b16a2
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Posts posted by b16a2
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Got a spare 60L tank that's not doing anything so pretty keen on setting it up and getting some lamprologus ocellatus. Planning on using coral sand as the substrate, coral rock to ad filtration and decoration (as well as using a hob filter) and some shells for the fish to hide etc. Just wanting some extra info on these guys and also to know if this is the best way to run the tank and how many can i have without it being over stocked and having issues to arise?
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I believe the rating of a filter is measured with the cannister filter at the same level as the tank. Efficiency drops when the cannister is below the tank due to the increased pressures on the impeller.
dont know about that one aye, for example pretty sure the eheim classic's for example need to be below the tank as there a gravity fed filter
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anyone have any photos of the tank? interested to see how bad it is lol
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bottom of 4th pic is that a flagtail prochilodus fin?
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hi thanks
yeah im in the slow process of cladding the outside with melamine
can make steel stands too :thup:
bro how much for a stand just like the one pictured? :thup:
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at fist u'll think im being an idiot but it honestly works a charm aye as im doing it on my four foot tank. just get one of those cheap blueplanet tankmaid internal filters, the largest one apparently flows 1000l/hr. i took all 3 compartments apart and broke off all the bottom grid bits making it one whole chamber/compartment and then just stuff it full of filter wool. only needs changing like every fortnight and its easy as to change the wool, there cheap to buy as well. i really noticed the difference aye, no more tiny little particles anywhere.
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had a 5 foot miami corn snake when i lived in england, was a cool pet specially seeing it make mince meat of a full size rat. currently have four alpacas in the paddocks, god knows why lol
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yeah mine was only fed bloodworms for a while, pretty much as said above i used bloodworms to lure him out and then keep trying raw prawn, he didnt eat it for a couple of weeks. sucks short term but long term worth doing, crazy to think how much bigger he'd be on a better diet from the word go considering bloodworms have practically no nutrition. maybe try some live bait like small earthworms? mine rages on them aye and at least lets him have something to work for
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This is a fish forum not a dating website. If you and Mr A.Law want a committed relationship please use the private messaging function. :thup:
hahaha dont try and act all sweet and innocent lol. hope you have better luck catching fish this weekend :facepalm:
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yeah ive just come back from cairns and port douglas, even port douglas as a holiday resort/destination wasn't that expensive for what it was.I honestly believe if you exclude the exchange rate (as you'll be living there) things are pretty similar in price except the wages are a fair bit higher, cost of living in some areas but the wage increase will more than cover it. Every time i go to aus regardless of where, i'm more and more inclined to move over as well aye
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over 18 i belive :digH: :slfg:
think you'll find its 16 :lol:
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clown loaches love lots of current as long as they have somwhere to rest-hide
clown loaches in a 70L tank? :facepalm:
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cycle contains food for the bacteria to live on, so by adding it to your tank it can actually cause a rise in ammonia levels. but assuming your tank is already cycled then you shouldnt need it, could always use stability as the bacteria becomes live once its in contact with the water.
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You shouldnt need ph up, ph down, ammo lock or even stress coat/stress zyme. All my tanks including breeding tanks get water changes straight from the hose, the trouble with the shops is it's their job to sell you things whether you need them or not. The water changes ( i'd be doing 15 ltrs twice weekly until sorted/cycled) will take care of ammonia, nitrite & nitrate levels without any help from chemicals, remember when the fish are in the wild there are no extra chemicals and they will survive and breed readily without them. I would also loose the carbon in the filter as that can also cause problems. Ive got an internal eheim filter here you can have if you like, i can set it up in one of my tanks to get some bacteria going in the sponge to help with the bio filtration in your tank. Do you have any bottom feeders to help keep the substrate clean? I'd have a spare GBA that would help with that if you'd like. Let me know about the filter/GBA if you want them.
not sure if id completely agree with that, ph up/down is a complete waste of money as every water change will affect the ph as the chemical used, far better off using peat driftwood oyster shell etc, but water conditioner is useful if your not letting the water sit before adding to the tank so it removes the chlorine and you also dont know exactly what metals are in the tap water and for the sake of a cheapy bottle of stresscoat could be worth it
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Nah I did the water change and since then ALL the white stuff has come off. It looked like skin peeling off. I think it must be the slime coat. Not sure why it's come off... maybe because of the Wunder Tonic or the fact that my PH is only 6.0. But the goldfish still has blood streaked fins and it's tail seems to be rotting away and it has blood coloring by its mouth and on it's body in a few places..... I put Ammo-Lock and Stress Coat and Stress Zyme in the water I added. All that has literally happened overnight
The one sick guppy and the goldfish seem to be having swimming issues as they keep floating onto their sides or momentarily straight up or down or upside down. The goldfish has spent most of the day sitting on the bottom of the tank.
be aware that because you have used ammo lock your testing for ammonia wont be accurate as ammo lock changes ammonia to ammonium which will still show as having ammonia in the tank when you use a test kit. better off using prime as that will get rid off ammoia nitrite and nitrate
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either a dragon or a delta siamese fighter. my delta hang around the top 80% of the time and would occasionally chase the guppy's for a brief second but slower swimmers so never caused any damage
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use two nets
have caught rainbows and sharks that way which imo are quicker than loaches -
Maybe excess carbon is causing an algae bloom?? If I'm reading correctly you have CO2 injection and you're using Excel, both sources of carbon.
yeah im running both co2 and excel, the co2 is at a current rate of 1 bubble per 5 seconds which isn't much at all and dosing 3ml of excel every other day. maybe i should stop both of them and do what skippy has suggested and just blackout the tank for a few days. problem with that is ive got new glosso shoots coming through and will suck if they start to die off :facepalm:
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How well did you wash that silica sand? And what sort of filtration are you running? I would fill your filter with filter wool (it will require more cleaning probably every week or so but monitor flow) and see if it is really fine particles that can be filtered out from the sand not being washed well enough..
nah its definitely not the sand aye, i washed it in small batches numerous times until the water was crystal clear and my 4 foot has silica sand and haven't had issues with that. filtration wise i'm running a 2213 substrat pro etc and its got a fair bit of filter wool that i replaced only a few days ago
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So my tank has been cloudy now for around two weeks and ive tried to get rid of the problem but havent had any luck so far. Although the tank has been running for a few months now and was properly cycled with stability and a few small fish, i thought it may have been new tank syndrome, but with ammonia and nitrite being pretty much zero and the nitrate levels have never gone over 15ppm i dont think it is? Figured it may then be an algae issue as its a newly setup planted tank running co2 injection, ferts and a HO glo t5 unit. Ive stopped using ferts this week and continued using flourish excel to see if the cloudiness and/or algae has stopped but haven't really noticed any improvement. Have been doing major water changes 3-4 times a week incase it was the potassium nitrate causing the problem, which improves it for a while but then returns back to the normal cloudiness after a short time. Hopefully someone can shed some light on the issue?
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ive used salt with both loaches and a fire eel and have been sweet by doing half the recommended dose, maybe use melafix and pimafix together as these are safe with all types of fish
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Well I went to Animates on Saturday and got myself a Fluval heater, Bubbilo pump and a starfish airstone and two thermometers. One is a stick on strip one and the other is a normal type thermometer that goes in the water. I'm a bit stumped... I have the heater and the pump going and I set the heater on 20C at first but the water was still cold so I kept turning it up slowly but it was still cold and I think it's on about 25C now yet the normal type thermometer is saying the water is 22C and the stick on one says it's 21C I think. :dunno:
Those stick on strip thermometers measure the temperature of the glass so don't give an accurate measurement of the water temperature so you may as well not use it, and with the difference between the heater temperature and the glass thermometer will be that the heater may need calibrating. I know its usually recommended to wait 24 hours to see if it needs doing, both my jager heaters had a difference of 3 degrees when i got them. hopefully you have the issue solved
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Bro maybe cut down on the pill popping aye :facepalm:
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nice setup and good choice with the agazizi
Look at this insane female cacatuoides!
in Cichlids
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that males got seriously nice colour aye, combined with that decent female should make for some decent offspring