe. I love my marine tank so much, I am planing to dump ALL of my freshwater interest and just have the 1 marine tank (+ sump + refuge etc). Its more 'exciting', but its a serious investment in both money and time. Anyone who is in Wellington and wants to see is more than welcome. One thing to note about reefkeeping (maybee not quite so true for fish only) is the need for stability. And by that I mean owning a house or never moving from where you are Pies

I've kept butterfly fish in a comunity wity pieceful fish no problems. They are quite weird looking but very boring (they spend most their time idle at the top). you are right about the food. I fed mine on fruit flys, mossie larvie etc. They would ocasionaly take frozen foods but basically they were a real haslte and I was glad to be rid of them. Worth a try but if your not prepared to feed live food most days forget it. Pies BTW Don't those Ghost Knife fish get big? Ive seen a knife fish (not the ghost, the grey one with the spots) and it was an easy 2ft long.

I dose 2ml every 4 hrs. I use a mix of iron, potassim and some storebrought snakeoils. Works perfectly. Also use c02. Pies

Well just thought i'd let people know where I am at. Tank is finished and in place. Just under 700 ltrs. Skimmer is plumbed in and running. A temp sump is in place and running. Hope to finish the larger sump (3ft glass fishtank with back and side replaced with acyrilic) and have it running this week but am moreinterested in finishing the lighting frame 1st. Lighting Frame. Wooden frame will sit on top of the tank and hold the T5 lights and also provde a banner for the Metal Halide pendant to hand from. The tank is full of LIVE ROCK! This rock was purchased 2nd from Auckalnd. This rock is mostly purple with corline algae and full of worms, copods etc! Also some AIPSTASIA Not sure what to do about these little fuxors. The rock was also covered in blue/green mushroom corals! And some have grown, some have moved. This is over 30 in the tank! I have purched 2 Percula Clownfish (pair) and 4 rocks with Coral. 1x Zooanthid, 2x not sures & 1x Calutrea (Candy Cane or Trumpet). I also have a pink brain but it died within a day (was in VERY bad shape when I got it). I am topping up with about 3L of KALKWASSER made from RO water every day. I am adding about 5ml of SALIFERT Coral Food every day and 1 squirt of SALIFERT Calcium every week. Water: Calcium - 400. I havn't tried to increase this at all, 400 is good, and cause I have nothing that can really use it other than the corline algae i'll just keep up as is for now. Salinity - 1.026. Am taking this down slowly. Aiming for .024 MAX. I had this down to .024 but run out of DI water and there was a few days between that and getting my own RO unit. Nitrite - 0. This is excellent and just shows how good the rock I brought was. Nitrate - 1.5ppm. This is actually PERFECT for saltwater. I am aiming for 0 Nitrates but am using ocean water so this reflects its natural pressence. When I plumb in the new sump it will have a PLENUM built into it, and that should act as a NIRATE export filter. Soon... Phosphate: Detectible, but just. I am using some SALIFERT phosphate remover now (half a containter, wraped in a stocking and filterwool droped in the sump). I am also using some filter wool over the tank sump drains to catch Diatom. Since I did this the tank water is cleaner and less algae has grown. Thats it! Most things in the tank are getting Corline algae on them, a very fine dusting. There is brown Algae all over the place (Diatoms, to be expected) and some green filimentis algae too, mostly on the back glass. I am leaving most of this there. Its easy to clean it off the glass so I figure if it has to grow, it can grow there I also built a reef rack to put a lot of rock on (keeps it off the floor, better cirulation and makes it look like you have more rock!). I am 100% happy with the tank, but have also found a 1000 things I would di differently if I could start over. Tank project 2 has already started in the back of my mind Cheers! Pies

This unit has an RTC membrane. It sounds like a failry 'common' unit for here in Wellington. So its just a case of wait and see I guess? It is up and running now and ive been using it for about 5 days. I read somewhere about the micron rating of the membrane but I think you are right, there is no mention of it on mine, but the pre filter has a 5 micron rating. My DI should arrive this week and I will mount it all in the spare toilet in my garage. Cheers!

Yeah clams, anenomes, coral its all good You are spoilt in Chrischurch for choice! Compared to here anyway. Good luck with it. Remember to keep coral you need a little more technology (read money) to keep em alive. Its not like growing plants in freshwater, they are VERY delecate. Get into those hermit crabs. Don't add coral until you see coraline algae grow (its pink/red). If you have conditions to grow the corline algae, you can grow coral (rough rule of thumb). Good luck

Live sand is just a name given to sand that has little bugs etc in it. If its in the tank and the tank is healthy then it is 'live sand'. Just remember that you can't get live sand made of silicate, so buy your crushed coral don't get it from the beach 25 deg is spot on. I run mine at 24-25. Remember to cycle the tank. This will tankes months, but will be shortened by live rock & sand. Go to the local rock pools and get some snails and some hermit crabs. There work the sandbed and the rock, speed up the cycle process and clean up algae and waste! So they are all good. Get maybee 10-15 crabs and the same in snails. I only know one person who uses salt mix over natural sea water. Just remember to get it somewhere clean and free of man made poultants. EVAPORATION is a killer for the un-suspecting marine aquarist. Get a refractometer or a hydromenter (cheaper less accurate) to measure the salt content. Should be no higher than .026 with .021 - .024 being spot on. If you do evaporate water you will need to top up with FRESH WATER not salt. And this should be RO/DI water. You can use tap water/rainwater but it will contain minerals etc that will feed algae. Be careful there. Are you planing on keeping coral (thus turning it into a reef) or jsut fish? If you want coral best save up for some SUPER lighting etc. You can go fish only and add coral later once you are ready for the added expense that reefkeeping brings. Last note on cirulation. Get as many power heads as you can afford and put them in. Or use pumps in a 'closed loop' configuration (this is better I think, cheaper in the long run and less 'obvious' in the tank. Some people look at turning over the volume of their tank 30+ times an hour. So if you have a 200ltr tank you woul be looking at 6000ltrs of circulation. Live rock filtration mauy suffer without high circulation (at least 5x). Good luck Pies Pies

I brought one of the Stainless steel models with the exteranl therm control. Broke and leaked after 3 weeks. Returned it, no problem. Was told that it was a common problem and there was a new batch (with yellow stickers on them). Got it home and noticed there is now a sticker on the box saying 'don't use in saltwater'. Still sitting in the box, whish I brought another visitherm. Note the stainless steel ones at the Hutt Pet Centre are only $52.00 with discount for the 300 watt model. Pies

Couldn't agree less sorry Dogmatrix. I know someone with a $55,000.00 dollar Marine tank who only uses a protein skimmer. No budget contraints for him. Jane *my gf* has a 1600ltr marine tank at her work. No filter except a skimmer and live rock. I have set my own tank up (700ltr, 200ltr sump). I am only using a protein skimmer and some filter wool for 'diatom stop' on the tank drains. This was a design decision not a budget choice. I just don't want equipment that I don't need or that adds nothing. The trickle filter technology is OK. Many people use it with great success. You just don't need it if you are using lots of live rock. The worst thing about the trickle filter is you will need to clean and maintain it. You will NOT need to do this with you live rock. So drop the filter, if you think you need it you can always add it in later. But my Nitrites and Nitrates are both 0. My water is cristyal clear and my wild live is wild. 'More technology more biology' is the way with marines there days. The biggest decision is on weather to use a sand bed or not... Berlin vs Jabuert methods. I would reccomed dumping the trickle filter (if its built into the sump just use some rock insted of the bio balls). As for the sand. If its in the tank now it will be 'live sand'. I would also buy some crushed coral sand from somewhere like "Redwood Aquatics" in chch. Use the new sand for the base and 'dust' the top with your 'live sand'. The sand bed depletes over time and needs 'topping up' with new sand. The sand acts as a calcium and ph buffer. ALSO a good investment is building a 'reef rack'. Basicall just a plastic tray or box to put the live rock on. This allows for better circulation around the rock (making more bacteria) and stops dead spots in the sand bed. Put a spray bar or something under it. Anyway good luck with the marines. If you want to call to ask questions, 021 455 946 ask for mark. I am not an expert, but I am very well read and researched and have some thoughts to share if your interest (+ always good to know people to trade coral etc with!). I can think of a million mistakes i've made. But 99% of the advice I got was excellent and has saved me quite a lot. Also one thing to remember about a marine tank is that typically the most expenive option is the best one. So when you do your first shop get some activated carbon, and some Phosphate remover/killer. Are you going to use KALKWASSER? Are you going to use Natural Sea water? Do you have access to RO water or DI water? Cheers & goodluck! Pies

Kerry0. RAMS are all good in a comunity tank. I have 5 in mine, shareing space with cardinals, rummby noses, gourmas, big syndondas cats, loachs etc. Mine are 'Bolivian Blue Ram' or someshuch. 3-4cm long and look stunning at times.

Thanks for all the good info! Warren you are right, DI is VERY expensive and 200L for 1 2L cartridge sounds spot on. I rung around and most places said you would get 225ltrs of DI water from 2L of resin based on the Auckland water suply. The cheapest place I could find a DI unit was Vivendi in Auckalnd. $139.00 including fittings for taps etc. 2L of resin (refil) is $75.00. I have ordered one. RO. I have opted for an RO unit from WATERS here in Wellington. They have made me a 3 stage (5 micron pre filter, carbon filter & .5 micron RO membrane) all plumbed up and ready to go for $360.00. Most people for reef tanks use DI water and use the RO to get a better economy out of the DI. By using the RO to mostly filter the water, and the DI to get the rest. This way you get water over 99.5% (so I read on reefcentral.com) pure. So thats me! And thats why Cheers all!

I too was put off by the cost. But I don't regret it at all. Also I can assure you its not as expensive as you first think. Paying retail is bad, but there are other ways! Auckalnd reefkeeping is strong and there are lots of people who can import stuff or sell you 2nd hand. Halide. You 'need' the power for coral in deeper tanls (over 400ml). BUt if you have a shallower tank it would be fine, although you could never keep any SPS corals (Acopora spp). But if you don;t want hard coral then its no drama, and you can add it later if you think you need it. Fish and coral can be brought for a fraction of the retail cost if you know the right people. Also the Hutt per store will only put a small handeling fee (30%) on marine stuff including stock, so I think that represents great value as you will know if the fish are alive before paying for em! Talk to Graham. I now know 5 people here in Wellington doing Marine + me. So there are some people around, hope to run into more. SALT. Use ocean water. MUCH cheaper. MUCH. MUCH. I went to auckalnd and visited some people and have spoken to others. I have only met 1 person who using premix salt. EVERYONE else uses ocean water. I got mine from the south coast in 20l jerry cans. Forget premix salt, nothing is going to be better than REAL seawater. I have also added some snails (of which I know 2 died, 1 by a hairy yellow crab I got on some rock i think), some hermit crabs (AWESOME!) and some shrimp. 2 shrimp died, 2 still alive (eventually they will get skimmed... All crabs still going including a monster i put in the sump. Get into it. The more people who do it, the more likley that a shop will start to stock marines. ALSO a little birdy told me Jansens are opening a store in Wellington this year. And they have the ULTIMATE marine selection. And someone in Auckland has just brought a Lion Fish. SO they are around, if you REALLY want one and are patient (and a little dodgy). do it! Pies

Yeah but image you bulb replacement costs and running costs! 2000kw power 12hrs a day! OUCH. Metal halides are all the rage in reefdom. I have 4x 80w (5ft) T5s on my tank at the momnet. 500 Watts of Halides in the garage will go on this weekend. Its funny when I tested the lights my garage was lit up like daylight x10. Hard to image it on a fish tank... Don't be put off by the cost Ira. Do it! I have a feather duster worm, 2x clowns and lots of rock in my tank and its 10000x more interesting that my other 2 freshwater tanks. Hermit crabs, snails, worms, some coral (cheapies), calurpa. AWESOME!!!

I just purchased one of these! http://www.aquafauna.com/Refractometers.htm I was using a hydrometer (a professional aquirum use model), and it was telling me my salinity was .024/.025. The refractometer confirm .029. Am dropping it now. A FAR more accurate and convienant unit that the spinny wheel thingies or the submerge models. Check it out! Pies

Yeah I also know a few options for BLV 10000k and 14000K halides in 150 and 250 watt HQI double ended varitys. Wasn't sure if you wanted just bulbs or a whole unit. I have just purchased a double 250 watt pendant. And know some DIY options too if you want to save a few $. Those arcadia units are VERY nice, but some of them are $5,000.00. Not sure of your budget but are outside of mine. Let me know what you want as I should be able to help as just been through it all myself. Cost me $880.00 brand new. Could DIY for $800 or DIY 150watt x2 for 600 or 2nd hand for a little less. Pies

Yes I will be at 'conference'. I have approx 15 ltrs of RO water left. Using about 2.5ltr a day (evaporation). I may fix some temp lids to the tank and sump to reduce water evap but would rater not. Ajbroome: Thanks very much for your offer. Don't suppose you could make me up 100+ ltrs? :> I will call those numbers you gave me, thanks for that! I rung a few places and couldn't fund anything for less than $500 and thats without a DI unit (I would like RO/DI). Hopefully someone will have something cheaper. I would need less than 5L per day so doesn;t need to be a massive unit at all. Most units seem to be the 'under the sink' varity. Maybee there is a less 'consumer friendly' product about? You are also right about rain water, although it still needs to go through a DI unit. But I think i would prefur the stability and consistancy of the RO/DI soultion. Thanks for your offer, and if you can make me 100ltr + I would come to PN this weekend to pick up (I have 180ltrs of jerry cans!) help! Pies

Heya. I am in Wellington and am looking for a RO/DI unit. I've rund a few water purfirer places and can get a 3 stage RO unit for about $500. DI on top of that. Now all I know is I need pre filters and a membrane .5 microns. If you know anything about RO and know where I can get one cheaper please contact me. I don't want it plumbed into the house/kitchen, just onto a lead I can attach to the washing machine taps or something like that. Its for freshwater (Kalkwasser) topup in my Marine aquairum. Cheers Pies

With heaters its typical that the themistat goes long before the heater. As it has a 'moving part'. The way it works is that a piece of metal heats and 'clicks' to turn the heater on, the 'clicks' back to turn it off. Its like when you push the side of a coke can in and it pops out. Eventually the coke can fatigues and no longer 'clicks'. The best way to prolong the life of the heater is to reduce the wear on the thermistat. The most common mistake made is that people buy 300W heaters for small tanks cause they are only another $1-2 different - WOW its twice as big for only $1 more... Use a heater that is going to stay on more consistantly, therefore reducing the thermistat useage. Power consumption remains the same and typically water temprature remains more consistant... Pies

Thats a real shame about your tank. I've had some setbacks too, including a LEAK! ARghhhhhh. The problem with having holes drilled into the bottom of the tank I guess... Anyway hope its fixed now... Algae. I think this is the tuff one for a lot of people. Algae feeds on nutriants in the water. So you need to export them out. I think a planted refugium is the way to go, but calurpa in the main tank will work as well. Also if you are puttting in fresh water to 'top up' don't use tap water. tap water is BAD and the cause of many algae issues. RO/DI is the answer here. Are you skimming? Also higher water flow means less algae, so wack a BIG return pump on the sump if you use one, or put in the biggest closed loop you can afford (I am going to use 3 closed loops, over 5000ltr hr circulation. If I can find the time I would love to come over.... Cheers gotta go back to work Mark

Yeah the DIY stand is OK. But I did fail school cert woodwork... The stand is made from 4by2s for the legs (6) and plywood. Would post some pivs but don't know how. Will have a www site up one eday soonish. The tank is DIY as well. 10mm all glass. 1600x700x650high, total about 700ltr. It has reinforcing accross the bottoms and 3 'bands' accross the top, but has no lid (open top for evaporation). Has holes drilled in the bottom and 2 overflows in each back corner (to drain into sump). I agree with what you said about MDF. MDF and water a really quite ppor mixes. I am sure they only use it cause its cheap and flat. I am getting the live rock 2nd hand from a guy who has been forced to break down his tank due to a marrage breakup. ITs all primo and only $10 a kg. ITs all purple (coraline algae), and in good condition. I hope to get about 100kg+ of it. A guy I met in Auckalnd has brought it for me and storing it in his sump till I get up there in a week. If I need more I can get some from Redwood Aquatics in Christchurch. They have some pacific ocean live rock (1 ton). $14kg. But i'll wait and see how this lasts. I 'may' have a friend commming up from Christchurch after easter, so if thats the case I'll have him bring some with him. Fish. I am not sure. I suspect to have to wait more than a month, possible 2. Because I am using REAL live rock cycle time will be greatly reduced. However i'll start with some hardy corals etc. There is also a financial issue too. I won't have much money for stock, so my inital fish will be 'cheapies' or maintenance fish. Clowns (percula probably) & a yellow tank will keep me happy til I have a little more $. Then its just sit back and enjoy. Save for the other bits (calcium reactor, RO/DI unit, computer, refugium etc). How exciting. Anyone in Wellington who would like to view that tank (and my freshwater too for that matter) is welcome. I live in Ngaio, Wellington. Pies

Well tank is finished! Stand is finished! & I have got about 400ltrs of salt water in the tank, about 15kg rock (smaller pieces) and 40kg sand/crushed coral. Had a few shrimp/co-pod thingies but they have all died, I suspect the increase in temprature (from 14-24). So now I am in panic mode. Will the tank hold? Is the stand level? Will the overflow/stand pipe work. Am loosing sleep.... ACK! So many things to consider... AM regreting my DIY tank and stand now. Should have had it made, would feel 'safer'. . . Tommorow night I get the last topup of water... Then on holiday for a week. When I come back I return with lighting, a skimmer, a return pump and over 100kg of LIVE ROCK! ITs nice to see it all come together finally. But still have a lot to worry about yet... So am getting closer to having it all come together. Now anyone out there who has marines and wants to donate coral etc let me know PEETY - hows you tank going? You were having problems last time we heard from ya. I'll be in Auckland (north shore) on Easter Saturday, so if your near there we should hook up. Cheers Pies

Warren. Yeah the T5s are 'all good', cept the price. A standard fluro tube is also known as a T12, a T5 is just smaller in diamater. You know those energy saving bulbs you can get for your house? Well they use a T5 tube. The T5 units come with Electronic ballasts, not the older 'coil' ballasts. They run cool and quiet. The ones I have purchased also come with snapon reflectors (like the ones arcadia make). I am also getting 6000k tubes and BLUE actinic 03 tubes (5ft fluro are about $45ea). There are 2 MAJOR advantages of T5 though. 1 is they are 10% brighter than Metal Halide lighting per watt. And about 40% cheaper to run than halides (similar to the cost of normal fluro). The other major advantage is that the bulbs have a usefull rated lifespan of 15000hrs (approx 4 years on a 12hr cycle). They are rated to light tanks up to 850mm in depth. Which is quite a bit deeper than standard fluro. They are all the rage in Europe, and now America is catching on, although they are very keen on the Power Compacts or VHO fluro. Pieman