help with tank layout

[Oliver]

please cheack this out and tell me your opinions on whether this is a good idea for my new aquirium

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q276/gudluckinlum/Tanksystemlayout-1.jpg

These are the things the layout needs to be good for:

I want to start with fish only in a tank with live coral rock on a coral sand bed. The coral sand we have is a coarse mix of shell and coral.

I want to start with a system we can upgrade to corals when Dad and I are happy we can keep a stable tank running.

Dad and I can build this set up but we dont know what we are doing. We have read lots of books.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of a reverse flow gravel bed?

What are the advantages and disadvantages of an area of stagnent sand for anerobic bacteria growth?

should we grow algae in the sump with the deep sand bed? Do we need lights for this?

Is hydrogen sulfide build up a risk in this situation?

any other ideas?

Thanks Oliver

[cookie extreme]

hi

lots of questions.

1. your tank is very high and not very wide. which makes it hard for light to reach to the bottom with only 150 watt M/H, also 300mm wide will look very narrow once saltwater is in it ( saltwater makes the back look closer, most salties would not run a tank this size, or you will upgrade / change in the near future (something salties do all the time ))

2. skip the canister filter as it is not needed, ok some use them but with no real benefits to the system.

3. do not use sand / shells / oyster shells you find on the beach. if you want to use sand (i would advise against it until you get more knowledge on how to keep it clean - and dirty it gets very fast)

4. reverse gravel beds belong into the fresh water section, all what would happen is your sandbed cloggs up and your nitrates and phospates explode.

5. i would not aim for any stagnent water anywhere in the system as it will / could lead to problems.

6. growing algae in a sump / fuge sounds easier then it actually is. yes it would need light and then best for 24 hours a day so your algae doesn't crash during reproduction. again i would leave it until a later date if ever.

7. don't make your system to complicated!!!!!

i would recommend for a newbee to start of with a tank (bigger is more stable) which is not to high (600mm max) but at least 500mm wide, a good skimmer (not air stone driven), good water flow thru out the tank, live rock in the main tank, no sand at least in the beginning (yes i do have sand and would not go bare bottom but it is a lot easier to look after for someone new to the hobby).

[Zev]

You will find it hard to aquascape a tank this narrow, mine is 650 x 350 x 450mm deep, and I find it difficult to get some arrangement with the rock that I am happy with, especially with a Bubble Tip Anemone that seems determined to take over half of the tank for itself!

And I hope you have long arms, because your tank is awfully deep.

[Feelers]

From the sounds of it you may have one of the older books on reef keeping? I have a book that was published around 1995 and it talks as if gravel filtration is the standard(it was at the time). Since then onwards there has been a major shift in reef keeping and people have become much more successful - primarily due to the berlin method and the technological increase in skimmer performace.

My suggestion is -

No sand, (called bare bottom) - way easier to clean and you'll see deep sand beds cause a lot of discussion here but I still dont think someone starting out should use them.

No cannister filter (unless you only run phosphate removing resin and activated carbon in it, which will help with algae etc)

Get a descent skimmer - the air lift ones arent that great, they are good if you use a cork diffuser but noone really uses these any more. A good skimmer might be around $500+, but they hold their value well and are very important IMO. If you are going to have a reef tank and you want success this is the part I dont think you can skimp on. If you do decide to diy, I would suggest importing a good needle wheel pump, here's a skimmer TM made which is sweeet!

http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/diy-sk ... 11994.html

If your tank has optimum water conditions algae wont be able to grow, but this wont happen until the tank has matured - 6 months plus.

[suphew]

If you do decide to use a cannister filter (with carbon/resin) don't what ever you do plumb it in as you have drawn. The first problem you will have is that they are built to work like a closed loop, i.e. the intake and output at the same water level. your design has added a large amount of head to the pump so it more than likely wont work, second problem is that if you do manage to get it to pump, when the power cuts out it will syphon all the water out of your tank

[wasp]

Some very good advice given above.

Do you already have this tank? If not, do consider getting a different one wider than 300. You will majorly regret such a narrow tank once you get into corals, it will be difficult.

Feelers is likely correct you may be using a fairly old book. Undergravel filters were popular years ago but now are not used in marine, which is why we have better water quality now and even beginners can keep what used to be regarded as difficult corals. Best plan skip the undergravel filter, plus don't use a cannister for biological filtration. Just let the liverock do all the filtration. This will make better water quality plus save you money, which you will need to buy the absolute best skimmer you can!

[Zev]

Some interesting info here:

http://www.melevsreef.com/tanks.html

[cracker]

Couldnt have said it better myself cookie!