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Who has dragons for sale?


TM

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How do you know the green iguanas were put down. New of two down this way that were not put down. They have since died though.

Thanks for the other info, anyone on here selling them?

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Seems that maf targeted public displays mainly with the zoo and a few other reptile displays having theirs taken, you get a differerent story depending on who you talk to, I am surprised people arent sueing the original supplier as if they were all above board surely the correct paperwork could have been produced! I got photos of a few of the iguanas on display, they were very beautiful reptiles, if diseased then fair enough but I hope they were'nt just trying to make a point because all they have proberbly done if push all the remaining owners underground.

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Concidering they need and will only eat live food most of the time.

Not true. Ours eat beans, dandilions, capsicum, apple, prepared food soaked in water, as wella s mealworms and crickets.

If you want beardies then definatly check out this guy. Really knowlegeable, beautiful well looked after lizards. Not sure if he'd be keen to ship, but I'm sure you could work something out.

I'd fully recomend beardies over water-dragons or blue tongues, so much more interesting and interactive. They are a bit of work when they're younger, but so worth it!

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but if you want them to grow to optimum size etc they need the live food more.The recommended ratio is 80%protein(insects etc)20%veges with plenty of d3 and uv lighting.This ratio reverses in adult dragons and they get 80%veges 20% protein.

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but if you want them to grow to optimum size etc they need the live food more.The recommended ratio is 80%protein(insects etc)20%veges with plenty of d3 and uv lighting.This ratio reverses in adult dragons and they get 80%veges 20% protein.

Correct, although I'm not sure what it has to do with what I said. Someone said they ONLY eat live food, so I was merely pointing out they do eat other stuff quite readily. I didn't suggest replacing the live food with veges etc.

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Guest Anonymous

I meant that they would do better with a diet of mainly live food when they are young. But still in most cases it is difficult to get them to eat non-live food later on because they have not been give a variety of foods after they have been bought from the breeders. They get pampered......we're all guilty of this.

I'd fully recomend beardies over water-dragons

Agreed, if you dont have the time to put into growing a lizard up, and taming. Beardies are certainly the easiest lizard avaliable in New Zealand right now. Doesnt take much to keep them happy.

I guess thats why I like the waterdragons. They need a bit more attention. They're more challenging. They take a good year or two to get used to their handler. They have to learn, and this regard I would concider them more intellegent. Totally worth it.

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I guess thats why I like the waterdragons. They need a bit more attention. They're more challenging. They take a good year or two to get used to their handler. They have to learn, and this regard I would concider them more intellegent. Totally worth it.

What type of enclosure do you keep your waterdragons in?

does anyone know the best way of breeding locusts, costing me a packet in live food!

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Pair are in an indoor enclosure at he moment. A large aquarium controlled by a termistat. Rest are outside, in an avairy.

Locusts need a small aquarium with a heatlight during the day. Vermiculite atleast 4" deep at the opposite end from the light. Fresh grass once or twice a day. Vermiculite must be sprayed once a day.

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25c is pretty good! I just used the vermiculite as a laying medium because it held moisture quite well. Sand should be sweet. The hardest part about breeding locusts is feeding them grass every day and spraying water over the laying area. If you can do that, once they start breeding (which can take a while to start with) you shouldnt have a problem.

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not really a major if you want something alive and have to pay the price to get it and the necessary equipment to keep it alive and in good health raising abit of food for it is not too hard.Remember you are only talking one or two,we are talking about raising clutchs of young ones so that can be a bit demanding,just to keep a lizard or two is no drama.Alot of stuff you could find in the average backyard/garden.

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why do you need a substrate for your locusts? if you have a raised bottom with circular holes in you can put cups full of vermeculite in (fine grade). then you gust need to take these cups out once every 2 weeks and put some new ones in and then put the egg cups under a 40w incandecent bulb and within a few days- up to a week or so they should be hatching. if you have more than one cage for locust you can have one for juveniles and one for adults. Only the adults will have the vermeculite cups because only they will be laying. when the locust start to hatch put the whole cup in with the small locusts. I'll take a few photo's of our setup if you don't understand what i mean. For grass you need to replace it 3x a week. you can just cut it from overgrown verges and should be 20-30 cm long- you can cut circular holes in the lids of plastic cups, half fill the cup with water and shove the grass in there and it should be good for 2-3 days. then you can feed them supplements of oat-bran if you are feeling kind. The easiest way to supply water i find, is to have a cup upside down with a few cuts around the rim- have this full of water and sitting in a deep petri dish. if the holes are below edge of the petri dish the petri-dish will fill up with water but not overflow- if you have a 300ml cup this should last a week or two. Again if you don't understand my explanation i'll take some photos for you. Of course you could always buy locusts off biosupplies if you can't be bothered breeding your own- the web address is http://www.ak.planet.gen.nz/%7Ebio/

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a word of caution for prospective locust raisers,be careful where you get your grass from.Even the slightest traces of pesticide or herbicide will not necessarilly kill your breeders but will render them sterile.You can get around this by growing your own food as in sprouted wheat,you have to plan ahead as to how much to grow in advance etc.Also the temperature needs to be quite warm to stimulate good egg production,32 is optimum.40 degrees will kill them.They do not need a water source if the grass is fresh as it needs to be.Also in my experience I had better sucess with pumice sand as a laying medium,I did hatch some with vermiculite but it was not as reliable for me with vermiculite.I moisten the sand add the containers and change once a week for fresh ones wether they have eggs or not as they get too dry and its just as easy to change the lot.They take 18 days from laying to hatch at around 30 degrees.

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Yes DavidB, I agree some pics would be awesome, i am taking out the substrate tonight.

Also I thought locusts get all their moisture from the grass and cabbage leaves and that to much humidty is bad for them.

Thanks also to Repto for your good advice.

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man I dont know if I could feed mice or bird babies :o

Bulldogod, as a new beardie keeper I would recommend getting to grips with breeding locusts and to get a colony going before purchasing the dragon, also mealworms and wax mothes, i didnt do this and it has cost me a bit, hopefully soon i will be self sufficient :wink:

i still think they are awesome and once setup are really cool and respond well to you, i am looking to get even more soon.

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Guest Anonymous

From reading over this topic it probably does sound like water/bearded dragons are a lot of work. But they arent, still less work than an aquarium, if your set up is good.

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