Adrienne

All rainbow fish are fast constantly moving fish and noes mani get quite large so when planting give consideration to the fact that you will need to leave a large space in the tank for them to zip up and down in. I think that your dwarf gourami, unless they stay well out of the way, may be frightened and injured. This is just from my previous experience in keeping rainbows in s 450 litre tank

All rainbow fish are fast constantly moving fish and noes mani get quite large so when planting give consideration to the fact that you will need to leave a large space in the tank for them to zip up and down in. I think that your dwarf gourami, unless they stay well out of the way, may be frightened and injured. This is just from my previous experience in keeping rainbows in s 450 litre tank

I'm heading down to Tauranga on 15 June - if anyone has any goods which they want taken down and can get them to me before the morning of the 15th then I am happy to play courier.  They would need to be picked up from me at the Tauranga end on the evening of the 15th.  Preferably only dry goods.  PM me if you are interested.    

Tips on setting up your fish tank.
https://kiwiliving.nz/pets/tips-for-setting-up-a-home-aquarium
https://kiwiliving.nz/media/982/4980698807001
 

It looks to me like it is one of the tanks with a plastic ring around the bottom which keeps the glass bottom from sitting on the stand. You therefore need to properly support the ring so I would go with the plywood suggestion and even put a bead around the edge of the ply to make it even safer. (advice from shaky town)

Waikato, Auckland and Hawkes Bay clubs trip to Napier to have an overnight stay at the National Aquarium.
This event was organised by the Waikato Aquarium Society. 

Every tropical fish room needs some sort of heating - at least if you are not living near the equator. My fish room (even so it is highly insulated) needs heating for about nine month of the year, which is pretty much autumn, winter and spring - especially on clear days which therefore are usually cold. On those days the heat demand is great, but so is the solar radiation! So the obvious thing to do is to build some sort of collector that use the solar radiation, transform it into warm air and heats the fish room with it.
The idea for the design of the solar heat collector came from the Aluminium Window Screen Solar Air Heating Collector on the Build-It-Solar website. I changed the design a little bit to accommodate my requirements and to suit our climate here in New Zealand. The collector is pretty much a wooden black box that contains a frame with one layer of black aluminium fly screen on both sides and corrugated polycarbonate glazing to seal the collector. Cold air enters the bottom of the collector and needs to pass at some stage through the fly screen to exit at the top back. While traveling through the fly screen the heat exchange takes place and the air heats up. Once hot and risen to the top, a 12V blower pushes the air through a plastic pipe inside the fish room. That's the principal, let's get a bit more technical now.
The back of the collector box is made out of a treated 10mm sheet of plywood with the measurements of 2.4m x 1.2m. The top, sides and bottom are made out of treated boards that are 25mm thick and 150mm wide and are glued and screwed to the plywood back. The top is slightly tilted forward to ensure rain can run off. The bottom has eight 50mm holes which are covered with fly screen. They allow cold air to enter the collector but keep out insects. Everything on the inside is painted flat black to help a better heat absorption. I didn't insulate the collector since the temperatures in the Waikato are not as extreme as in America where the original design comes from. Inside the collector is a frame made out of 20mm x 20mm wood that is also painted black. Both sides of the frame are covered with black aluminium fly screen. The frame will act as absorber and heat exchanger for the air while traveling through the collector. The frame is mounted at the very back at the bottom and at the front up the top which means it sits diagonal inside the collector which helps forcing the air through the screens before exiting at the top back. Here is a 78mm hole cut into the collector. This lines up perfectly with a hole I cut through the outside wall of the fish room. A plastic pipe is inserted into this hole and siliconed into place to prevent water entering the fish room and collector. Inside the collector a 12V blower fan is mounted at the end of the pipe with the following specifications:
Air Volume: 26(CFM), Input: 10.32W, Static Pressure: 25mm
I decided against a normal fan due to the (nearly) perfectly sealed fish room. Normal fans have very low static pressure and wouldn't be able to push the air inside the sealed fish room. But with 25mm static pressure the blower manages to push air inside the room with 2.7m/s or 531ft/min measured at the end of the pipe inside the fish room. The collector is covered with corrugated polycarbonate sheets. Foam profiles seal everything perfect at the top and bottom and rubber profiles seal both sides so there is no gap between the sheets and the wooden frame for hot air to escape or cold air to enter the collector. I didn't use Twinwall-Polycarbonate sheets because they are very expensive and again we don't have the extreme temperatures here. It was more important to me to get the maximum radiation onto the fly screen.
My fish room is perfectly aligned East-West so one side wall gets sun all day long. Here I mounted the collector with brackets and stainless steel screws directly onto the fish room wall and stained the outside the same way as the rest of the fish room. That way the collector blends in nicely and doesn't stick out too much.
The fan gets controlled by two cheap digital temperature controllers from Shenzhen Meihang Electronic Co, Ltd. This is necessary because not always is the air in the collector warmer than the inside of the fish room. For example at night and on a very cloudy day the temperature will be below the required 23C. So the fan needs to get turned on only when the temperature in the collector is above 23C but needs to be turned off when the maximum temperature of 28C inside the fish room is reached.
Therefore the controller, which sensor is inside the collector, is operated in cooling mode (HC = C) with the temperature (HC temp) set to 23C and the temperature range (CP) set to 2C. When the temperature inside the collector reaches 25C the relaise gets closed. When the temperature in the collector reaches 23C, the relaise opens again.
The controller with the sensor inside the fish room is operated in heating mode (HC = H) with the temperature (HC temp) set to 28C and the temperature range (CP) set to 5C. When the temperature inside the fish room goes under 23C the relaise gets closed and opens up again once the temperature reaches 28C.
The blower is wired in series to both controller relaise and only turns on when both are closed. This happens when the collector temperature is above 25C AND the inside temperature of the fish room is between 23C and 28C.
So far so good - but how is the collector performing? How much energy is he creating? According to the Build-It-Solar website, we can determine the heat output of a collector by measuring just two things:
The temperature rise of the air from the collector inlet to the collector outlet and The quantity of air flowing through the collector. The heat output is directly proportional to the product of these two quantities.  Any collector design change that increases this product increases the heat output of the collector. The actual heat output is:
Qout = (Vair)*(Aduct)*(Dair)*(Toutlet - Tinlet)*(Cair)
 
Where:
Vair = average air velocity out the outlet duct (ft/min)
Aduct = the total area of the outlet duct(s)  (ft^2)
Dair = density of air  (lb/ft^3)
Toutlet = average temperature of the air exiting the outlet duct (deg F)
Tinlet = average temperature of the air entering the inlet duct (deg F)
Cair = specific heat of air (BTU/lb-F)
Dair is 0.075 lb/ft^3 at sea level and 60F, but the air density decreases as it is heated, so for normal collector temperatures, 0.065 lb/ft^3 is pretty good. Cair is 0.24 BTU/lb-F
 
For my specific collector at 10am on a sunny winter day in New Zealand we have:
Aduct = 0.051sqft (the area of the outlet pipe)
Toutlet = 119.84F (the average air temperature of the outlet air)
Tinlet = 41F (the average air temperature of the inlet air)
Vair = 531ft/min (the average velocity of the air in the outlet pipe)
 
Then, the collector output would be:
Qout = (Vair)*(Aduct)*(Dair)*(Toutlet - Tinlet)*(Cair)
Qout = (531 ft/min)*(0.051 ft^2)*(0.065 lb/ft^3)*(119.84 F - 41 F)*(0.24 BTU/lb-F)
Qout = 33.31 BTU/min,  or 1,998 BTU/hr or 0.585 kW/hr or 585W/hr
 
The fan uses 10W and the two controllers use 3W each so effectively the collector creates 569W of free energy in form of warm air that heats my fish room!

 
Cheers,
JaSa

Yes the overflow box will need drilling.
have you looked through the guides on here for more info on your set up http://aquariumworld.nz/fish/articles-guides/tropical-marine/
Try contacting Raymond - lotofish on here as he builds systems
 
 

Try sending Hovmoller or DavidR a message for more detailed information.  I think both have kept these but I may well be wrong.

Welcome   A good rule of thumb with discus is one mature discus per 50 litres.  That is for a species only tank.  Less than 5 discus can be risky though as generally the odd one out will be picked on by the other two.  More so when they are mature and if you have a pairing up of two of them.  Discus, if you haven't kept them before are best purchased over 6cm in size, which should be around six months old - if they have been well raised and are healthy.  Younger and smaller than this they are a lot of work and don't do well in a planted tank.  There is a lot of rubbish discus out there so make sure you choose fish which are good colour, good round shape, not hiding at the back of the tank and ask to see them eating.  If they spit the food out I recommend you walk away from the whole tank lot.
Cardinals look spectacular in a discus tank particularly in numbers - I recommend a minimum 10.  They also handle the higher tank temps which are needed to keep your discus healthy.  You have clearly done some research - when I looked at the list the Kribs were really the ones that stuck out as potential problems if they pair up to breed as they can be highly territorial and often only one parents raises the fry, having given the other parent a beating.
I don't really know enough about elephant nose fish to comment.
Longfin BN are spectacular - my personal observations are that adult BN tend to struggle if tanks get over about 28 degrees.  I kept them in my discus tank, the fins did tend to get a bit torn on the driftwood.  Try and get two males rather than a pair as males are pretty rough on the females once they mature.  If they do breed you would likely have to remove the young as the discus will pick them off.
Filtration is a good topic.  a minimum of 4 x the turnover would see you requiring around 1200lph minimum.  It is important to keep the airation/water movement up in any tank and more so at higher temperatures.  With a heavily driftwood/planted tank 4 x is unlikely to get through and around the wood/plants giving dead spots which is where waste will accumulate.  Options would be to get a larger single filter - I would recommend around the 2000lph or a second fluval filter.  My discus tank was 450 litres and I ran an FN5 plus a Sunsun 1400lph filter on it and 2 powerheads to keep the flow circulating.  UV - anything over 24 watts is a steriliser, under is a purifier.  A slower water movement through the UV sleeve is needed for proper sterilisation as the water has more contact time with the UV light.
Regarding disease - you are best to quarantine all new additions for at least four weeks.  Less time and some diseases won't show themselves.  Four weeks and they should.  
Would love to see photos of your set up when you get started, progress reports with pics are always welcome.
 

Update photo because I was talking about this to someone today  babies are now in with their parents and are busy growing and looking adorable 24/7  I've ended up with about 15-20 babies  

Hopefully nobody dies from them today :-)
There would have been more but Mark kept sneaking them yesterday ;-)

OMG - your banoffee cupcakes are to die for

Here is the President, Mark, and former Secretary, Cam, working hard at the AGM this morning.
They were able to concentrate due to large cups of coffee plus fortification with banoffee cupcakes (with caramel filling & cream cheese icing), Afghan, Hokey Pokey and Milo biscuits, and chocolate cake 

Thank you for your reply Cichlids is what I will be keeping

I have been in contact with the LFS over the last two days. They have come back and said the supplier will give me a replacement filter with no piping as the piping that came with the original filter I cut during the initial setup. OR if I buy replacement piping the LFS will let me chose another filter/brand. Overall I'm quite happy with that and think it has turned out fair. The staff member was incredibly helpful and the store has proved itself when it comes to customer service. 
Thanks to all that replied to the original thread. 

Thanks, tried all of the above, so did the guys at the store. Will keep it running for several more days and see if the problem sorts itself. 

I would like to thank all those who have put their name forward for various positions on the executive this year, it is heartening to see such enthusiasm from people who have good skills they can bring to the FNZAS.
No offence is meant (either to current or future officers) but I do hope those putting their hand up are also prepared to work hard in their positions. We tend to lose people who feel that, oft-times, they are beating their head against a brick wall but if you can get a group of enthusiasts working in unison, great things can happen!

The Walt Smith rock has been added and two trips made to the Takapuna Boat Ramp to collect NSW which I then pumped through a 1 micron filter to prevent parasites etc getting in to the tank.  The tank was filled on 27 January.  NB the small piece of rock centre front won't be staying there.

left side

right side

On 4th February the skimmer was turned on and a small piece of live rock added (from my other tank).  Since then a bag of coral rubble has been added to the sump and a prawn (dead) put in to the tank to start the cycle.  No readings so far.  

Another update.
My tank arrived back yesterday looking heaps tidier than when it left with new silicon around the edges, the overflow and circulation outlets attached.  The photos are not great - the tank is in a high light room as it faces a wall of floor - ceiling windows and my Christmas tree means I can not pull the drapes at the moment - but you will get the general idea.

If you continue to do regular largish water changes ie 40-50% your cycle will still be going and that will be why you have zero nitrates.  You are correct 'now with the nitrite spike I wonder if the cycle is not complete'.  Nitrate tests are a precise thing, if you do not follow the instructions exactly (and I am not suggesting you are not, but the lfs may not be) then you will not get an accurate reading.   Bristlenose are the biggest waste producers ever and your tank is a bit small for even one - they will keep your cycling going.  Unfortunately nitrite, as you know is toxic to fish, prime will help lock it into a non toxic form but you will still get readings.   Your driftwood will help lower your pH.  Fish can adapt to higher pH readings, but are less likely to breed.  Swinging pH is far more damaging than pH that is stable but not where your fish prefer it.
My recommendations:
Try changing 10% daily or every couple of days, continue with prime and nitrozorb (it does work) and do as you are doing, keep an eye on your tank readings. 
Don't add any more fish or plants until it is sorted.
It takes several weeks for a tank to complete a cycle (depending on how you do it).

If you continue to do regular largish water changes ie 40-50% your cycle will still be going and that will be why you have zero nitrates.  You are correct 'now with the nitrite spike I wonder if the cycle is not complete'.  Nitrate tests are a precise thing, if you do not follow the instructions exactly (and I am not suggesting you are not, but the lfs may not be) then you will not get an accurate reading.   Bristlenose are the biggest waste producers ever and your tank is a bit small for even one - they will keep your cycling going.  Unfortunately nitrite, as you know is toxic to fish, prime will help lock it into a non toxic form but you will still get readings.   Your driftwood will help lower your pH.  Fish can adapt to higher pH readings, but are less likely to breed.  Swinging pH is far more damaging than pH that is stable but not where your fish prefer it.
My recommendations:
Try changing 10% daily or every couple of days, continue with prime and nitrozorb (it does work) and do as you are doing, keep an eye on your tank readings. 
Don't add any more fish or plants until it is sorted.
It takes several weeks for a tank to complete a cycle (depending on how you do it).

Update:  As of yesterday my readings on the tank had settled.  A 10% waterchange was done using NSW and a largish leather mushroom with galaxy star polyps growing on the lower stem was added.
This morning two blue chromis were added to the tank.  Now I sit and wait

Today the wire was run up the bedroom wall, through the ceiling cavity and down the lounge wall into the hall cupboard.  The photos show it all
Hole lounge side (sits just behind the tank)

Power points in place in hall cupboard (backs the lounge wall)

Lounge side with labelled cables for tank equipment

Hall cupboard side with plugs in sockets - all labelled.  Lighting box currently sitting on the carpet but will be placed on the wall.

and the tank from the front

 

My rabbitfish from the 250 has to go in to it and so the CBB will have to go too as they are best mates.  However the rabbitfish will be the last fish added.
Looking at a moorish idol, a blue tang, pair of clowns and probably a couple of mandarins (may just try and move the existing one) and of course shrimp etc etc.  Not sure what else at this stage as no where near ready.