[apple snails eat plants or algae only and black algae stuff?]

According to 'the fertilator' (a fert caluclator) from Aquatic Plant Central, the ideal amount of phospates is 0.5-2.0 PPM, and nitrates is 10-20 PPM

[Community Tank ideas.....]

If you're going planted try to get one that isn't too high. Longer is better than higher - because that way light can reach the bottom for substrate plants.

[apple snails eat plants or algae only and black algae stuff?]

Phospate removing media, not overfeeding.

But plants need phospates to grow. I'm pretty sure removal of phospates will have other effects - more exprienced amongst us feel free to correct these statement(s).

[Auckland uni students....]

I think you misunderstand. 3 Exams per day for people who supervise / run the examination sessions. Not 3 exams per day for students...

Typical AU student

[2224 Eheim pro filter problem]

Also remember manufacturer flow rates are probably quoted with zero head and no media, or media baskets present.

[Thinking of brackish?]

There are some brackish puffers - commonly referred to as 'green spotted puffer' or 'figure 8 puffer'

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_spotted_puffer

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraodon_fluviatilis

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraodon_nigroviridis

Whichever one(s) you get, make sure you research them well so you can provide the best possible care for them.

[Where do you get dry ferts in NZ (Auckland), and which ones?]

How come the PMDD advertised on trademe only contains the follwoing:

Magnesium Sulfate

Potassium Sulfate

Trace element mix

Potassium nitrate

I thought trace elements is what people refereed to as "micro" and NPK (Nitrogen, Potassium, Phospates) is what is referred to as "macro" ferts.

So where's the phospates in the above mix? And, what exactly is "trace elements" comprised of? Is it a set of chemical compounds mixed together, or is it something you buy from a gardening shop?

Not knocking Hans here, I'm just trying to figure out whats' what.

[Where do you get dry ferts in NZ (Auckland), and which ones?]

That's why I'm trying to find out where I can buy these chemicals from direct, so I can mix myself.

[Where do you get dry ferts in NZ (Auckland), and which ones?]

By "dry", do you mean some sort of powder that you put in the tank (like some types of ADA ferts) or nutritious substrate?

I mean the powder stuff. This stuff http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living/Pe ... 891012.htm

These guys have obviously obtained and mixed the chemicals, where do they get them from is what I'm asking.

I'm also asking which specific dry ferts are needed (as in, names of chemical compounds)

KNO3 is pottasium nitrate

KH2PO3 is Monopotasium phosphate

Do plants use FeII or FeIII? P44 we need your help

Interesting. So according to the chart I found on the planted tank forum:

40~60gal

50% H20 change-weekly

1/2 Tsp-KN03 3x a week

1/8 Tsp-KH2P04 3x a week

3/4 Tsp-GH booster once a week

10ml or 1/8Tsp-Trace 3x a week

Optional

2-4ml-Fe/Iron 3x a week

they only reckon you should dose nitrates and phospates? No potassium? Now I am _Thoroughly_ confused. What is "Trace" comprised of?

[Where do you get dry ferts in NZ (Auckland), and which ones?]

As in title.

I've been using Seachem Flourish line of products, but have no desire to drop upwards of $75 on a set of N,P,K, bottles that only last a few months. I always took this approach because frankly, dosing bare chemicals scares me a little, and I don't understand half the chemical names. It's very confusing when you ask "What ferts should I use" and get told 3/4 tsp of KN2S04901X3, 5/7 tsp of KN4OX, and so on (you get the idea ) But it's time to further my knowledge.

My understanding of planted tanks are pretty basic. I understand that Macro and Micro nutrients are needed for a thriving system, along with CO2 enriched water and high light. I have high light (2x39w, and another 2x39w sitting unused that I can use anytime) and pressurised CO2. Currently just dosing Flourish Comprehensive / NPK as per bottle instructions. I understand this is not ideal.

I want to try E.I. dosing with High CO2 and High Light.

I got this from the planted tank forum, it's a recommended dosing regime for 40-60 Gal (~200L) tanks, which is my tank size. Unfortunately, most of it is gibberish to me:

40~60gal

50% H20 change-weekly

1/2 Tsp-KN03 3x a week

1/8 Tsp-KH2P04 3x a week

3/4 Tsp-GH booster once a week

10ml or 1/8Tsp-Trace 3x a week

Optional

2-4ml-Fe/Iron 3x a week

I'm guessing KN03, KH2P04 are chemicals? Wher do I get these? Also, what is "GH booster", and is it absolutely necessary? I've never come across this before. Also, it says "2-4ml Fe/Iron 3 x a week". What does that mean? Iron in what concentration? Surely they don't mean pour melted iron in the tank

Any help appreciated.

[A couple of pics]

What ferts are you using, and what is your dosage regime?

[A couple of pics]

Any update on the hair algae situation? I tried everything to get rid of mine - increasing CO², E.I. dosing Macro + Micro nutrients almost every day of the week with 50% weekly water changes, additional power heads, less light. Eventually gave up and tore it down, just put it back up and it's doing much better. Now I'm afraid to dose ferts :-?

[Dwarf f/w puffer keepers (Carinotetraodon travancoricus)]

Puffers do have their own personality, I'd try getting both to co-exist. I released a tiny guppy fry into my puffer tank thinking it'd be a quick meal for them, but they weren't even interested in it. It grew to a huge size before I removed it from the tank. They didn't seem bothered by it at.

Definitely worth setting up a species tank for them, they're such great fish to watch (especially when they pick their sleeping spot at night!)

[Dwarf f/w puffer keepers (Carinotetraodon travancoricus)]

Yeah ok gatito, will take em if you need to find them a new home.

[Dwarf f/w puffer keepers (Carinotetraodon travancoricus)]

Alright have just had these fish breed again. Did a water change (I have 3 males, 3 females in my 200L heavily planted CO2 rich tank) and 4 of them paired up and started breeding. Syphoned out 3 eggs.

Also have 1 fry that is 2 months old, and doing well.

Has anyone else had any luck at breeding these fish?

[Fin Rot on Dwarf Puffer]

Update: After medicating with PimaFix for 1 week exactly and then doing a big water change, he looks great. Have since moved him into my 40L heavily planted CO² enriched tank.

[Found a 1400L tank today!]

Looks a lot like the hollywood fish farm mt roskill tank Could be mistaken though.

[one of the dangers of working at a pet store, the pets]

I am also *very* cross that this perpetuates the myth that rotweilers are aggressive by nature and will attack anything anytime. The general public already has this idea in their head I bet.

Also, I love the photo of the vicious looking rottwiler on the nz harold's article. It's no longer about journalism. It's all about getting hits and ad revenue.

http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/artic ... sholefever

[one of the dangers of working at a pet store, the pets]

Prolly didn't help that most animates staff (IME) have been people who simply don't know anything about animals.

Edit: Read article, looks like I was right.

"The owner didn't do anything wrong. He had the dog properly contained on a lead and the staff member put herself into the territory of the dog," Mr Wells said.

[Heater or Thermometer?]

How big is the tank, how many watts is your heater, and how cold is your house?

[I am SOO over canister Filters!!!! >_<]

Fair enough, but setting up a sump is a million times more work than using a cannister.

To set up a sump you have to sort out overflow systems. The most simple one is to drill a hole in the tank high up for an overflow. This isn't really recommended on tanks that have already been built as it can apparently weaken the glass and cause the whole thing to crack. Then you have to worry about overflows blocking, return pumps, etc. Then there's the whole issue of making it quiet (if needed).

You say you have to take the tubes out of the tank every time you clean it? That isn't right. Don't you have a valve near where thet tubes go into the canister? I know almost all the cannisters do, including the cheap ones. All you have to do is close this valve, then un-hook the pipes. Once you are done cleaning, you hook all the pipes back up, open the valves so the water drains into the cannister from your tank (the syphon is maintained as the intake hose is never taken out of the water). Then plug it in, and you're away - the filter will just start running. No need to shag about with priming it etc.

[CO2 bottle system]

Same, I paid $200 for my 3.5 bottle from a commerical filling place that mainly serves corporates.

[I am SOO over canister Filters!!!! >_<]

What's so bad about cannister filters? If you set them up properly, they are quiet, provide great water quality, require hardly any maintenance, and for many years without incident.

The maintenance is important though. Got to check things like o-rings and stuff otherwise you'll come home to a tank drained onto the carpet and your fish swimming around in 2" of water.

[Under water world]

That looks great!

[is a 55W heater enough for a 70L tank?]

100w at least. Better safe than sorry.