wasp Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 No it isn't. How are the tanks set up? As per your previous post with some rock and a skimmer? If so, is there enough flow, and is the rock properly cured? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 well it might just be the salt it looks cloudy compared to the freshwater tank near it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 You have only just mixed the salt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 no its seawater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 How long has the tank been set up. If the water was cloudy when you got it, then it should slowly clear over a day or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 i set it up last night with the skimmer there is some gunk in there already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 I've got a book here and just want to make sure these are right pH - 8.3 KH - 9 - 12 dKH Calcium - 420mg/L Phosphate - 0Img/L Ammonia - 0mg/L Nitrite - 0mg/L Nitrate - less than 3mg/L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 Well as long as there is decent current, and the rock is properly cured, you shouldn't have any issues. Just keep an eye on salinity, NZ seawater is already around 1.028, whereas the ideal for a reef tank is around 1.025. So just make sure it doesn't creep even higher with evaporation, or even add some fresh water to it to bring it to 1.025, you'll need to add about 10% fresh water to do that. Don't want to get too technical at this stage, but in a reef tank it can help to have alkalinity a little higher than seawater levels, and this can be done by adding baking soda (NOT baking powder). This can be done, at this stage, by dissolving some baking soda in the fresh water, when you add it. For starters, dissolve a heaped teaspoon baking soda for each 100 litres of water in the tank. You can add more again later but would pay to get a test kit before adding a second round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 Just keep an eye on salinity, NZ seawater is already around 1.028, whereas the ideal for a reef tank is around 1.025 how do i tell what it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 I've got a book here and just want to make sure these are right pH - 8.3 KH - 9 - 12 dKH Calcium - 420mg/L Phosphate - 0Img/L Ammonia - 0mg/L Nitrite - 0mg/L Nitrate - less than 3mg/L Yes that's more or less right but doesn't have to be adhered to exactly. Here is what I would consider a safe range pH 7.8 to 8.5 kH 6.5 to 12 calcium 360 to 450 phosphate 0.0 but depends how it's measured ammonia 0.0 nitrite 0.0 nitrate less than 40, but depends what you are keeping, but less, to zero, is best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 how do i tell what it is? You need a salinity tester. But for now, if it's new seawater that has not had any evaporation, assume the salinity is 1.028, and add 10% fresh water to bring it to around 1.025. Then draw a line on the tank and if it evaporates add more fresh water. But longer term you will need a salinity tester. There are 3 types available:- 1. a swing arm hydrometer. These are rubbish, don't buy one. 1. a floating hydrometer, give consistent and accurate readings but a little hard to read. 3. a looking glass hydrometer which you put a drop or two of water in, then look through like a telescope & you can see the reading. These are the best but will cost something around a hundred bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 a floating hydrometer, give consistent and accurate readings but a little hard to read. do these look like the floating glass thermometer with a long thin glass bit from the top. if so i have one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasp Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 Yes, that's it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 perfect will test it in the morning as its in the fishroom and im inside and so is the tank. its very cold and wet outside :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 just a thought wont it go flying around in the tank with all the water movement :-? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 turn the pumps off for a min or 2 or if you have a tube to float it in you can do this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2008 just did a test here are the results pH - 8.2 KH - 10 dKH Calcium - 420 mg/L Phosphate - 0.0 mg/L Nitrate - 1 mg/L will go and find the hydrometer now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted May 10, 2008 Report Share Posted May 10, 2008 everything seems to be in a good range did you test for nitrite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2008 hydrometer reads 1.024 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2008 did you test for nitrite nope should I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted May 10, 2008 Report Share Posted May 10, 2008 yea if you have the test there 1.025 is the best but 1.024 wont hurt anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 well here are some pics of fish and corals IS THIS A STARFISH??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tHEcONCH Posted May 12, 2008 Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 OK - some good coraline algae (the purple stuff), but also a few pests to get rid of before you go much further. In the first picture you can see some bottle green spheres - these are Valonia - a form of green algae that can become a real problem (although they are interesting in that they are the largest single celled organism (I think)). Turn you pumps off and pluck them off like grapes - don't squeeze them too hard or they will pop and release spores. Use tweezers gently on the little ones. The fourth picture showns aptasia - those little brown anemones. They are a real curse and will cause you no end of problems if you don't eradicate them. They sting other corals and grow at plague proportions. There are a million different cures, but basically you need to kill them in situ - if you cut them, squash them, etc. then new ones will grow from whatever tissue remains. The cheapest option is to squirt them with boiling water (cook them), but that causes quite a bit of collateral damage (it will kill the good coraline algae). The best but most expensive option is 'Joe's Juice', which you feed them as per the instructions. I have a 100% kill rate using that (on all of the three aiptasia I've ever had :lol: ) Deal with these now and then you can get on with developing your tank - if you ignore them they will become a constant hassle Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cichlid7 Posted May 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 i will try and get rid of the green things now how much is the Joes Juice ive never seen it before is it at most LFS also how much light should i have each day?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tHEcONCH Posted May 12, 2008 Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 John will have it, but its $25-$30 for a little bottle - then again you don't need much. There are some home recipes for it, but buying it premixed saves a lot of hassle and will work. I light my tanks for 13 hours a day, although the recommendation is usually 12 hours (being an Equatorial biotype 'n all). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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