I've got an ecostyle 47, raised tadpoles before but they were green and golden bell frogs. Going to gradually introduce them to my pond when they start getting back legs.

Anyone got tips?

I am based in Auckland but can travel to pick up.

I'm pretty sure they are the bigger Green Frog's.

I would like some WTF's

What's the best way of catching these things as adults, I hear them all the time at night at my mums place, but as yet have never been able to see one let alone catch one!

I have had heaps of experience caring for the "Big Green's" and would like to try the little fellars.

I've kept green and gold bell frogs many years ago. I have an almost 7yo boy who is obsessed with frogs and is asking for one/some as a pet.

I'm reluctant to indulge him as I know I'll be the only one looking after them, as it goes with kids... But I'm considering it.

I have an empty 150L tank that I could set up with a mesh lid, and a uv light fitting laying around, as well as a fogger.

Because its been a long time since I've kept frogs, I'm after some advice and opinions.

What kind of frogs would do best in the Far North of nz? Our house can get very warm in summer.

What kind of water to land ratio is ideal for them, and what kind of filters are recommended?

Also how many frogs are best to keep? Are they social or is 1 happier? 

Looking forward to hearing your responses! Thanks in advance.

We are first time frog owners

We had eight frogs that morphed Jan/Feb. We ended up with 4 one eyed , 3 two eyes and one no eyed. I was quite amazed that the no eyed one (Stevie) has survived so far. we have kept him separately and hand fed him.

Over the last couple of weeks I have noticed that they are all eating less and Stevie would go for a few days without a feed.

Just over a week ago I gave Stevie and one of the one eyed frogs to a friends daughter. Since she has had Stevie he hasn't eaten a thing and she is getting rather worried. He is in the same tank he lived in here but now has another frog in with him. The other frog is eating .

The room I had them in gets quite warm in the afternoon and at the new place they have the tank on an enclosed veranda. so it would be colder

I wondered if he is just going into hibernation. The other frogs here are sitting around on the land part of their tank ( usually they spend most of the time in the water) hardly moving or eating.

How long does hibernation last ? Will they not eat at all?

Some of the frogs are looking rather thin- how long can they live for without eating?

Stevie"s tank has an inch of water in it and several large rocks and plants for them to climb on. He used to spend a lot of time in the water. Will he need more land area if he is hibernating?

Thanks for any advice- I really want reassurance and facts about hibernation for my friends daughter as she is worried that Stevie will die and she feels responsible.

One eyed frog.

Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps) 2023 breeding.

Does anyone have adult or juvenile Whistling Tree Frogs available right now for sale?

I am South Island based in Christchurch. 

I'll begin with a few pics of my female hi-yellow and one of my male :thup:

so heres the female,

and here's the male i purchased recently,

i had the water tested, and it was fine, although ph was slightly low, and the scutes are just starting to separate on the ridge on his back, so i think hes about to start shedding.

The edge scutes of his shell turned a little lighter in colour a few days ago, his shell smells fine and no soft or brittle patches.

He gets a diet of turtle sticks and bloodworms, with the occasional shimp pellet, and eats some of the plants in his tank, and the water is kept at 24C.

I made a change to his basking area, and he can certainly get out of the water, but i think the change from a rock to a ramp may have discouraged him, this was about a week ago

He has a reptile uvb bulb and heat lamp.

please help me with my turtle, theres no vets anywhere near me that knows what a turtle is.

cheers, Hamish

They are becoming a pest and are now breeding in the wild ☹️

Could tortoise owners share their thoughts/suggestions on what best to feed tortoise, what is the best supplement to add, and what is the best worming treatment.

Thanks

I am new to this forum so it may have been answered before. We are thinking of getting/raising a couple of Frogs in Spring when there is tadpoles. One thing that I am still somewhat unclear on is what kind of cleaning/upkeep will be required once the vivarium is occupied. Does it need to be completely emptied and cleaned on a regular basis? Or is it just a case of changing the water in the frog pool? Also I was thinking of putting a little waterfall in there - is that a done thing?

Thank you for any help.

Also what plants are suitable for green and golden bell frogs and what sort of substrate is best to use?

If anyone has a terrarium already set up that they'd like to share I'd love to see some photos for inspiration

 Thank you

Here is a care sheet for leopard geckos. Please read through it and pass comment.

Thanks

THE LEOPARD GECKOLeopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius)

INTRODUCTION

Leopard gecko’s are without question, one of the easiest lizards to keep as a pet. The reason being that they are very hardy and require little specialized care and equipment. They are relatively small and adapt well in little spaces (although the bigger the better). They are nocturnal which means that they are active in the evening (when you are most likely to be at home).

The leopard gecko is native to dry, rocky habitat in Pakistan, India and Afghanistan. Leopard geckos can live for up to 20 years, some sources have reported up to 25 years! Adults can weigh anything from 50-100g. Generally, females are smaller, averaging 55g, 18-24 cm (but can get bigger), while the males averages 70-90g, 23-28 cm. Adult size (lengthwise) should be reached at around 1 year, by which time the leopard gecko should also be sexually mature. Once the adult size has been reached the leopard gecko may fill-out, continuing to gain weight for another year or so.

Leopard geckos can be quite feisty when they are young. They have to get used to being handled! They often scream at you as hatchlings! This can be quite a shock but not to worry as they do settle and learn to trust you.

Leopard geckos do not mind living together. You can have four or five females together with one male. Never put more than one male together, they will fight and can cause serious injuries. Also bear in mind the size of the geckos. They should be more or less the same size or bullying can occur!

CAGING

Since leopard geckos are small (compared to other lizards kept as pets) and not too active, their habitat/vivarium can be relatively small. They are nocturnal animals so you will not need to worry about adding any lighting! Just make sure that the temperatures are warm enough.

THE VIVARIUM

Leopard geckos can live in glass tanks or wooden vivariums, provided there is enough ventilation. The best size for one leopard gecko is a 2 ft vivarium and a 3 ft vivarium would be ideal for 2 or 3 leopard geckos. Glass tanks are thought to be better as you can easily clean with hot water. You will also need a vivarium style lid with glass tanks.

HEATING

You will need a source of heat but be careful what you use as you could end up burning your little friend! The best source of heat is a heating pad. Put a heating pad at one end under the vivarium and not on both ends. This way your gecko can choose if it would like to be in the warm end or the cooler end. This is very important as leopard geckos cannot regulate their own body temperatures. Geckos soak warmth up through their bellies which aids digestion and will often lie directly on top of the warm patch.

Leopard geckos need a daytime temperature of between 26 to 30 degrees and a night time temperature of between 21 to 23 degrees. If you really want lighting in the vivarium so that you can see them better at night, a red bulb is the best. PLEASE DO NOT FORGET TO TURN THE LIGHT OFF AFTER WATCHING THEM! The vivarium could get too hot. Likewise, never place the vivarium where direct sunlight can shine on it. This too can push the temperatures up too high!

SUBSTRATE

You have to be careful of the substrate you use as many of them can cause impaction (blockages!). Baby’s and juveniles are at most risk of impaction as their digestive tracts are much smaller.

Kitchen paper towels – This is the best substrate to use for babies and juveniles. Its great for adults too but you might prefer a more natural look. I find this to be the best as it is easy to clean up the “messes”. As soon as you notice a “mess” simple remove that piece of paper towel and replace it! Another pro is that it is relatively cheap.

Sand – This must not be used for hatchlings as there is a risk of impaction. It looks natural. It cannot be washed and used again so can become expensive.

Slate tiles – these are also a good option. These can be lifted and cleaned. Make sure they are secure so as not to cause any injuries.

Astro-turf – This is safe to use and can be washed and re-used. Be sure to leave it in the sun to dry completely before returning to the vivarium, as it will rot if left moist.

With all substrates you should consider the ease of removing waste and whether or not the feeder insects can hide away in it making it difficult to remove uneaten insects!

WATER

A shallow water bowl should be provided. Tap water is fine but if you can filter the water, even better! The water bowl should be cleaned and the water replaced every second day to avoid bacterial growth.

HIDES

Hide boxes are very important as geckos like to feel sheltered. They will spend most of there time in them. For a simple setup you can use a 2 litre ice cream tub with a doorway cut out of it. Sphagnum moss or organic peat is great for bedding. There should be one at the warm end and the cool end of the vivarium. This way the gecko can choose to be warm or cool. The hide over the heating pad should be the moist hide. This aids the gecko with the shedding of skin. With a moist hide, simply ensure that you add a little water to dampen (not soak) the moss. Check it every second day.

DÉCOR

Many people like to add branches etc to make the vivarium look more realistic. This is fine. Just make sure that everything is secure so that nothing can fall on your gecko and cause injuries.

FEEDING

You can feed leopard gecko’s mealworms, superworms, silkworms, crickets, locusts and waxworms. They will only eat live (wiggly) food.

Mealworms and Superworms

Mealworms and superworms are an excellent source of fat and energy so can often be used to get your reptiles weight up. It has been said that mealworms and superworms can eat their way through the belly of a leopard gecko. This is not true. Some would say that mealworms are not a good food source. I disagree. If your mealworms are well fed they are an excellent food source. I have raised many leopard geckos on mealworms and superworms without any health issues.

Silkworms

Silkworms are thought to be the best meal for leopard gecko. There nutritional value is excellent. The problem is getting the leopard gecko to eat them as they are not very wiggly. Once they do try them they will happily continue to eat them.

Crickets

Crickets would often be described as the ideal food for leopard geckos. They are the closest things to the gecko’s natural food and the gecko tends to enjoy chasing down the crickets.

You will need to remove any uneaten crickets as they are known to nibble on the geckos! Some breeders leave food in the vivarium for the crickets to eat so that they do not bite the geckos. Personally I prefer to remove uneaten crickets. Better safe than sorry.

Calcium and Multi Vitamins

In addition to feeding you will need to supplement your gecko with calcium and multi vitamins. This is very important as they need supplementation to maintain healthy bones and for the formation of eggs. Geckos can develop a disease known as Metabolic Bone Disease if they do not get enough calcium. The first sign is bendy and flexible limbs. The jaw also becomes slack. Leave an upturned plastic lid in the vivarium with some calcium powder in. Leopard geckos will normally eat it straight out of the lid. If so, you won’t have to worry about dusting their food. If yours will not eat the calcium out of the lid, it is important to “dust” their food. The best way is to put the crickets or whatever you will be feeding them into a small packet or plastic Tupperware. Pour a little calcium powder in and gently shake until the food is covered and then feed it to your gecko. Dust the feeder insects once a week with multi vitamins.

Size of food

The rule is that whatever you are feeding your gecko should not be bigger than the width of the geckos head. This prevents choking and impaction which can happen when they have eaten food that is too big.

Frequency of feeding

Offer your gecko food everyday when it’s still a juvenile and every other day when it is an adult. Bear in mind that every gecko is different. Some like to eat everyday and others will eat every three days. You will soon learn what works for your gecko. As long as the tail is nice and plump, there is nothing to worry about.

SHEDDING

Every couple of weeks your leopard gecko will shed its skin. It is very important that all of the skin comes off. Most of the time the gecko will remove all the skin on its own. They eat the skin. They will need moisture to shed properly which is why the moist hide is so important. It is especially important that the skin comes off of all the toes properly. If shed skin is left on the toes it can dry up and constrict the toes and they might fall off! If, for some reason, the gecko does not remove all the skin properly you will have to help it. Just place your gecko in a shallow bowl with warm water in it. Let it stand in there for a while. You can also spray some warm water on it with a spray bottle. Be careful not to let the gecko get too cold. Gently begin removing the skin that the gecko could not get off. The gecko might not enjoy this but it is necessary.

THE TAIL

The leopard geckos tail can be “let go” just like any other gecko! It is important never to pick up your gecko by its tail. If your gecko does drop its tail, separate it from the others and keep the wound clean until it has recuperated. The tail will regenerate but will not look like it originally did. It normally grows back a slightly different color and shape and will be shorter than before.

BREEDING

Leopard gecko’s can be sexually mature as young as 7 to 8 months but it is not recommended to breed them before the age of 1 year. If the female is too small you run the risk of egg binding and can lose your leopard gecko. Leopard geckos will breed in the warm summer months. A healthy female will lay 2 eggs every 2 to 3 weeks. Incubation varies between 30 and 60 days depending on the temperature they are incubated at.

HATCHLINGS

The hatchlings must be removed from the incubator and placed in a tub with a lid on. The tub must have moist paper towel in it and ventilation holes and placed in a warm vivarium. The hatchling must be kept moist until the first shed which usually happens around day 3. After the first shed you may begin feeding the hatchling on baby mealworms or pinhead to small crickets (remember a good guide to food size is that the length of the insect must not be longer than the width of the baby leopard gecko’s neck). The hatchling can then be moved into a tank that is identical to the adult’s setup. Do not keep adults and hatchlings in the same setup as the adults may try to eat them or bite their tails! Hatchlings must be fed every day.

TREATING MBD

Metabolic Bone Disease

In a blender combine the following:

1 Small can of Hill’s A/D (available at most Vets’)

1 teaspoon calcium powder with vitamin D3

½ teaspoon herp vitamin powder

3 handfuls of mealworms

Blend until completely smooth, pour into ice cube trays and freeze. Store in zip lock bags until ready to use. Thaw one cube at a time for use. Using a medicine dropper, place a drop on the gecko’s nose (careful not to get any in the nostrils!). The gecko will lick it off of its nose. Do this twice a day. Only in extreme situations should you force feed a gecko.

I have personally used this slurry recipe with great success to rehabilitate sick gecko’s which people have given up on and I have taken in.

***If anyone has any gecko's that need rehabilitating please contact me on michigans1976@gmail.com or 09 5366 306.***

I’m 13 and been selling tadpoles and frogs for a few years, this year I have come across a frog and I think it looks like a albino frog. Has anyone seen this before?

I thought I would do my best to do a write up on how to care for Australian or Eastern water dragons as there don't seem to be many out there. As they become more and more popular as pets here in New Zealand, and being the cheapest dragon in NZ, they are often being bought by people who haven't gone and done the research before hand and then ask why they are having problems with their dragons and it turns out they have no UVB light and other basic requirements. Also i'd like to say that I am by no means an expert on these animals but I am using information I have gained through keeping mine, things I have learnt from other more experienced keepers and research I have gathered through many different books and articles on the internet.

Australian or Eastern water dragons

Physignathus lesueurii, lesueurii

Overview

Eastern water dragons are stunning, prehistoric looking lizards that make great pets. They have lots of personality and are very active lizards. They don't take much effort to care for and are easy to set up.

Description

The EWD is a large lizard with males reaching up to 2 1/2 - 3 ft and females reaching 2 - 2 1/2 ft. Adult EWDs can be sexed by the males being larger than females, having a much thicker and shorter head, a much more dominant crest to that of the females and a red underside. Females occasionally have a red underside but males tend to be much more vivid in colour. Females have a much longer and skinnier head, and tend to have much duller colouration, for example the black/grey bar behind their eyes is usually more pale than the male's.

Lifespan

They have been recorded to live up to 28+ years but a common age for captive lizards is 15 years.

Indoor housing

Enclosure size

- Hatchlings (pair) an enclosure measuring 900mm by 450mm by 450mm (L,W,H)

- Yearlings from 1-2 years (pair) an enclosure measuring 1200mm by 600mm by 600mm (L,W,H)

- Adults 3 years plus (pair) an enclosure measuring 1800mm by 600mm by 800mm (L,W,H)

Water dragons being active lizards need lots of room to run around so these dimensions should ideally be the minimum. As they say, the bigger, the better.

Setup

Water

Water dragons weren't given their names for nothing! They require a large pool of water to swim and soak in - the water should be deep enough for them to fully submerge themselves in as they retreat to the water if they feel threatened or scared. They may stay under the water for several minutes and adults even sometimes over an hour! Make sure they can get out of the water with ease if they need to, a piece of wood or a rock emerging from the water is perfect - its also somewhere were they can cool of without actually entering the water. Make sure to either provide a filter for the water or regularly change the water as they defecate in it. It is important to not heat the water as if the water is too warm, you may find your dragon will spend too much time in there and may not hop out to bask. If they stay in the water too long they run the risk of fungal infections. It needs to be kept cool as the water are is their main way to thermoregulate, they will use it to cool off. The water area should be at least 1/4 of the enclosure floor. Adding an air stone or pump to the water may encourage them to enter the water if you find they don't like to go into the water.

Substrate

There are many substrates you can use in your vivarium.

Outdoor turf - This is a very common substrate used by many hobbyists. It is easy to clean, many different colours available, safe for your lizard, and its also quite appealing to the eye. Paper towels are also used but a bit of an eye sore. Tip: purchase two pieces that cover the entire floor so you can wash one while you use the other one.

Sand - This is okay but can be very messy. You also run the risk of impaction if you feed on the substrate. If you use sand I would highly recommend you feed in either a large dish or separate feeding enclosure.

Bark/mulch/aspen - This looks quite effective and is cheap but can also be quite messy. Avoid products made of pine or cedar as it has a very strong smell which is not liked by the dragons at all!

Stones/pebbles - I would stay away from these as small pebbles can be ingested and can cause impaction. They are also very cold and hard.

Sterile potting soil - This can look really nice and you can grow live plants in it but is also very messy, you will be constantly changing the water dish and wiping the front glass etc

These are the most popular substrates but there are more being used. My favourite is outdoor turf because of the above reasons.

Plants

You have the option of live or fake plants, fake plants can be easily cleaned and now look very realistic, they can be pricey though however once you have them they can be used for years. Live plants are more aesthetically pleasing but quite a few are toxic to reptiles and it can be hard to know which ones are and which aren't. Usually ferns are okay, Bromeliads are also fine, there are many more but i wont go into that.

Other decor

You want to have branches in your enclosure! You want different sized branches and rocks so your lizard has many places to run around while being off the substrate. Water dragons are semi arboreal and spend a fair bit of time perched up on branches and logs, a branch over hanging the water is also good.

Lighting and heating

This is a fairly simple aspect to the care of EWDs but many people are often confused about this topic. Water dragons are diurnal lizards so they need UVB/UVA light. A 10.0 UVB bulb is recommended but a 5.0 will do if there are branches close to the light. Tubes are usually preferred over compact bulbs but both do the job - make sure you follow the manufacturers directions as there is a fine line between too much UV and not enough! REMEMBER TO REPLACE THE UVB BULB EACH YEAR!

A basking spot is also required to keep the enclosure at a stable temperature and to create hot and cold ends withing the enclosure. There are many types of lighting to create basking spots. For example; basic spot lights, ceramic heat emitters, infrared bulbs, metal halide bulbs and many more. I prefer just basic spot lights as they are cheap and do the job while still providing light. Stay away from bulbs which claim to provide both heat and UVB as usually this is not the case. Using these bulbs by themselves can lead to lack in calcium absorption which can cause MBD or metabolic bone disease which can permanently damage your lizard and can leave it with major back problems and weak bones. Always purchase a safety cage to cover the bulbs as water dragons are excellent jumpers and can get burned if they touch the bulb. Heat mats are not needed as water dragons in the wild get all their heat from above. Don't use heat rocks! these have been know to cause serious burns to your reptiles. Temperatures in the enclosure should be: cool end - 20-25C, hot end 25-30C and basking spot 35-40C.

Outdoor housing

Water dragons can be kept outside all year round in most places in New Zealand. An outdoor enclosure provides many advantages and you will probably get to see more of their natural behavior. You are also usually able to build a much larger enclosure which makes a happier lizard.

It is usually advised that you keep your dragon indoors for the first and maybe second winter depending on size. Many experienced keepers keep them outside from the beginning as this can help with fertility and makes a much hardier lizard however it is good practice to leave your dragon inside for the first year or so. If you don’t, you may find he will freeze during the winter and not come back out of hibernation and ultimately die.

Enclosure size

The size of an outdoor enclosure should ideally be a minimum of a 2m by 2m by 2m. This could happily house a small group and gives you lots of room to build ponds, plant shrubs etc. I won’t go into how to build enclosures but there are a few threads on here showing other peoples enclosures.

viewtopic.php?f=40&t=37799

Set up

Water

An outdoor enclosure enables you to build or purchase a much larger pond or similar. Just like the indoor enclosures you want to keep the water clean. Investing in a pond filter will save a lot of time cleaning.

Substrate

For substrate there are the indoor options or you could do a mixture of substrates to mimic their natural habitat. In an outdoor set up I would use bark or mulch as you don’t need to worry so much about the mess and it looks very natural.

Plants

There are many types of plants you can use. A few examples are; bromeliads, types of ferns, grass, small shrubs and a heap more. These can be planted straight into the ground. It’s also beneficial to grow edible plants in the enclosure. You can grow strawberries, blue berries, dandelion etc., all parts of the dandelion and they are easy to grow.

Squash of all kinds makes an easy and excellent additional staple veg. grated or cut up. Carrots also but as an occasional treat.

Other décor

You want to still have many branches and hollow logs etc. You can create waterfalls and place large rocks here and there to help mimic their natural environment. Remember water dragons like to rest on high branches and bask.

Lighting and heating

Lighting and heating is not needed in an outdoor set up. A basking bulb can be used but not necessary. You may want to fix a UVB tube to the roof of the enclosure as if you have used clearlite or something that will reduce the amount of UVB rays that get in.

Feeding

Water dragons should be offered a wide variety of foods for a healthy diet.

Some good foods are;

- Mealworms

- Crickets

- Wax moths

- Locusts

- Occasional pinky mice

- Low fat cat food - the casserole type, not pellets or jelly meat. avoid types with fish.

- Ox heart with fat and sinew removed.

- Shredded greens like dandelion - the whole plant can be used, not just the flowers, rocket and clover

- Fruits like strawberries, grated apple, raspberry, banana, and grated squash - a good and healthy way to bulk up salads

It is important to offer a mixture of fruit/vege and meat/insects at each meal time. A juveniles diet should be 60% meat/insects to 40% fruit/vege. An adults diet should be 60% fruit/vege to 40% meat/insects.

It's a good idea to add vitamins and calcium to their food. You can purchase vitamin and calcium powder from pet stores. This helps them get all the vitamins and minerals they need to stay healthy. Make sure you follow the manufacturers directions. Too much can be harmful!

I hope i have covered everything but this pretty sums up the basics of Australian water dragon care. Feel free to add to this or change if necessary:)

I live in Auckland, and have inherited a blue-tongued skink from my old flatmate. I've been caring for Bob for months now since his owner relocated out of Auckland, only coming home 1 night a week for work, and they have now moved away permanently, leaving Bob with me. I'm going to find him a great new home and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions?

I'm aware I can't sell him in Auckland. I am looking into giving him to someone with a great set-up that will give him fantastic care, or possibly relocating him to the Waikato to sell - I still need to look into whether the Auckland restrictions extend to the Waikato to see if this is an option. I'm considering selling him because 1. it can help discourage enquiries from people that may not have the means to care for him properly, and 2. I've spent a fair bit on upgrading his living situation (his old owner had no UVB and inadequate heat sources in his enclosure and wasn't planning on doing this, so I stepped in and purchased what he needed) so it would be great if possible to try and recoup some of those costs.

Does anyone know whether I can advertise him for sale south of Auckland, or have any suggestions on great facilities/herpetologists that can provide him with an ideal set-up? I'd love him to have a massive enclosure - he's very active since I got him a heat bulb & i think he'd love more space to do his thing

P.S. the plastic bin in the photo is NOT his home ? - it's just where I put him while cleaning his enclosure or for messy meals.