FraserNZ
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Posts posted by FraserNZ
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they should be opaque bro
i managed to get mine to spawn real easy but the eggs would always go white. had 5 females 2 males. used to
put them in a place were the tank will get direct morning sun and id turn the heater off at night and tey would spawn the next morning
Might just be the female just dropping all of her eggs then
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and I have eggs... they look quite white, is that normal or does that mean they are unfertilized?
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Cool, are the eggs easy to see? Second day today and still no eggs
As far as conditioning goes, would it be best to keep the male and the females separate, feed them up then put them all together? Or, is it ok just to feed them in the breeding tank all together and wait?
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Do you guys think fly screen mesh will be wide enough for the eggs to drop through? I just have no idea because I've never seen them before? Are they smaller than Blue Ram eggs?
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Yeah I have a large tank next to it that I can put them in and out of.
Do Danios tend to partner up, or is it more of a case of just finding a male/female and letting them go to it?
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Ok cool, will give that a shot. Does my setup sound ok other than that?
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One of my good friends closed down his tank and in doing so I have inherited a few of Leopard Danios (2 female 1 male). So I’ve decided to give breeding them a go…
I’ve setup a 30L tank filled with water upto about halfway, halfway down from that I have added an aluminium fly net screen to stop them getting at the egg once they have dropped. The heater is set to 24c at the moment, running a sponge filter. I added both danios last night into the tank, hoping that in the morning I would find some eggs (haha wishful thinking)
Any advice would be great!
Cheers
F
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My neon tetra's started to die off when I turned the temp up to 28.5c so be careful
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Yeah looks good bro!
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wouldn't the pumice float?
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yeah but, I doubt they would stop say second hand heater coming into the country... thats like say you can't bring your shoes back into the country because you have been on holiday to thailand...
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That's guna over stock the tank :lol:
If you run a 300l sump or x 4 FX5's it should be ok as long as you do weekly 50% water changes :slfg:
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one tetra
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Just probably throwing more charges at him to see how much will stick... well if importing new equipment is an offense ummmm :mbh:
:nilly:
:-? &c:ry
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Most tap water in NZ is fine for them...
The trick is to keep the water chemistry stable, therefore it is probably advisable for beginners to keep to normal tap water as when you start using RO it adds way too many variables.
If you get baby discus you need to do 30-50% water changes each day and at least 1-2 water changes per week for adult discus. So the up keep for them is quite high.
I keep my discus at 29c which is quite a standard temp to keep them at. Just be mindful of the other fish in the tank as a lot of other fish cannot handle high temps.
Other than that, they are pretty easy fish to care for...
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That was really called for wasn't it.
This thought has actually crossed my mind as well, as they have some pretty nice looking plants on Ebay... But, yeah unfortunately it is a no go.
PS, nice Rota Housing Fish Tank
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Personally I wouldn't run a sump with a planted tank as if were wanting to run CO2 at any stage it would make it less effective.
I'm not familar with the Eheim 2229, so cannot comment on its heating ability. However, what I can tell you is from my experiance, external heaters (the ones you plug into the in/out pipes on canister filters are far more effective than just simply just having a heater in the tank as they heat the water as its being circulated around the tank.
Ive had my Hydor 300w external heater on a 500L tank running at 30c without any issues.
The heated canister filter therefore, might be worth a crack...
Your other options could be to get a normal canister, and buy a hydor heater, would most probably workout cheaper, and if one of the items failed you wouldn't have the issue of having the issue of tearing down the filter to get to the heater.
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Hi Guys,
I am finding a lot of varying reports on the average lifespan of Discus when looking around the internet. It appears that water quality has quite a bit to do with it. Anything from 3-15 years has been quoted on the sites that I have been looking at. Most of the information I have found come from people from contries with higher PH, which is less suited to Discus. I understand that New Zealand as whole generally has better water conditions for these fish also.
I would be interested to know what the average lifespan experienced by people here in NZ, and more relevantly, FNZAS forum Members who have more experience keeping these fish due to the demands of meeting the fishes high maintenance requirements, e.g regular water changes and quality foods.
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Some defusers are made for high pressure setups and will not work on DIY. If you can't get bubbles when you blow on it chances are you won't get enough pressure from a DIY setup
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I'm starting to wonder if I'm the only one doing this using buckets... :facepalm:
I'm also using buckets :facepalm: lol
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:nfs: But, won't the Black Ghost Knife smash all the other fish?
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If you can be bothered dividing all the bits of glosso up into indervidual plantlets it will heap it carpet a lot better. It will also stop bits from growing upwards so easily.
The Glosso will be a good test for the lighting on your tank anyway. If it grows upwards = not enough lighting, if it carpets across the substrate = your lights should be fine to grow most plants.
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Well do keep an eye on the PH of your tank if you do it that way.
As for Fertilizing, I use to use all seachems products until I read this...
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.ph ... -which-one
It's a little more technical, but the results speak for themselves, and works out a lot cheaper cheaper as well.
I'm pretty sure there are a few people on this site that would agree with me on this as well.
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Big night last night.
Installed a bubbler and set it up on a timer - (for dark hours). Set the lights on a timing sequence so they come on in stages and go off in stages.
Why would you want to do this? A tank with the surface area of your size won't need extra airation...
Is your tank going to be that heavily stocked with plants to begin with anyway? The additional CO2 that the plants will give off at night will be marginal.
As long as you have the CO2 system setup on a timer to switch off at night let the CO2 dissipate naturally, this will help avoid a sharp swing in PH as the CO2 exits the water.
I trust you have a CO2 Drop Checker?
What ferts are you planning to dose the plants with?
Building a 5 foot tank
in DIY Section
Posted
just out of interest, how much is it costing you?