chimera

looking great! i see the (other) advantage of having the rev's mounted right at the rear is that as they turn, at least one of the outlets will blow water down the back of the tank, pushing any crud to the front. not sure on how you're doing your aquascaping but id recommend you leave about a 1" gap all the way along the back to allow the rev's to push water behind the rockwork. more pics!!!

beat me to it fay, cheers!

inverts are very susceptible (more so than fish) to changes, especially temperature changes (but also salinity) NEVER expost them to the air, always ensure they're submerged in the water. next time, float the bag for 10-15 minutes then add about 1/4 of the volume of the water in the bag with water from your tank. repeat the same amount about 10 minutes later then again in another 10. then, open the bag under the water (try not to let any of that water into your tank) and let him out (again, without exposing them to the air!!!)

he emailed me some photo's, looks stunning as usual. will upload one or two of them and post on his behalf at some stage

that could be a problem tankgirls trademe account has been disabled

happy bday mate, amazing how young you look for a 76 year old free birthday frags for all! yeah i know, not after that comment

iwaki are quiet for a grunty external pump, but from your sump that is inside i'd recommend an eheim, say a 1262. quieter coz its under water too since my sump room is a floor down, i dont hear it. iwaki are awesome pumps, but in your case i would seriously consider a grunty eheim

i gotta work this weekend, damn it high tide at 12pm on saturday. would have been tempted to take and fill up the 1,000 litre tank i got if i wasnt

another suggestion, silicon in two horizontal glass or perspex 'mounts' half way down where the egg crate is going so it has something to sit on.

who made the sump? you? looks very professional! i see you mentioned the word 'plumbing' - hope you gotta BIG student loan i wouldnt feed the skimmer with a 1250, have your overflow feed go straight into the skimmer. the outlet from the skimmer is ok though although i'd have it go back to where the eheim 1250 is sitting in your picture. you will always find some other filtration device (cannister for carbon for example) to sit in the first section.

im confused, your comments dont make sense?! gravity feed both. give the skimmer one separate T'd off feed and the chiller the other T'd off feed. IMO the best way (and this is not how i did it, but this would have been better in hindsight) would be to T off the downpipe and feed the chiller first (reduce the T down to the same size as the chiller inlet) immediately after the chiller T, add a skimmer T (again, reduce the T down to the same size as the skimmer inlet) put the outlet of the skimmer back into the sump. with the chiller outlet, either dump it straight into the sump next to the skimmers outlet or perhaps a better solution, loop the outlet of the chiller back around and feed it back into the inlet of the skimmer. that way all water goes through the skimmer - even 'cooled' water coming out the chiller. the choice you make should depend on flow rates - work out what each needs first and give them that much or more, prioritising the skimmer first as it has a larger inlet.

902?

how much warren? new or 2nd hand?

im sure cracker still has some of the large sheet that i loaned (loaned? gave) him in the back of his garage! if so, you can have whatever is left

:lol: you wouldnt be the only one!!!

gravity feed the chiller too!

plenty of clowns on this web site, not sure if they'd be happy you offering money for them

id imagine what the hobby takes would be negligible compared to the effects of global warming. very sad, even more sad that my kids kids will probably never see a natural coral reef if we go on the way we are

:lol: 1000W thats sure some intense light, but seems a waste having them so high? gotta pic of ya tank?

Based on your previous posts, you seem quite intent on keeping soft corals like mushrooms, leathers, button polyps etc. A 150W halide can be very directional in that light is concentrated directly down over the tank. T5's give a nice spread of light that would cover the entire tank alot better than a single 150W halide would. Having 3 x T5's (at 54W each) is about the same wattage as the single halide. While the lux might not be as high, it may be more aesthetically pleasing as well as sufficient for soft corals. It depends what look you're after vs how much you want to pay. If price is a factor, then the problem with getting 3 x T5's is the electronic ballasts can only run 2 x T5's per ballast (well, the only ones I've seen) Also, you HAVE to run two T5's off that ballast, you can't just run one it wont work. This would mean you either go 2 x T5's or 4 x T5's (i just thought about this after my previous post!) If 4, then the price obviously increases. You can pickup single 150W halides for around $80 - $100. Four T5's would be more than double this.

2 ft would be sufficient for a 2.5ft tank. i have 4ft'ers on my 5ft tank - a bit shaded near the edges but just form your rock work towards the centre more. i would go 3 x T5's, never can have enough light. PM jetskisteve for a good price on T5 gear.

oh so thats what that stuff is

welcome! bizzare??? does it move? corals send out sweeper tentacles but that looks mighty long for something that doesnt look like a coral!

thanks, see the "saltwater members tanks" for my tank and others even nicer http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/saltwater-members-tanks-vf30.html

:lol: