How would I ...

[polgara]

Take a fish tank apart. I am doing this for two reasons. One I want to store it out the way till we move, and secondly it has a slow leak that I want to fix up. What is the best way to cut the silicon???

Thanks all :lol:

[polgara]

what type of silicon is best for tanks????

ekkkkkkk aren't I just full of questions..............sorry

Hey Hamilton people, I would love to see some of your tanks and fishies

[Rob]

I think most people use a razor blade (or similar) to cut the seams on the tank - usually cutting betweent the two pieces of glass - can be a bit tricky if the pieces of glass are touching (rather than having a layer of silicon between them).

As to which silicon to use I'm sure people will recommend different brands - but things to make sure of is that it is ACID cure, not neutral cure (acid cure smells like vinegar), also don't use silicons designed for use in bathrooms as they often have anti-mould chemicals in them. In the past I've used sellys window and glass with no problems (haven't used it for larger tanks though), can't remember what brand I've got at the moment (it's one that I got from a professional tank maker though).

As for Hamilton tanks to visit - PM or email me and we can organise a time to have a nosey at my tanks.

[Pegasus]

Hi Polgara,

Helluva job... not only to break down and strip, but to re-assemble.

Lot of opinions on cutting the seams, but I use a strong craft knife (not a cheap plastic one as it could shatter) and I dip it in cooking oil so that it doesn't stick once you start the cut.

If it's the six footer, it will need two of you most likely, as one will need to hold the sheets once they start to part.

Wear some good garden gloves to avoid cuts, and don't rush.. be careful.

First remove the top (Front to Back) braces completely, and break the "end" seals on the anti bow strengthening strips that run the full length of the tank across the top at the front and back.

Leave these intact along the length, for there is no need to remove them unless the silicone is damaged, but if need be... remove them later.

Now do each corner seperately.. and fold the sheets down as you free each one in turn.. so you'll need lottsa space... then do the base last.

Depending on the silicone thickness you may have to cut the seam at the base slightly before it will fold down, but any sounds of glass splintering.... (glass touching glass) then you will have to take great care and cut through most of the seam at the base before it will lay flat.

All the glass will have to be absolutely spotless, with no traces of old silicone before you consider re-assembly.

Store the glass with several sheets of paper between each piece.

I use Silaflex RTV.. For Glass and Ceramics.. Professional Range... Made by Fosroc, and is available through most hardware outlets.

You will most likely need two new cartrdges of silicone to complete the re-assembly. (Cost around $13.50 each)

Any probs... Email... always here

[Dark]

a tip that i can offer:

When cutting the silicon, try cutting as you would a thick piece of paper; making many shallow cuts instead of sticking the knife all the way through and pulling along. If you can do it this way without the knife getting stuck i would advise it as when you do put the knife all the way through to cut the remaining seal you have much less pressure to apply. Again, this depends on the amount of space between the pieces of glass - i used this technique mainly between the reinforcing around the base of the tank.

Also, if you can help it i would refrain from attempting to remove the reinforcing strips - being long and thin they do not take much lateral pressure to break.

Craft knife blades are great as they will break if too much pressure is applied in the wrong direction - better than than the glass.

When i dissassembled my 910L tank to turn it into my 600L tank (when the base glass split) i used a stanley knife to cut the silicon: the blade jammed when i was taking the back panel off the side panel and the front panel aquired a nice rounded curve across the center as the top fell off. This was purely because my remedy for a stuck blade was more pressure - even 10mm glass has its limits.

(Incidentally i think that Pies ended up with the old base from that tank as part of something... )

Number one rule: take it slow!

Oh, and wear safety goggles at all times, gloves, and a radiation suit if available (if nothing else it will confuse your neighbours). The next time i have to take a tank apart i'm going to get someone else to do it.

Cleaning the glass can be done effectively with acetone, 13 bucks a litre, and a few hospital towels, and one of those glass scrapers - the ones that take razor-type blades (as opposed to the ones that take stanley knife blades). Tip for the razors: don't use chipped ones (like the ones you'll use for cleaning the ends of the glass) on the sides of the glass cause they scratch, and don't use the side ones on the ends cause they'll get chipped and scratch the sides if you use them there again.

I'm rambling... must return to the depths of evil work thing that 'apparently' pays the bills...

good luck!

[Alan]

I use a blade from a "bic" disposable.

They are thinner than a craft blade, and less likely to get stuck.

I use a piece of wood to push it along, as being thin, even the blunt side can cut.

I also use a little leverage as soon as possible as the cut is made, this helps get the strain off the blade.

Remove the inside bead first, this will mean you have less glue holding the joints. Therefore less to cut.

You can use a piece of scrap glass for this, as well as cleaning up the flats on the sheets that have been removed.

The most vital part to clean is/are the edges that have had glue on them.

Go fo all of the above posts, there are good points in all of them.

Not sure about the anti-radiation suit tho.

Alan

[Dark]

anti-radiation suit? i ment...

overalls!

*looks around nervously*