gemelee
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Posts posted by gemelee
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Just tested again and got the same results 0.1 ammonia, 0 nitrate, 10 nitrates. I also tested the tap water again 0 nitrates. There is a noticeable difference between the tap water and tap water, with tap the test is yellow and tank it's orange.
I did use some bio balls from another tank but the goldfish didn't go in until about a week after so I guessed all the bacteria would have died off in that time and the cycle would be started from scratch.
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Its a 5 foot, 150L and I'm using a small goldfish.
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This is far from my first tank so I'm well aware of how the cycle process works but my tank I've just started cycling a few days ago is barely and I mean BARELY showing ammonia, about 0.1ppm. 0 nitrites but has 10ppm nitrates!? I made sure it was well shook (of that's a word :slfg: )
Can someone please explain how this is possible? Tap water is showing 0 nitrates
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Does anyone have an idea whether this Bolivian Ram is male or female? From what I've read online I'm leaning towards female but I could be completely wrong
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Got this little black and orange goldfish today, my son named him Owen
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This is high range pH. Is this about right for Malawi?
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Thanks for the advice bananalobster, :gpo2: but I've cycled a small 21L before using fishfood but found fish-in cycles to be a bit more reliable source of ammonia. I think I am going to put in the yellows first but only once it's completely cycled.
I was more checking that I'm not going to be hanged for doing a fish-in cycle, I understand some people are very against it. I also want to know how much longer it would take to cycle it coldwater?
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:slfg: Godly, yes I do but I was sneaky about it, I painted the edges of it black so it blends in with the stand, but it wasnt there in the first lot of pics, I didnt put it under until I put the background on.
And thanks for the stocking help smidey. Any idea what order I should put things in after the cycle is comple? Yellows first as dems are more agressive??
Now cycle question, whats everyones thoughts on cycling? Ive only ever done fish in cycles using seeded media. And was considering maybe a goldfish but heard cold water takes longer to cycle?
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I might just stick with the dems and yellows then, unless there is something else I can have just a single fish along with dems and yellows, if not that's fine I want to make sure my fish will be happy and healthy.
I think it works out to be about 148L.
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Tank being filled
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If I ditch the red tops, what is there available at a more suitable size?
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So after asking lots of questions, I've finally gotten around to getting the tank set up, it's 154 x 32(h) x 30(w), a bit smaller than what's usually used for Africans but I think because of the length I should get away with it.
I currently have an aquis cf1200 but am thinking about adding another smaller canister filter maybe 700lph
As far as stocking goes I'm still not 100% sure and would love some suggestions.
I'm thinking (if possible) demasoni, electric yellows and red top trewavasae. I know the dems need to be at least 12 but I'm not sure how many of the others I want.
My partner built the steel stand for me and cut out a fish in the front.
Unpainted
Tank and stand in place
The tank was braceless, so I added some just for peace of mind more than anything
I have also added black material for a background.
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The solid plastic ones that come in like packs of 4 or 5, i think they are only 2 or 3mm but I will have to check the thickness
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Would some thin food-safe chopping boards work?
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I want to do Africans and was planning on dems and electric yellows but was just curious what everyone would stock this long shaped tank with? 154x30x30cm
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Where did you get yours I asked at bunnings and said light defuser and they had no clue
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I am wondering what everyone uses offset the pressure points caused by a large stack of rocks in their tank? I have everything ready and waiting to be set up and really want to get my cycle started but I'm nervous about putting in a lot of heavy rocks. I see eggcrate is popular in the US but not common here?
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At least I'm not the only one suffering mts :nilly:
His thing is we have no more room for any more tanks but I'm sure we can fit another 2 in the lounge, 2 more in our room and another one in my daughters room.... No way does 6 satisfy my fishy needs.
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I currently have 6 tanks (5 set up, 1 getting finished this week if hubby hurries up and paints my stand) and Im also planning on building my own 4 bay Betta barracks sometime over summer. So it was my birthday the other day and I've saved some money and want to get another large tank for an Oscar.
But my partner was like "NO! You have a problem"
How many tanks does your spouse put up with?
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How many would I be looking? Would 8 of each be too much?
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Is there anything else I can have with them in this tank size like dems? How many of each?
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Thanks for the help everyone :gopo:
I plan using crushed/small pieces of coral in the as a layer in the filter but am having some trouble finding any (unless someone has some to spare :thup:) also I may use some limestone in the tank itself but not sure yet. Like nudge said I've heard before that using coral etc may not get the pH to the desired level which is why I thought about using a buffer. I haven't had the chance to test the GH and KH of the tap water yet. The pH of the tap water is higher but my planted tanks usually have a pH of around 6.5 using just tap for water changes.
As for powerheads, the aquaone 1200l/hr is rated for up to 300L so I figured 2 x 700l/hr = 1400l/hr as well as a 1200l/hr canister filter would be sufficient. I've never really thought of using a wavermaker instead, how do they work? In a similar way to powerhead? Sorry about all the questions this is my first cichlid tank, i usually have planted tanks.
Oh and is my bristlenose ok going in there or will the yellows harrass him?
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Also I have an adult bristlenose, he should be ok in there right?
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Hi
I'm setting up a 154 x 30 x 30cm tank for electric yellows and have a couple questions.
I'm looking at powerheads at the moment and have read a couple smaller ones is better than one large one but am not sure what to look for in terms of flow rate, would say 2 x 700L/hr be suitable or am I completely off track?
Also I heard about using a mix of baking soda and epsom salts as a buffer, does this work and if so what ratio? How long before water change does it need to be added to the new water, for example can it be dissolved in placed in right before water change or should it be left to sit for a few days? I prefer to not use store brought cichlid buffer and pH raising chemicals.
Gemelee's mbuna tank build
in Cichlids
Posted
So I just started seeing some Nitrites and then had a bit of a set back. The tank bowed and the middle brace broke off today. Any idea how to prevent this happening again?