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Pegasus

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Posts posted by Pegasus

  2. HI EVERYONE!

    in Welcome

    Posted

    Was wondering where you were Caper... missed your posts and your frequent visits.

    Losing something is always hard to get over.. (I recently lost two cats that we had had for thirteen years.. they went within months of each other).. so I know how you feel.

    Once you get back into the flow, things will seem better.

    Welcome back :):)

    Bill.

  3. Bio-Balls

    in Saltwater

    Posted

    Simple answer here... set up your own mini moulding unit.

    Many...no... many many years ago in my days of model railway building.. I used to convert a lot of three rail stock to two rail for quite a number of the club members.

    We were always short of carriage wheels.. and the new stock had pin point axels.. which for our meager funds were a costly comodity.. so we designed an injection moulder that used surplus old plastic and the steel axels were turned on a mini lathe.

    From here we went on to make all manner of plastic bits for the hobby.. including ... well... thats another story :)

    It was basically a large soldering iron mounted to the side of a ram.

    The iron was several hundred watts if I remember right.. and the copper head was shaped to go around the ram.. but these days.. any good heating element would do.

    Bits of (in our case).. black hard plastic were chopped up and put into the top of the ram, then the piston was pushed in on top of the plastic chips.

    Once the plastic had melted.. the ram (piston) was forced down with a simple lever system, and the molten plastic was extruded into a mould (mold).. which in our situation was multi spoked wheels... so a simple ball mold would be easy.

    I'm planning on making a similar setup now.. but in this case for stock car wheels.. (Slots).. grankids and grandpa... he he... but time is the prob at the mo.

    Just a thought... but if you want thousands.. then the world is full of redundant plastic he he.

    I can draw it up if you want details.

    I've aso made a few Vacuum Forming units.. so a two half ball might work :)

    Bill.

  4. Tank Building Tips wanted :)

    in DIY Section

    Posted

    All points accepted Alanmin and like you... no offence meant.

    Just jumping back a few decades.. I had an LFS in England.. and back then all the tanks were Angle Iron.

    Sorry Spiderweb.. for diverting on the topic.. but your replies seem pretty good he he.

    Anyway.. I had a friend who also had an LFS, and he imported the Jewel tanks.. which were actually all glass.. but sealed with silicone.. and had a light anodized aluminium frame around them. (Jewel are still going BTW)..

    In his shipping list he obtained a few toothpaste sized tubes of Dow Corning Silicone.. for which he offered me a couple.

    I made a small tank up.. 18X10X10 and filled it later and set it up in the shop with a couple or so of Goldfish in it.. (very early 60's .. '61 I think BTW)

    You would have thought I'd invented Fire... the customers went balmy over it and couldn't understand how the thing was holding together.

    A day or so later a rep came in the shop from Evode.. the big glue people that made Evostick among other things.

    He asked me to trial "their" product of silicone.. for free.. and gave me half a dozen cartridges of the stuff for FREE... Yehaa FRREEBEES.

    Needless to say I was blown away.. but on trial the tanks began to fungus.. so I told the rep.

    They sorted the prob and he brought me a new case of 24 cartridges for free.

    I built 60 new tanks for the shop.. all glass... plus four large display tanks five footers.. then 40 more quarantine tanks.. and the guy kept stocking me up with free silicone.

    All these were built after extensive trials for strength and endurance.. plus contamination tests and such.

    The big debate at the time was "Edges on TOP of the base.. or the face of the glass to the edge of the base.."

    2 foot.. 3 foot.. 4.. 5.. and six footers were built.. with absolutely no "proven" difference in the reliability or strength due to the position of the front and rear panes.. and the only "objectional" feature was that the raw edge showed in one method.

    Cutting this short... I sold hundreds of tanks after this.. plus started a rental service for pubs, clubs, school, etc all with the AGT's... and even put forty in the local University Research Dept.. then the shops got wind of it all and were ordering tanks by the dozens.. so my wife and I started supplying the trade.

    One of the tanks that failed.. (a five foot by eighteen by eighteen).. . that I mentioned above.. was in a pub on an old oak shelf.. eight foot off the deck.. it exploded with a great gush.. but it was not the Silicone.. just the heavy hood that the client had decided to use instead of the ones I offered to supply.. which were light weight.

    BTW: I replaced this tank THREE TIMES for free thinking it was my fault.. but after close examination of all the remains.. it was found that each front glass that failed was chipped in the same place.. due to the heavy hood he was using.

    Oh well happy days.. the early days of the AGT's in England, and I can honeastly say that I was one of the key leaders in getting the AGT's off the ground in those days... which "still" doesn't make me an authority on the subject.. as we are all learning every day, and just offer our knowledge and experience to others if we can.

    Once again.. sorry for the diversion.

    Bill.

  5. Tank Building Tips wanted :)

    in DIY Section

    Posted

    Well... Alanmin I find the latter part of your post to be quite insulting to my intellegence.

    No mention was made that "I personally" used packings.. and I did say...

    Some mask off with masking tape to hide the excess.. but truth is.. you DON'T need a lot of silicone to hold the seam..

    How you manage this I don't know... :)

    I don't normally make tanks with the front glass glued to the side of the base but when I have...

    You will need to make sure the glass cutting is more accurate

    Glass is (by the looks of the pic).. sat in the cabinet.. a dis-assembled tank.

    SW said:

    but the tank was disassembled and as you can see the stand is going to need some refinishing

    We are "hopefully" here to offer assistance and opinions to others in need of help.. not to critisize someone elses methods.. as in this instance there are quite a number of variations.

    The packing BTW.. as I understand it.. (but have never used it).. is apparently to give the seam a bit of flex as the pressure builds up on the walls of the tank... no glass to glass contact.

    To say you have "never seen a tank built that way".. all I can say is that you must be living on the Chathams,... not in CC :)

    I think if you examine any commercially made tank you will find that there is "indeed" a certain thickness of silicone between the faces of the glass and the edges.. especially on the larger size tanks.

    Don't want to cause a ruckus here.. but since I built my first AGT in the very early sixties using Dow Corning Silicone, I have only ever had a couple of tanks fail.. and that wasn't the silicones fault .. so I "do" have a little bit of knowledge on the subject... :)

    There may be a sound reason for doing it that way or it may just be something in the water up there.

    Wouldn't know about this... don't touch it... on tank water he he.

    Bill.

  6. Tank Building Tips wanted :)

    in DIY Section

    Posted

    Sit and think about the finished product...

    You "obviously" don't want the raw edges of the glass showing at the front.. so the front pane sits with its base on the stand.. and the two ends would then go "inside" the front and back pane... so in reality.. the base sheet would be completely surrounded by the four other panes of glass.. ie: inside the glass box you made.

    Cleaning

    First job... Make sure all the old glass is ABSOLUTELY spotless .. no old silicone.. oil.. or fingerprints.. "before" you start.

    Scrape with a razor blade or good scraper.. then work like the blazes to get those edges spotless... or you will have probs down the track.

    Taping

    As regards the tape..

    Tape is "great" for the job... no fuss.. easily removed.. non-protruding etc.. so just make sure you have something like 200mm strips around the corners (across the front and sides.. not DOWN THE SEAM).. and place about four or five of these at each corner... plus ones coming under the base and up the front.. perhaps six or eight for this length of tank.

    Use 25mm wide "Masking Tape".. it's cheap and effective.

    Sealing

    Some pack the glass out slightly.. (especially on large tanks).. so that the silicone can actually get in between the seams.

    Some use matchsticks.. or tooth picks.. then just prior to it all setting.. they remove them and put a small smear over where the spacers were.

    Using the Cartridge gun

    Air powered cartridge gun... Wow.. not heard of that one... and for my money (and I've built hundreds of all sizes of tanks).. the old cartridge gun is easy to use.. and works for me.

    You will find your own method.. but I work from the corner out in all directions.. then I use the CAP from a felt tipped pen (large end).. and run that up the seam at around a 45 degree angle.

    This puts a nice finish to the seam.. with little clean up.

    Some mask off with masking tape to hide the excess.. but truth is.. you DON'T need a lot of silicone to hold the seam.. and adding MORE SILICONE after the first layer is cured is a pure waste of time and money.

    Do it right... first time.. :)

    Curing Time

    It is VITAL that you allow at LEAST three days before you EVEN THINK ABOUT MOVING the tank after sealing.. and preferably at least a week before you half fill it to test it.

    Testing for leaks

    Do the test on a firm base.. (outside if you can... you never know.. and carpet drying is expensive these days.. he he)

    Leave it for a day or more half filled... then top it up gradually while you watch for probs.

    Get it Level and Firm

    BIG important point.. is to "Get yourself a spirit level.. a long one".. because tanks that size (any size for that matter).. need to be DEAD LEVEL... both across the front and ends.

    It also needs to sit on a styrene base pad.. "PRIOR" to filling.. or adding ANY water.

    I would use a 25mm styrene pad for a tank that size.

    Well.. hope this helps.. and the best of luck with your project.

    Take care now.

    Bill.

  7. Pond Questions

    in Coldwater

    Posted

    Keeping the water clean

    An old trick that they use on larger ponds and dams.. and such.. is to throw a bale of hay into the pond.

    Over time this becomes a mini type biological filter that attracts algae and microbes like a magnet.

    One place in the mid North that I used to visit had several ponds and waterfalls running in the display area of his tree nursery business.

    He knew I was into fish.. and was pretty proud of his ponds.. until he saw the expression on my face when I "tried" to peer through the green soup to see his fish.

    "Err... Shouldn't it be like that Bill..?" he asked.

    "I thought the fish would be quite happy in those conditions, cos there are nearly "always" on the surface peering at me".. he said.. (gasping more like)

    Anyway.. to cut the story short.. we aquired a bale of fresh hay... dumped it near one of the areas of most water flow so that it acted like a filter... and a week or so down the track you could have drank that water as it was so crystal clear.

    The bale (which should remain tightly bound)... should be removed carefully after say three or four months.. and a new one put in its place.

    Bill (Pegasus)...

    1st Post in CW Section :)

  12. Hi there from Hamilton

    in Welcome

    Posted

    Hi there Psyc,

    Sounds like you have lots of interests there to share with the members.

    Hope you can post some pics at some time.

    Big welcome to the Fishroom.

    Guys get in the chat room around 9pm most nights if you want to meet a few.

  15. HELP! My miserable beautiful angels!

    in Diseases

    Posted

    I am wondering if maybe that wasn't such a good idea.

    Certainly wasn't a good idea.. but it's done now :)

    If the tank has no fish in it now, I would boil.. or dump the gravel and give the tank a good clean and sterilize.. then set it up again.

    More than likely there would have been a lot of anerobic or bad bacteria in the old gravel.. plus goodness knows what else.

    Hope they come right.

    Bill

  17. Newbie with MTS

    in Welcome

    Posted

    Welcome cessa.. and you too Foxglove.

    All the answes are here.. you just have to do lots of reading.. or pick our brains :)

    Hope you both enjoy your visits, and we all look forward to reading about your progress.

  20. Bubbles!!!

    in Beginners Corner

    Posted

    I know if the fishies are gasping at the top, it's a sign they're not getting enough oxygen, but what if they just hang around up there? Does it mean the same?

    Again.. the same situation applies.. like the slim and bulky fish..

    Many fish prefer the surface.. and usually the mouth gives the clue which area they like.

    Mollies and such have an upturned mouth and might spend a fair time on the surface.. but will also frequent other areas.. and many catfish prefer the bottom of the tank.. and others like the mid ranges.

    Thing here is that if a fish is "normally" a lower region fish, and you see it constantly at the surface.. then there may be a prob.

    as you say.. fish that are obviously gasping at the surface are a sure sign there is trouble somewhere.

    Observation is the thing.. not just watching

    If your fish look relaxed.. then chances are you will be :)

    Bill.

  21. Help Please

    in Freshwater

    Posted

    Hi there cldlr76.. welcome to the forums.

    Gouramies are Anabantoids.. in other words, they breathe surface air.. so if you have a decen sized tupperware container or something, you could float it on the surface of you exiting tank for a night or so... it will be fine.

    Don't overfeed it while it is in there.. and ensure the water is kept clean.

    If you are going to transport the fish.. make sure the bag is well inflated with 2/3rds air.. and one third water.

    HTH :)

  22. Bubbles!!!

    in Beginners Corner

    Posted

    Oh by the way Bill, I removed the airstone from the tank with my barbs & red eyes, the barbs are going down the other end of tank more often now

    As mentioned earlier.. be careful if you turn the air off.. as your fish load may need the extra air supply.

    You must be able to control the flow.. rather than stopping it completely.

    Bill.

  23. Sick fish - beginner needs help

    in Diseases

    Posted

    Hi Jame.. welcome to the forums.

    You say:

    Is it significant that they gather in the corner nearest to where the bubbles from the air pump rise?

    The fish are telling you that something is drastically wrong.

    A fish that constantly hides is usually afraid of something..

    One that floats to the surface has usually a swim bladder disorder..

    One that gasps at the surface .. or congregates near the most water disturbance normally means poor water conditions.. or the lack of disolved oxygen in the water... or perhaps the temp is too high.

    In your situation.. it sounds like your tank water is high in ammonia..

    The largest of my fish (about 12cm long) has developed red blemishes where the caudal, anal and pectoral fins meet the body, and also on the side of the body. Its fins are held flat against the body, and it often darts around and bashes itself into the gravel. It also seems to gasp often. At other times it is almost motionless, resting in an inclined position on one of the filters. There also appears to be some deterioration of the caudal fin at its V.

    The redness could possibly be from high ammonia content.. or high stress levels...

    The darting around could also be caused by ammonia.. as it is literally burning the gills and scales from the fish.

    Fish with white spot will often flash against something.. but usually are not suicidal by bashing themselves into the gravel.

    The "motionless" fish are probably too exhausted to move.. and are possibly at a point of giving in.

    The loss of sheen or glossyness is also a sign of stress or ammonia probs.

    The missing scales "may" be due to the fish scraping the gravel.. but once these scales come off.. then the fish is open to infection.

    You say that one of your fish is 120mm long..

    A hundred litres sounds a big amount.. but for Goldfish.. (seven of them).. you seem to have rushed into things a little too fast.. which appears to be around three days.

    What you need at this point is lots of water changes.. around 25% two or three times a week.. or more if you can afford the time.. plus you need to get some air flowing in there.. as the fish are hanging around the only place they know there is enough air to support them.

    A good airstone should do the trick.

    Your fish need "immediate" treatment.. and if they were mine.. I would give them a daily salt bath.. as follows.

    Get a couple of 10ltr buckets handy and some Sea Salt from the supermarket.. (blue bag.. costs around three bucks)

    Thoroughly mix two heaped tablespoons of the salt into one bucket filled with tank water.

    It's important to make sure it is thoroughly mixed "before" adding the fish.

    Fill the other bucket in readness for the treated fish.

    Net a couple of the fish and pop them into the bucket with the salt mix in.

    Leave them in there for around ten minutes.. but keep a watch on them to ensure they don't stress out too much.

    They may protest slightly.. but don't worry.. but if they are obviously stressing out.. then reduce the salt mix slightly by diluting the water with tank water... but only do this if they won't settle in the bucket.

    After ten mins.. pop them into the other bucket.

    Repeat for the rest of the fish.

    If they seem content in the salt mix.. then you can extend the time somewhat.

    IMPORTANT:

    You will have to repeat the above "every day" until the fish recover.

    Use a fresh mix each day.. and you can increase the salt content slightly if the fish are comfortable with the treatment.

    This is what is known as the "Progressive Salt Treatment.

    What it does is it flushes the old mucus from the fish which allows new mucus to quickly form.. as any fish without the mucus is an open target for disease and infection.

    Might be a good time to do a water change while all this is going on.

    There "could" be white spot cysts on the bottom.. so use a siphon and go over as much of the bottom as you can.

    I would also concentrate on this.. more than the White Spot at the moment.. as what you have can kill your fish far quicker if you don't sort it out quickly. Once the fish start to look a bit healthier.. then you can continue the WS treatment if they still have it.

    Hope it goes well.

    Take care now.

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