chimera Posted May 18, 2004 Report Share Posted May 18, 2004 I got hold of a 3 foot tank that I want to use as a refugium for my main tank. I want to add an overflow to it. When adding the piece of glass inside the tank to form the overflow - are there any implications with adding the glass on an angle? (the reason is because of existing supports at the bottom of the tank, see pic below) Also, what type of silicon do you use or can I use any type? Is there anything you need to watch out for? Here's a quick pic I drew up of what I want to achieve which maybe easier to explain it: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted May 18, 2004 Report Share Posted May 18, 2004 Chimera - I've set a few sumps up now and have some thoughts: I don't see any problem with the angle, but I think you may find it a bit awkward, why no glue the divider on top of the supports? Fill the hole in with silicone or another piece of glass. Because of the way that gravity works, bubbles and the likes, I would consider the use of a baffle. So you drop the water over say 2 or 3 dividers, less splash, and a great way to channel the water for things like carbon and phosphate resins. In the final compartment (above the hole going out) glue some supports to the side, and put some egg crate in. Then if you want to run filter wool (which I do for a few days a week) then you just drop it on. Easy access means it will be easy to remove it. You have a center brace, because the tank isn't going to be even close to full you could remove it. I still have a centre brace and its a REAL PAIN, knock it out. Lighting? I assume that you want to light the sump/refugium? Lighting is fine, but the problem with light is Algae. So paint the outside glass and use dark glass / plastic for dividers to contain the light. Otherwise its a real hastle. I am sure you understand what I mean. Good luck Pieman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted May 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2004 Cheers mate, and yes it does make sense. It will be a refugium with lighting - just a 900mm double fluoro. Painting the glass/using dark glass is a good concept too - will definately do that. Makes sense to put another piece of glass on the bottom then the multiple dividers straight up to allow for different media in each baffle. Anything that makes it easy and functional is great. Re: the middle support, I agree and was going to remove it anyway (I was also thinking about removing the end one where the over flow is!) Will do a design tonight and post... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted May 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2004 Ok, so how about this design then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted May 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2004 well after discussion in the chatroom, this is a dumb idea as the water flow over the first divider is not sufficient enough for the media to do its job. Sitting the media below the water surface in the first baffle and adding a 3rd divider now with water flow under the middle one. Sick of doing 3d pic's... Comments, suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted May 20, 2004 Report Share Posted May 20, 2004 Chimera - Thats pretty much 'stock standard' sump design! It will work fine. Comments: The space between the dividers is important. The closer they are together, the faster the water flows through it. If the flow is to fast, air bubbles don't get a chance to rise as they get sucked through the fast water flow, if you know what I mean? Lighting - I know I have mentioned this, but to remake a point. If you are using a 3ft tank, and are using a 3ft light, then you will have light in you baffles, which means algae and feather dusters etc. I would rethink you sump. Here is what I suggest: You can use 2ft lights over the refugium section. But I suspect you have the 3ft lights? So... Try this: This is the sump design I am currently using, and it works perfectly. 2 mistakes made. The center divider should have run right to the top of the tank (or higher) and been made of something to not let light through. My baffles should have been lower as I would have liked to run less water actually in the sump (reverse syphon protection). I have egg crate over the 'inputs' to place filter wool when needed. I put carbon etc pegged to these baffles. This is also where I have my heaters and my probes. No light in here helps keep things clean. Looking good. Pies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted May 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2004 problem is i dont have the width on the 2nd tank i scored (for free) i could do a long channeled baffle with sections as you have done, just not sure i will have the room. a long channel like this will also provide enough "room" to provider longer spaced baffles - so allowing better control of water flow. in regards to lighting, yes, already have a 900mm light hence the reason im using it (it'll become spare once the hallides go in) i can always place a piece of tinted glass over the end where the baffles are to minimise algae. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pies Posted May 21, 2004 Report Share Posted May 21, 2004 My tank is a standard 3ft tank too. Its not very wide, doesn't need to be. Just make the front (refugium) about 60% of the tank, and the baffles at the back. Longer spacing of the baffled. My back compartment is wide enough to place an ehiem 1262 in (infact I use 2 side by side). This was my soultion to make the most of my light, while using the tank I had. Has worked well for over 12 months, and will consider similar again. More advice? Where you feed the water in, don't do it through the top. Drill the side, and but in a bluckhead and an elbow facing down (near the end of the tank). This will reduce 'splash' which means salty nastyness everywhere. Even better would be to have the pipe in through the elbow nearing the bottom of the tank, spash can be a real pain, in both mess and in noise. Good luck, looks like your getting close. Ohh also, I just used persepcs for the dividers, not glass. Even though persepcs doesn't glue too well to glass, it glues just fine for baffles and dividers and a drill bit set for holes is about $7 from Mitre 10. Pie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetskisteve Posted May 21, 2004 Report Share Posted May 21, 2004 J modern plastics on wairau rd...perspex! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chimera Posted May 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2004 cool, i will make it up, take some photo's and post the results in due course!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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