Glass dimensions and silicone thickness

[Damo]

Hi,

I have finally got my stand finished and it's looking awesome! I am now about to order my glass soon and need to know this.

How much space do I leave for the thickness of the silicone?

As the front and back will extend over the sides, the sides will need to be cut slightly smaller to allow room for the silicone. I'd presume about 1.5mm for each join? Is that right? Is there any way to know for sure?

Tank is goins to be 1500 long by 500 wide by 700 tall.

Thanks,

Damo.

[Alan]

Don't know what size the tank is, but this is how I cut my glass and glue it.

Tank size 1.200 Long x .600 Wide x .450 High

Base 1.2 x .600

Front and back 1.2 x .450

Ends (Width of base less the thickness of the front and back panels) x .450.

Also allow 1mm per joint, the panels should all then end up level with the edges of the base, all going well.

So if you were using 6mm glass the sides would be .450 - 12mm - 2mm = .436

Make sure that you use acetic cure silicon, and watch the ventilation while using it.

Hope this helps.

Alan 104

[Damo]

Thanks Alan. I'm using 10mm low iron glass and black silicone which I have on it's way from overseas. When you did yours, did you find that much pressure was needed to squeeze the silicone into place, eg. flat, even and to the right thickness of the 1mm you allowed for it?

Thanks,

Damo.

[Alan]

The weight of the glass will do the horizontal joints.

I have heard of ppl using matchsticks for packing and then removing them after the glue has set the filling the little gap.

The sides are just squeezed together to exude any air bubbles from the joint.

Being black, I'd be very inclined to use masking tape up the edges of the joints.

At least with clear, it is not so visual.

If you are doing the job yourself, plan first or get aid from someone that knows what they are doing,

and tip-of-the-day. DON'T BE MEAN WITH LAYING ON THE GLUE

Alan 104

[alanmin4304]

When I make tanks I cut the ends the same height as the front and back and the same width as the base minus the thickness of the front and back. Don't leave a gap between the glass, push them up tight and tape them in place with insulation tape until it cures. RTV is an adhesive and not a filler so you don't leave a gap and use it as a filler. You only need a thin bead between the glass so the joint is all glue and no air bubbles. It will look neater if you only have a small bead on the inside ( it doesn't do much structually,just looks better and is easier to clean the tank) RTV cures using the moisture in the air and then forms a waterproof skin, so if you use too much the inside will not cure and leaves it weak. Thats my tuppence.

[alanmin4304]

Check out the tanks imported from China, they are beautifully made, look realy good and use very little glue. I would hate to think what it would cost to get the edges polished here.

[Damo]

Hi Guys,

That is really helpful and I appreciate it very much. I have planned the construction in minute detail and will set everything up before hand and I'll have a few friends over to help too. Hopefully it'll all go smoothly. I am just working on my final measurements for the glass now.

By the way, how should I ask the glaziers to finish the edges?

Cheers,

Damo.

[Alan]

Save $$s and do it yourself.

I use a small emery stone called a spit stone, used for honing axes.Just need to take of that sharp slicing edge.

Alan 104

[Krissie]

are you still doing your tank or have you done it?

My Hubby is a Glazier and has built heaps of tanks, so he is happy to help with advice etc.

cheers

[lifespeachy]

I have an Aquaman Aquarium, Made in NZ, which has polished edges, & black silicone, beautifully made. If you want quality it's out there.