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new tank holes


chimera

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That pic is a nightmare. To say that its excessive is an understatement.

So whats your question? It doesn't matter where you put the holes. No place is going to be any better than another, just depends on what you are trying to do. I would think the only important point is that you can't see them (hence the reason not to put them at the top of the tank).

I think there is a safty issue with plumbing in through the side, with pressure pipe too. I would be worried that if you lent on the pipe, it could put extra pressure on the hole and cause the hole to crack or break its seal. Proably wouldn't happen but I want to have my plumbing away from anywhere I could lean on it and cause me some problems.

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i agree re: that pic, way too excessive. my point was that is how i want to plumb it, but a much much simpler version of that.

good point re: accidentally leaning on piping - and it will be around the back. i will just have to be extra careful. the pipe work will be seen going into the tank a little bit, i will stealth it by having it black.

i know how i want the rock formation laid out hence why the 3 holes in the bottom are spaced at 300mm, 600mm then 1100mm apart. my reason for moving pipe work to bottom of tank was to reduce the amount of plumbing sticking out the back as i wanted easy access. there is only 2 holes on the back/top and 1 side/top so access to the tank shouldnt be too bad.

there will always be design faults with something like this, something that i wish i changed but didnt realise until its in and running. its murphys law that this will happen. however, i want to minimise any potential hassles by posting questions about it and getting everyone's feedback.

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And thats why I am trying to help :) Good planing is what its all about.

I would seriously have a think as to why you would want the holes through the back pain as oposed to having them through the bottom. the bottom is the safest and most forgiving place aestheticlly speaking.

On a related topic, just got the call from Mico Plumbing, my plumbing has arrived. I hope my tank begins assembly next week and my floors are sorted in the next few weeks.

Its all happening. Next challenge, lighting... Alois called me, 400watt

DE are available... arghhhhhh what to do?

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And I appreciate the help :) So you mean best to have extra holes through the bottom with piping going up into the tank to get water movement at a various heights. Does make sense aesthetically hiding them under rocks but i think i will leave as it is because i can direct water flow downwards by having holes nearer the top. I dont mind too much seeing the pipes, they wont be that visisble anyhow and there's only a few of them.

Pity you dont have Chesters Plumbing in Wellies, they are really good. Those valves/taps were only $19 each for 32mm ones and their service (well, the service i got from them) was very good. Hundred times better service than any time I've ever visited the #!@#$% at Mico.

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Well, after some lengthy discussion with Pies, Jetskisteve and my physics-guru mate + using some reefcentral calculators, I have increased the size of the hole for overflow from 35 to 45mm to allow for 32mm piping (the hole needs to be about 45mm so it can handle a 32mm pipe - basically need 10mm or so larger hole to allow for the pipe thickness/thread)

My friend worked out that a 25mm hole with water-level height in the overflow of 450mm gives 5,200l/hr and a 32mm hole with overflow water level at the same height will give 8,500l/hr (this doesnt take into account elbows and friction in the pipe but this is really quite negligible to the overall figure) Using Reef Central calculators, to pump 5,200l/hr (1370 gallons/hr) requires a 38mm overflow hole with a linear overflow water level height of 560mm. I will be using an Iwaki rated at 5,500l/hr but guesstimate I will lose flow rate because of a 3 metre head height. I could get a maximum 3,500 litres (900 gallons) per hour (according to Reef Central calculators) with a 32mm (1 1/4") hole. While this is still less than the rated maximum for the Iwaki, the loss in flow rate because it has to pump 3 metres straight up should cover it.

The other holes (for closed loops) will remain 35mm (to allow for 25mm piping) All bottom outlets will be hooked up with compact ball valves (taps) as follows (the white line shows the approximate position of the bottom of the tank)

bottomplumbing.jpg

Pressure piping will be glued into the bottom piece (a pressure fitting) and runs down to an Eheim pump. There will be 2 of these made up. Each Eheim pumps output will be plugged into a SCWD, and each SCWD will direct water flow back into 2 "inlet holes" each (or 4 total) One on the bottom for circulation under the reef rack, one on the opposite side from the overflow and two on the top/back.

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James - That tap is the WRONG tap. This is what I was saying to you, use taps with a Union on both sides, those red handled ball valves are ok (sticky) but you can't disconnect the piping from either side.

If you want a pic, look at the pics I posted for my Frag Growout tank with the SCWD, these a true union taps and about 100x more usefull.

The red handled taps are going to be hopless for the closed loops (been there done that).

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I was looking at the hansen tank valve and thinking it was upside down as it makes more sense to have the fixed thread piece inside the tank as its one less piece to have a potential leak with on the outside. However, I was basing my decision on it being that way up from the current overflow valve in my 4 footer being up that way. The union taps are the ones with the self-turning thread separate to the main tap right? (ie: thread not fixed in the actual tap to allow easy removal) Thanks for the link and info Pies.

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Yes the taps allow for the plumbing to be disconnected (via a union fitting) on both sides of the tap. This is a must have.

The tank valve fitting is less likley to be able to leak of the thread is facing down (water can't get through the thread as there isn't one on the top). Trust me this is the right way arround :)

Also don't forgot what I said about the pipe adapter. You need to make the standpipe bigger (5-10mm) than the hole for it to work. so if you are using 35mm plumbing to the sump, the stand pipe should be made of 40mm+ pipe.

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