rossco

I have two side by side. Green and purple. Both BTA. Didn't plan it that way but when can we ever plan where anemones end up? Sweet as. Keeps clown happy as he doesn't have to swim far between the two! He prefers brunettes though cause he always feeds the purple first and even flogs food off the green if he thinks it hasnt had enough. I have seen no reaction when they touch. You see far more when they touch corals that can give a reasonable zap.

Hi tel You must be over the whitespot outbreak to think about adding more tangs to your set up! :lol: I like tangs so have done a fair bit of research about how many and what combinations you can have. You might get away with having combinations of 'juvenile' tangs together but one day someone will decide they are grown up and want their own bedroom, and probably the keys to the tank. They are all little individuals...

Dumb question for the day - I thought 'fluidized' was mostly getting water flow around the media (cause you can see what appears to be the media largely unchanged in most reactors). From wasp's comments it seems the media itself substantially changes, not just the outer areas of the particles in contact with the acidic water What happens and how do we use this to best effect? :oops:

His name be Habib! He says the same about Stop Parasite...

I do...but also keep adding corals so it puts my dosing outa kilter sometimes. Tank (around 130 g) seems to need the equivalent of at least 2-3 litres of Kalkwasser daily to maintain levels. I add calcium to bring levels up occasionally.

Ain't this true for us all? :oops:

PeeBee is doing well. Eats almost anything that you feed and has grown heaps.

Hey Cracker get rid of that white lettuce lookin thing at the top - its blockin way too much light. Send it down here, I'll put it in our garden. :lol:

Yeah, I feel the same about test kits. I don't think I'm colour blind but its a bit of a guesstimate what colour it is sometimes but a big difference in pH!

Hi Fay It depends what you call 'feeding' your corals. I feed some form of frozen food once a day to the fish. Especially when its brine shrimp or similar I feed it with a big eye dropper over the top of corals. Different corals getting fed during the course of the week. They often only get the shreds but they seem to appreciate it, even the hammers and like. I would only intentionally feed corals closer about once a week. Even then they don't get a lot cause the fish/shrimps grab the bigger bits. I endorse the philosophy of feeding moderately but consistently. That way the system can balance itself. One rule for me is to rinse frozen food to toss out the real fine stuff. One thing I can do is fatten dragonets on all the greeblies!

More importantly - how's the fish? :-?

Hey Cracker, I'm up your way this weekend so I can take those anthias off your hands cause I know they must be a pain to feed several times a day! I thought you were more generous than that! :lol:

The part time farmer in me compares the stomach of fishies a bit like the stomach of cows. I would guess there is a fair bit less food value in things like nori that herbivores (yeah right) like tangs eat. Cows have very large stomachs cause they need a large capacity to process the volume of grass they need to live. Tangs are probably similar compared to carnivorous fish. Just to confuse myself entirely (and before another bright spark points it out) in the wild they are probably grazing most of the day so wouldn't need huge capacity . Don't think the eyeball rule of thumb applies as well to herbivore fish.

I've seen a few tanks with shrimps and Hawkfish in them. I would certainly start with a small hawkfish and LARGE shrimps though...

Yeah, I had a flying visit in the weekend. They seemed pretty cool fish. Their colours in photos dont do them justice.

You've been to see Ardie's shop again!!!! (and taken a fancy to something, again)

Yup, only trouble is shrimps are very sensitive to water parameters so if you do any of the other treatments you can't use shrimps!

How about a 'happy middle ground' ? Lower your salinity to around the 1.018 which is what a lot of our fish are held at in QT. Lower salinity (not hypo) is supposed to be easier on them when fighting off something, higher oxygenation, all that stuff. Then, worse case scenario, if WS does come back with a vengeance its not so far to drop your salinity to hypo either? If we are setting up new tanks and buying corals and fish I think its going to be pretty tough to keep our tanks WS 'free' even with lots of hypo and QT. Resistant fish is the ideal.

As in supporter that is...(damn I hate this non edit function)!

One would hope ZeovitNZ does!

I thought the same when my swingarm was measuring 1.024 but a refractrometer measured 1.030! Dunno why my corals weren't happy...

Depends on who you listen to! Recommended minimum is four weeks, preferably six. This is supposed to be enough time to encompass the vast majority of WS cycles and therefore break it completely. How long can they remain dormant for in the substrate etc - who really knows? This treatment however is pretty reliable to control outbreaks and set the population up to recover. Long term success? Depends on all the variables we tend manage only a fraction of every day in our tanks!

Nice fat looking PBT!

Everybody looking 'happier'? You should start to see a reduction in the incidence of whitespot.

Yup, I believe his old man is in management. He's getting the engineering student to do the design, build the 'prototype', test run, iron the kinks out, then he will get engineering student to replicate for his own tank and then take all the credit!