Tom Gunner

I've run into major problems with the lights randomly cutting out, and then restarting a half hour later. After checking all my wiring I've narrowed it down to the stepdown AC 220V to 110V transformer - which has been getting mad hot. I rigged up another CPU fan and raised the transformer from the table with blu-tak to get the circulation going around it - I'm hoping this will keep it cool enough. Kermit - Is this a common problem with these transformers? I wouldn't have thought that an 18watt lighting unit would stress it that much.

A peristaltic pump would be perfect - but I need a cheap one (under $100). I've been flying comfortably under the wife's budget radar - but a large chunk of change spent on a pump could leave me high and dry on the excuses front.

Robert - Thanks for the info on the float switch. I think I'll leave it for the time being - after examaning the back of the hood last night - I don't think I'll have room to fit one. livebearer_breeder I've seen a few people on RC use this plan with success. I think the trick is finding a good container that will take the pressure.

Sweet - I'll give a shout out if I end up going for a float switch - maybe get a group purchase going.

unfortunately they won't ship to NZ for small orders.

misnoma - The DIY is one option for a switch - I just don't have a big margin for DIY error. I was thinking of ordering one of these: http://www.floatswitches.net/ They're the smallest I could find.

jetskisteve - The T fitting is a great idea. I'm thinkning I could possibly get away from a mini powerhead with thin tubing through a T fitting on a timer. I might rig a prototype up. Brianemone - I was just checking out his thread - he has an indusrial pump hooked up to a timer. A very nice setup.

The aquamedic sp3000 on a timer could work. As long as I experiment in incriments of a minute, and monitor the evap rate over a matter of weeks - I think it might be ok.

Great idea - a dosing pump would be perfect. Where can I buy one from - LFS?

Thanks very much for the compliments on the tank guys. I think it'll be interesting to see how this tank matures, having never tackled anything near this small. More pics are coming soon. The next step for this tank is to get the topoff's automated. I don't think I have enough room in there to fit a float switch - so I was thinking of having a small powerhead (or another slow pump?) with some tubing on a timer - does anybody else topup using this method? Any suggestions are more than welcome.

I mini goby would be sweet. I was thinking of getting one of these: http://www.lostmymarblz.com/7gal-clowngoby1.jpg but I'll probably keep it 'fish free' due to the size. Are they easy to get hold of over here?

Pies - That would be awesome. Thanks man.

Pies - Cheers mate, I really apprieciate the offer. I'll give you a shout in a few weeks time when the stocking starts. Brianemone - My plans are pretty flexible at the moment. I think I'd like a shrimp of some description with a couple of hermits and snails. Coral wise I'd like the centre piece to be a torch coral, and then probably a collection of Mushroons, Rics, pulsing Xenia and Zoos surrounding. The glass cover I have is a little short due to the HOB - I'll probably mod this so it's cut around and offers a tight fit. chimera - A sump and a skimmer would be nice - I might however see if I could make a DIY micro HOB skimmer for the HOB filter! Anybody have any plans?

Brianemone - The light's hooked up with a transformer - not ideal, but should be ok. I'm glad you liked the cabinet - I've been checking your office tank out. That would look awesome with a custom stand and hood. jetskisteve - Yeah, it's pretty small - but ironically, probably still quite high maintenance - I know the evap rate is going to be an issue.

The first full tank shot. I managed to get some really nice LR pieces at The Pet House, and I'm quite happy how the aqua-scaping. The lights look great and give me around 9WPG as a rough guide of illumination. I'm still experimenting with the fan speed to keep the lights on and off temps pretty stable. I added three blue LED's for the moon lights - I'm pleased with the effect.

The inside of the hood. It was quite tricky to fit all of this in and still have room for the HOB filter. I kept the ballests at the back, and connected the fan to a variable power AC adaptor so I can play around with the fan speed. There should be enough space to keep the high temps in check - these small lights are notorious for kicking out a lot of heat.

The finished woodwork. I stained the wood with a dark wood oil-based stain, and then oiled it with 4 layers of Danish oil. The Danish oil has a great satin finish, especially when wire-wooled in-between coats - it's also quite a resilient finish that should stand up to the occasional soaking of saltwater.

These are the freshly sanded base and lid - ready for staining and oiling.

Here's the light that I pulled apart, reassembled, and tidied up the wiring.

Due to the fact that it might be a while until I buy a house and setup a new large tank, I decided to experiment on the other end of the scale and built a 2 gallon pico reef. I've done quite a lot of research online, and there's some quite impressive tanks out there in the 2 gallon range - some of which are quite established. Here's what I started with: The light I ordered from Canada. It's a Coralife 2 X 9 watt Actinic / 10,000k. This is going to be coupled with the Aquaclear mini HOB which will run Chem Zorb when needed, and will hopefully provide enough circulation for such a small tank.

Hi Pies - Which beach do collect your water from?

What's the site address?

The main reason for me wanting to use NSW is due to the fact that I can't locate a good source of RO/DI water to mix ASW with. I agree that using NSW on such a small tank is much riskier than using it in a large setup.

I'd be interested in finding out exactly what kind of spike there would be from the die-off.

I've never used NSW, but I'm very interested in starting with my new 6 gallon. I was thinking about setting up a smaller version of Control's storage system - a 75 litre container kept in the dark, Powerhead onto a piece of LR (with possibly some LS?). I would fill the container and then leave it for 4 weeks, and then using the water. Topping the container up every three weeks or so with new NSW. Surely this would allow the water to cycle, and keep an equilibrium by the mix of new water?