scrabble Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 just wondering if you people who have made a poly background cemented and resin(ed) the back as well as the front. If so, is there anything special I need to do when siliconing to the glass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 I didnt cement or resin the back of my background. i wouldn't think that the silicone would stick to it. its ok to leave bare poly on the back. i haven't had any troubles with mine YET Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 I don't see why bare polystyrene would be a problem as long as any plecos or similar can't get to it and possibly scrape it off and eat it. I bet most of the plastics used in tanks are polystyrene anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoon Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 it doesnt really matter i just painted mine the same colour as the front on the ones that used paint the cemix one i painted too the ones i used epoxy on i epoxied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simfish Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Can I please know curing time for these applicators and which ones are non toxic and safe to use. How long should I allow for this project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Just take your time and it should end up looking good. Resin will take about 24hrs to dry, give 48-72hrs to completely cure. Concrete is about 24hrs to fully cure if your using quick set cemix. Epoxy resin doesn't melt the poly or foam but polyurethene resin will. both resins are safe as long as you rinse and clean it enough before introducing fish, plants etc. in the time it takes to cycle your new tank and background, there should be no hazard of polluting your water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simfish Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Hi thanks for all the know how. I have a few nmore question if you don't mind as well as would love any other advice on do and dont's, as you guys have already tried and tested mothods already. My questions are as follows:- To paint it with Acrylic paint is that fine? What is the best way to shape the poly, I have heard of usig a spoon... how? How long would you need to allow for it to cure? Sticking poly together, which would be the best way. How would I fix the poly background to the back of the tank in order for it not ending up floating? I also found this article for anyone interested... http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/blog.php?blogid=86 Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Acrylic is fine and then a few coats of resin on top of that to seal it.(i have done this) Just drag and dig at the poly with the spoon/fork/knife. also soldering bolts work quickly but be careful because it melts fast! acrylic dries pretty quick. i found doing each step each day so everything has at least 12-24hrs to dry. F5 ados aerosol glue works well or any sort of epoxy glue will stick poly together. ( F5 ados is a red and blue can from any mitre10/mitre10mega/placemakers etc.) just use silicone to stick it into the tank. it shouldn't float out if you silicone right around the edges and a big cross on the back glass and/or sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simfish Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Thanks for the info. I spent the last few hours, running between, bunnings, mitre 10, resene and kings plant barn regarding painting with an acrylic paint from resene or dulux and this is what they had to say, "Our acrylic paints are designed for interior and external use and not under water. the paints are non toxic however have been treated with a fungus treatment, i.e. it has an agent which prevents fungus from growing on the paint which will there kill plants and have an effect on the fish." They where adamant about this to the point that the Dulux customer services person put me on hold and went back to their lab to confirm this." Plant barn had a pond paint which only comes in black, grey or white (thank god not gastly blue) however it is very expensive around $130,00 for about 2 litres. I am stuck on which is the best way and absolutely scared to just try a typical "non-toxic" paint. I can't afford to loose more than $300 worth of fish. Really need help to get to the bottom of this. Was thinking of trying Whitcoulls kids department tomorrow as one of the last resorts for the acrylic option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoon Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 thats what they would say ! even the manufactuors of the epoxies will say not to use it as they dont want to be responsible for any losses. ive used several different types of epoxy the cheapest one and easiest to use was equiss epistixx clear but doesnt set as hard as more solventy epoxies(a lot more expensive) but ive also used acylic house paint on its own and under epoxy and had no problems. this was all rockwork used for his backgrounds . you want low v.o.c. acylic and one without mould inhibitors. also another hint for carving is a heat gun to melt the poly or a pencil sized butane torch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simfish Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 Do you guys think going for quickdry cement option (no resin) waiting for the 24 curing period and then putting it into the shower, set the sprinkler head water to warm, starting it off and every 30min sprinkling salt on it to remove the lime would be maybe one of the fastest ways to stablise the PH? I came up with this idea on the weekend after reading alot of forums, etc. regarding using quickdry "cemix", cement / mortar mix (NZ product) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 Do you guys think going for quickdry cement option (no resin) waiting for the 24 curing period and then putting it into the shower, set the sprinkler head water to warm, starting it off and every 30min sprinkling salt on it to remove the lime would be maybe one of the fastest ways to stablise the PH? I came up with this idea on the weekend after reading alot of forums, etc. regarding using quickdry "cemix", cement / mortar mix (NZ product) Salt removes lime? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simfish Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 Yep, Rock Salt is the best... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted November 30, 2009 Report Share Posted November 30, 2009 I'm not sure if it would work as concrete still leaches out chemicals over a long period of time. So would probably continue to after you try wash it. you really need to seal it or you would have to float it in water for more than a month for a decent sized amount of concrete. but this is just my opinion. give it a go and let us know the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.